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Strong EMI/RF Noise from Battery on K-Bike


Autocom Matt

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Just a heads up... I was working on moving my electronics into a tank bag to make them easier to show off and demo when I discovered an odd phenomena with the K12S.

 

When the bike has the battery connected and is running, a large amount of electrical noise radiates from the battery compartment. When the battery is removed after starting the bike, the noise all but vanishes. Instinctively, this sounds like a noisy charging circuit. I'll test further, but individuals with a K1200S or K1200GT hoping to put any intercom in a tank bag may have an issue.

 

Any using this configuration?

 

By the way, an easy method of testing location for an intercom be it Autocom, Starcom1, or any other's is as follows:

 

Wire direct to battery with full length power lead. With no audio devices connected put helmet on. Move the intercom device itself around bike. This will help identify EMI which is entering the device directly. If the noise exists even when device is pulled away from bike then it is likely coming in through the power. For that source elimination or filtering is required.

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Dennis Andress

I've heard reports of the immobilizer ring around the ignition switch causing EMI problems with radar detectors.

 

On the S, I removed the gas tank and pulled a ground wire from one of the starter bolts to a terminal strip I mounted behind the ZFE. I got positive from the back of the accessory outlet, and ran it to the same terminal strip. The BMW accessory outlet is rated at 8 amps, which is enough to power the radar detector and Autocom. The Gerbings controller is wired directly to the positive pole of the alternator and the same starter bolt. I mounted the Autocom under the seat, in the right side "pod."

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Thanks. Never thought about the immobilizer ring. Mine worked great behind the ZFE as well. It doesn't make since why the immobilizer ring stays powered after bike is started. Oh well.

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I keep my Autocom unit in my tank bag on an 07 K1200GT. I only get a slight amount of electrical noise. My tank bag is a Bigmak bag where it sits on a swiveling bracket holding it an inch or so above the tank. Maybe that extra inch of separation holding it up off the tank helps.

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Thanks. From top of battery the Super Pro Automatic clears up at 2". Add panel and bag and it's probably a good spot.

 

During testing, I pulled tank, unhooked alternator and still got noise. Hooked alternator back up and left fuel pump unhooked. It appears most of the noise is coming from the fuel pump. I've added a 1000pF shunting capacitor to the 12v output going to the fuel pump.

 

This bike has the oddest fueling system I've seen in a while. There is a 3 conductor plug going to a module which outputs 12volts to the pump on demand. It appears that the pump controls fuel pressure this way rather than having a return line and pressure regulator.

 

I'm waiting on the liquid electrical tape to dry but will report back.

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I did not have any ceramic caps in my box so I used an electrolytic which isn't ideal for this application, but here is what I found:

 

The noise went shifted upwards in frequency and became much cleaner but also more annoying. I removed capacitor and may try again with another.

 

Thanks for the advice on the tankbag lifted up an inch. Unfortunatly, I have to be 4" or so up to get it completely quite. What I did find was that the front of the tank bag is much quieter than the rear.

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Dennis Andress

Thanks for the advice on the tankbag lifted up an inch. Unfortunatly, I have to be 4" or so up to get it completely quite. What I did find was that the front of the tank bag is much quieter than the rear.

 

That makes me wonder if the fuel pump is the source of your noise....

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Turns out, it is the fuel pump module. No fiddling with that one. Off to shielding or relocating...

 

I'm adding a scope to my shop supplies so I may build a probe and pinpoint it, but right now I'm just going to put my system back together.

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Dennis Andress
Turns out, it is the fuel pump module. No fiddling with that one. Off to shielding or relocating...

 

I'm adding a scope to my shop supplies so I may build a probe and pinpoint it, but right now I'm just going to put my system back together.

 

Interesting. I have the tupperware off my bike while I install a HID light and rework the Autocom install. If I have the chance, I'll see if my fuel pump causes the same noise.

 

Dennis

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Thanks a bunch. You verifying could help many others. My noise is loudest when autocom is over battery and close. Make sure to turn volume up high.

 

Interesting. I have the tupperware off my bike while I install a HID light and rework the Autocom install. If I have the chance, I'll see if my fuel pump causes the same noise.

Dennis

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I just did some aditional testing...

 

Even with a Logic running on batteries, I'm picking up EMI near either batter cable and the top of the battery.

 

Hints for offering intercom advise, I'm going to write a more in depth guide to troubleshooting intercoms, but...

 

* No source connected = No ground loops

* Running on batteries = Don't need power line filter

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Dennis Andress

I wasn't able to pick up any noise. All the tupperware was off, I had the radar detector connected and an unterminated cable in the mp3 plug. The radio cords were connected too, but no radio. I held the Autocom unit above the gas tank, battery, and immobilizer ring. No noise. I am, however, using an older Autocom -- an Active 7.

 

Dennis

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I ordered a Shorai battery which is only 4" tall. I'm going to test and see if noise went away. If not, I'll extend battery leads to bottom of box, flip battery and the 5" of seperation will be enough to cut out most noise.

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