2003 K1200GT Issues?

[cpr1200r]

Im thinkng of buying//trading for a 2003 K 1200GT with 93,000, yes 93,000 miles.

 

What problems can I expect? I know a lot of potential issues are dependent upon service to date.

 

Maybe a better question What should I look for? Valvle Job, Alternator? Final Drive? Water Pump? Clutch?

[tallman]

Rear seal failure can lead to clutch replacement and other seals should be done then too.

Mine went at @62,000 miles.

Only problem I have had.

77,000 but my riding has been cutailed greatly the past several years.

May have had the ECU replaced if it had cold throttle issues.

 

Fairly bullet proof evolution of the flying brick.

 

Any bike can have individual failures but not much wrt FD on these.

Tires wear quicker than the boxer, in general.

Valves tend to stay in OK range, in general.

 

Some revisions to original service periods and I think they've extended time intervals for coolant.

Outstanding brakes, IMO.

Smooth runner, too easy to cruise thru small town in 2nd gear, roll out and oops, north of posted and still 2nd gear.

Plenty of output for extra lights, heated gear etc.

We do 2 pairs Gerbings gloves, 2 GErbings heated jacket liners, heated seat, running lights, XM/Autocom and more w/out issue.

Smaller tank than most of the boxers equals shorter range, but mine (an '03) is quicker than the new R1200 RT/ST, not bad for an older lady.

Can ride fast in the twisties but takes more work to do so than the above boxers.

I rode boxers for 35 years and love 'em.

Got the K and have had no regrets.

Best wishes.

[cpr1200r]

Thanks.

 

The 93,000 miles has frightened all away. I can trade an 02 Falco with 15,000 miles...that has been retired thanks to my 07 R1200R. At the end of 08 I had 7,000 miles on the R, I now have 41,000 and on track for 17,000+/- miles this year.

[tallman]

I've seen bricks w/more miles than that.

Most ran well.

Like anything, check it out.

 

Even sinking some $$$ into it is a lot less than a new K and the classic ones don't have the mapping/switchgear and other such issues.

[hmeiseles]

The real question you should be asking is what is the service record on this bike and what is the status of recalls. These bikes other than normal maintenance were pretty bulletproof. If the clutch fluid is very near the top of reservoir then you clutch may be a worn. Additionally, check the condition of normal service items like the brakes. I had a 2003 KRS, which was the same bike without the painted bags, barbacks, heated seat and electric window. I had mine for almost 70,000 miles and it is still a great bike. They are a good long distance bike.

 

 

[Dennis Andress]

They are awesome bikes. Enjoy.

 

I posted this last year. It's a howto for the common problems I had. (Are you a wrench?)

 

New plug wires are always a good thing, except for the price.

 

Find the crankcase vent hose. It should be just aft and slightly inboard of the #4 throttle body. It's a short and crocked hose that leads from the engine to the airbox. They are notorious for tearing and sucking air.

 

Open and clean every electrical connector under the tank. The injection system works with very low voltages and even a small resistance drop will change it's performance.

 

Remove, clean, and replace the throttle bodies. While at it, remove and reseal (new o'rings) the little intake tubes that lead from the throttle bodies to the head. There's an O'Ring under there that can also suck air. Same for the intake tubes. Inspect them for cracks and tears. Replace as needed. Be aware that spraying carb cleaner into the #4 throttle body will cause gunk to flow into the Throttle Position Sensor, which is attached to the end of the throttle shaft. You should remove the TPS first. Record some resistance measurements before removing so you can put it back on right. I once had a 91 KRS and could quote the TPS adjustment from rote. Today, the best I can do is this link to IBMWR's mail archive. Don't turn the idle stop screw or any of the synch adjusters between each throttle body. If you take the TPS off, cleaning it with a good contact cleaner is okay. (Test first to make sure the cleaner doesn't dissolve the plastic of the TPS.)

 

Search "K Bikes" for my name and the word "throttle" and one of the results describes how to set the TPS

 

Oh, I had one other problem, which the extended warranty paid for...

[NCStephen]

I can only speak for may experience. I hope this offers some helpful insight into your decision With a solid endorsement from an overview of a mechanic and a very fair price, I would not worry about the 95,000 miles. Do get an overview by a knowledgeable place just to understand what wear issues you are facing. It is a great bike. You will have some expenses. Still I haven't even considered selling mine unless it was for a younger version of it. But at this point I don't feel the need due to wear.

 

My RS will roll over to 85,000 this week and 100,000 by next summer. It uses from full in the oil sight glass to bottom in 10,000 miles when I change the oil, using synthetic since 18,000. It is doing so well that I just spent the money to upgrade suspension. Yes I expect there to be FD issues at some point. Other issues will surface as well. I am sure a clutch will be needed in the next year as well (or it would seem reasonable for that by 110,000) For what I do I do not have another BMW in sight to replace it. There are some others I want but none seem to cover my needs as well as this one. Here is a thumbnail overview I posted to another new comer with questions..

 

He smelled gas, make sure your quick disconnects have been updated.

He also asked about his rear disk was always warm while the fronts were cool.

 

"I have an 03 K-RS so the brakes are linked and servo assisted.

 

My rear caliper is always warm. Rear pads wear to replacement between 15-18,000 miles for me. 95% of my stopping is with front brake which is linked and uses the rear. Fronts pads were replaced at 50,000 miles and were 2/3 worn. When I spin the rear wheel I can hear the pads scrubbing a little. Bike is at 84,000 now and has been to the same mechanic since 8,000. He says not to worry and that my pad wear rate is pretty much in the ball part with other K-RS/GTs of my model.

 

For yours, make sure it isn't truly binding by seeing if the rear wheel spins relatively easy. Also make sure YOU aren't letting your toes ride on top of the brake pedal rather than the pegs.

