Anyone ever not love their new shocks?

[kelly1005]

I've put about 27k miles on my '04RT and while I don't think the shocks are worn out... the archives about aftermarket shock setups has got me thinking. All I've seen seems to indicate that even bikes without worn stock units benifit from aftermarket upgrades. I'm wondering though, has anyone ever done a swap from stock to 3rd party and gone "humph, seems the same to me"?

 

90% of my riding these days is commuting, and when I do get to go play it's either 1-up in the twisties or a multi-day jaunt to somewhere involving a lot of slab. I've never had a passenger on the RT, and only occasionally run with full bags. I'm 174lbs with gear. I'm wondering if I'll be one of those who drops the big $$$ and doesn't notice anything?

 

(I'm really hoping I'm wrong )

[Paul Mihalka]

As you have 27K miles on a '04 bike, you ride a fair amount. If you plan to keep your bike, good after-market shocks are a good deal even if you would not notice a ride difference (but you will!). Aftermarket shocks are repairable usually at 150/200 dollars a shock, instead of having to buy a new one every time it wears out.

[Ken H.]

There are certainly people who's demands on the bike are adequately met by the factory suspension. For whatever the reason. Just because it's a popular thing to do, doesn't mean everyone should do it. Especially given how high dollar of an upgrade it is. Will you notice a difference? Almost certainly. Will it be a $US1200 positive difference to you? Hard to say.

 

At 27K that is right in the borderline area for the factory ones. But it depends upon what kind of a 'life' they've lead too. Pretty easy commuter 1-up stuff, or fully loaded aggressive 2-up stuff for 27K?

 

I think most people finally drop the bucks for a new suspension when the finally get to the point where, 'I just can't take this anymore.' The characteristics of the bike have gotten so bad, or they have caught up to the bike so to speak, that they decide to do something about it. If I read between the lines a bit it seems you may not be there yet. The factory suspension is meeting your needs? In which case if it isn't broke don't fix it? On the other hand Xmas IS coming!

[Tool Man]

"humph, seems the same to me"?

 

Nope

 

 

If I read between the lines a bit it seems you may not be there yet. The factory suspension is meeting your needs? In which case if it isn't broke don't fix it.

 

I think Ken may be on target with his assumption, not only with you , but other riders who are in question, should I make the plunge because everyone else is. I've gone on record here many times and I'll say it again, "the stock Showa shocks that RT's are equipped with are junk". There nothing more than a spring holder.

 

Now keep in mind that's my opinion, and I base my opinion on my riding experiences over the years. In the past I've purchased the shock before the bike has arrived.

 

What I suggest is that for the next several outings on your RT is to pay very close attention to what the bike is doing under you. Be as critical and anylitical as you can. Is the bike harsh over ripples and not absorbing the series of bumps. Does the bike pogo stick or continue to oscillate down the highway after going through a rise and fall (like an old Studebaker). Does it remain stable mid turn if you roll over and imperfection in the road.

 

If it handles the tests you put it through to your satisfaction and your riding style, then you aren't pushing the suspension into the level that other riders do.

 

If it wallows and doesn't keep you steady during any of the manuevers you put it through, then you would need to think about an aftermarket shock. And as Ken says, Santa's on his way.

 

You don't need a new shock just because alot of people change them. You only need it if your riding level takes you into that zone. I am willing to bet, if you rode an RT properly set up for your weight and the damping set up for your riding situation, you WILL feel a difference. The question is, Is it enough of a difference for you to shell out close to 1200 bucks for. For me yes, for others....maybe no.

[oreana123]

This is exactly the situation I am in, will it be worth the money. Tool Man describes the problems I am experiencing exactly: when cornering at high speeds, any bumps in the road causes a wallowing sensation that is very disconcerting. My R1100R is a fun bike except for this characteristic. I have 33K on the odometer, but I am thinking its time for a new suspension. John S

[kelly1005]

Does it remain stable mid turn if you roll over and imperfection in the road.

 

This is the one I notice every morning. I've found myself going slower and slower around on/off ramps because any little bump really upsets the bike. I'm really afraid it's going to bounce me right off the road. One of the big ramps was just repaved last week and I can fly around that thing, but it's glass smooth still too.

 

 

If it wallows and doesn't keep you steady during any of the manuevers you put it through, then you would need to think about an aftermarket shock.

 

OK, I'm thinking.

 

And as Ken says, Santa's on his way.

 

I've been working on my "Christmas is only for kids" thing for a few years now. I'm very close to making it stick, I really don't want to start over just because of a set of shocks.

 

I am willing to bet, if you rode an RT properly set up for your weight and the damping set up for your riding situation, you WILL feel a difference.

 

Mine actually is setup, or was about 17k miles ago. I went to a local BMW shop that was having a "suspension setup clinic" and had them set it up for me the best they could. I noticed a little improvement after that, but that was a lot of miles ago.

[kelly1005]

Just because it's a popular thing to do, doesn't mean everyone should do it.

 

If I wanted to the popular thing, I think I would have to switch to riding a GS!