 

I would like for the caliper to retract more but it hasn't been worth the $$ and time to fix something others say really isn't broke.

 

The gas smell you sense may not be quick disconnects. I was helping remove body parts off a 98 RS the other night and noticed just simple connectors and wraps at the junctions. My friend said he thought that was common on this vintage of RS. He thought that the bad disconnects came on later models. (just hearsay at this point).

 

Tires, what I found for MY BIKE AND MY RIDING (I commute 400-500 miles a week)

 

Metzler z6, front 12,000 miles, rear 9-11,000 No real complaints. Pull to right very noticeable. Heavy feeling tire but best straightline stability 36 f 42 r At end of life the wear pattern gets very strange on rear, but only in the last 1000 miles

 

Michelin PR2s A more agile tire, front 10,000 rear 10,000. A little less straight line stability but pull to right almost gone. The profile of the tire tends to make the bike want to fall into turns at slower speeds Use the "B" version of the rear tire as it is designed for the weight of our bikes. (slightly stiffer carcass) Front tire gets little heart shape ridges on it after 4000 miles. Doesn't get worse or handle bad, just hums a little more when a little off vertical 35 f 38r

 

Dunlop Q2s, My favorites. Makes the bike feel more neutral and responsive. The bike really can be moved into a nice line easier. The tires have more tread area than the bike has lean room. (even with knee down and pegs worn down, still have a little more space to edge of usable tread) I can barely coax 6,000 out of the rear. Front usually has some reserve wear left when I change the set. Watch for deals you can get a set for about 210-225) Downside, if you have hands off bars, at 40-50 you can coax a front wobble but putting a light hand back on bars easily stops that. Hands on bars you never feel it.

(I discussed Michelin Pilot Powers with several vendors. They said the Dunlop Q2 is a better choice for our RSs as the tires have a stiffer carcass and can handle the wt of the bike better and still run sporty tire pressures. 35f 34r (31/31 track) (Consult with Dunlop Factory Rep said not to use these as winter tires (below 50 F))

 

Dunlop Roadsmarts. I tried these last winter as I like the Q2s so much. They handled well, did all I ask of them wore well, all in all a good tire. Not has heavy as the Z6s, a slightly different feel than the PR2s, more pull to the right than the PR2s, less than the Z6s However I am uncertain about them. It is time for a set of tires this week and I have a set of Q2s waiting. So come January I will put on a set of tires for the winter. I am undecided about this. Fr 35, r 38 -40. front 7,500 miles rear 9,500

 

side note, MY RS has a pull to the right. I typical put a bit more things in the left bag and that balances it out. the PR2s were by far the easiest to balance for a straight ride. (Was recently told of fix from this site. with 180/55 tire removing shim may cause tire to rub)

 

Suspension.

MY EXPERIENCE

I found that I was most satisfied with mine with 3/4 preload and 5/8 dampening on the rear.

There were times when I felt mine was really becoming worn but then would find tire pressures out of line. Once that was corrected bike would settle easily into turns. Rear was replaced at 50,000 miles with an OEM take off from a bike with 5,000 ($150). A that time I was just starting to feel a little unsettledness over undulating pavement. (I rode a friends RT with 38,000 miles and it felt like I was in an old buick with worn shocks. -They were replaced very soon after that It was VERY DIFFERENT from mine. I say that as different machines and parts age differently) I then replaced the set at 78,000 miles. I raised the bike 1/2 inch as well. It really did make a difference but it is an expensive change ( I plan on keeping the bike another 2-3 yrs so that will run 80,000 to 140,000 miles)

The OEM rear shock is rebuildable by a firm in Canada for about 400 when you feel that time comes."

 

And then about use and wear and repairs.

 

"My 03 K-RS had rear seal and clutch replaced by the second owner at 7800 miles in Jan 07 after having only been ridden 800 miles in the previous 30 months. I bought it in Oct 08 with 7900 miles and a gummed up fuel pump. It now has 85,000 miles. No other real failures. A Caliper did fail after some mechanical work on it. The rear pivot bushings have been replaced and I just replaced suspension. Synthetic oil has been used since 18,000 miles. Oil changes are at 10,000 miles now and it will go from the top of the glass to the bottom in that distance, not much oil usage at all. Annual services are usually between 25,000 -30,000 miles.

 

I ride it often with revs at 6-9000 and still occasionally will bump the rev limiter. It does a few track days each year. It also does many miles on the interstate at 80 mph (4600 rpm). If in twisties I will ride it with rpms steady between 5000 and 7000. It is easy enough to drag a knee / pegs

 

The seals at the final drive weep a little now and the boot gets misty grungy every few thousand miles. I use engine braking all the time with front brake just at the end of slowing down or in setting up a turn.

 

All that said, my other characteristic is that for many I am a bit conservative in my riding. I don't WOT between every turn or from stop light to stop light. The cruise control on straight roads in my friend. (I usually get 10,000 miles out of PR2s or similar tires or 6,000 out of Dunlop Q2s -favorites)

 

I have another friend with an 04 GT that now has a little under 50,000 and he has had two final drive rebuilds. go figure.........."

 

 

Oh just remembered I did have the distribution rail replaced this summer (runs behind the throttle bodies) as the rubber and plastic pieces were starting to crumble if moved.

 

[Fasterpill]

Runs on 93 octane, gets 42mpg at sea level (the RS model anyway), more at altitude with the lower octane gas. My rear seal has seeped very slowly with no probs yet at 63K. I keep it topped off.

 

I love this bike. Had it since 2004 with no plans to replace. I had a fuel disconnect blow and repaired it with hose clamps that have never failed since.