 

At 27K that is right in the borderline area for the factory ones. But it depends upon what kind of a 'life' they've lead too. Pretty easy commuter 1-up stuff, or fully loaded aggressive 2-up stuff for 27K?

 

Never 2-up, but not always easy commuting too. I always seem to get more mileage out of things than others (tires, brakes, etc) so I'm pretty sure I'm on the easy side of the spectrum.

[Deadboy]

I have had the same question before (on my 2000) and now that my 04 has just over 28K I will admit wondering again if new shocks would be worth the money. On the plus side I cannot imagine they will not make some improvement and I know I can always sell them for a large % of the original cost when the time comes....on the minus side I have ridden 2 RT's with high dollar shocks and frankly I just didn't notice a difference which surprised me. I am no stranger to "pushing it" but suspect that either I just didn't push the borrowed bikes enough or the stock suspension on my bike isn't worn out enough for new shocks to be that much better. The day I switched from my 2000 to my 2004 I expected to see some big change (the 2000 had approx. 25K) but did not notice an improvement. Frankly I think lots of folks make the switch and either had really bad shocks prior to the switch or push it very, very hard, or just are more "in tune" with the subtle difference it makes or just refuse to admit they just spent over $1,000.00 on something they didn’t really need? I have asked numerous “gurus” about this and they seem equally split. Some switch the shocks the first day and other go for much farther than my current mileage on the stock shocks and report no problems…..

 

Having said all that I would probably go with replacement stock shocks, which seem to come up for sale regularly here for much less than the dealer would want....

[RFW]

Aftermarket shocks are repairable usually at 150/200 dollars a shock, instead of having to buy a new one every time it wears out.

 

That may be a little high in some cases. My Works shock may not by any means be the best thing out there, but all the parts needed for a rebuild (including 3 springs) cost just under $100. A seal kit, for example, is less than $20.

 

This is easily a do-it-yourself thing (I did). All you need is a simple spring compressor (I made mine). Once rebuilt, you just trot the shock over to a bike dealer and get them to refill it with nitrogen ($10 to $25).

 

A simple job.

 

Bob.

[baggerchris]

I would do it. I have a 1997 Harley flstc that was really ho humm in the ride department, as Harleys are want to be. (it tended to wallow in the corners like a hippo in mud. I put a pair of Progressive's on old Smokey and I cannot tell you what a difference it made. Just the addition of those new shocks made the bike handle much better than a new bike. I think from what I have read here over the years that YOU will notice a similar difference on your RT, only not as great, because I am sure BMW shocks start off better than Harley shocks. If I had known what a diffence they were going to make, I would have put them on when the bike was new.(as some suggested I do.)

[Ken H.]

This is the one I notice every morning. I've found myself going slower and slower around on/off ramps because any little bump really upsets the bike. I'm really afraid it's going to bounce me right off the road.

Well let's keep one thing in mind too, the compression damping on the factory rear shock is adjustable. Too harsh a rear end can be too much pre-load and/or damping too.

 

Don't get me wrong, I'm not necessarily defending the Showa shocks, I agree with Mike's assessment that they are very utilitarian at best. I'm just saying make sure your problem can't be solved with a 1/4 turn of a screw driver first!

[Ken H.]

If I wanted to the popular thing, I think I would have to switch to riding a GS!

Ouch! That's going to leave a mark.

[leikam]

New shocks are like new tires. By the time you're considering them, your old ones are probably not going to compare favorably to any new or rebuilt shock. Putting new shocks on is going to make a good impression, almost by default.

[russell_bynum]

Well let's keep one thing in mind too, the compression damping on the factory rear shock is adjustable. Too harsh a rear end can be too much pre-load and/or damping too.

 

The stock rear shock has adjustable rebound damping and adjustable spring preload, but not adjustable compression damping.

[Tool Man]

Mine actually is setup, or was about 17k miles ago. I went to a local BMW shop that was having a "suspension setup clinic" and had them set it up for me the best they could. I noticed a little improvement after that, but that was a lot of miles ago.

 

Ok, that said and from your previous replys we can presume you know what the "feel" or lack there of under your posterior

 

You can set up a stock shock as best as possible for your weight, ride height static sag and all that buisness, but what do you have? You still have an inferior mass produced shock that BMW chose to put on their machine of this caliber. Sorry state of affairs if ya ask me to save a little manufacturing cost. Some folks have sent their OEM shocks out for revalving which they feel is suitable for them. Personally I think it's a waste of time and money. You still have a crappy shock that's been cut open and tinkered with.

 

If you could see what goes on inside of a shock, or any suspension for that matter, you will see it's a fairly sophisticated network of hydraulics. A shock absorber's main function is to control the mass of the load and spring compression and rebound rate over time. It's all done internally with valving and piston to direct fluid when and where. The more sophisticated or precise if you will, the internals are and the ability to fine tune the fluid rates, the better response you are going to experience.

 

It doesn't matter who you choose, Ohlins, Works, Wilbers etc. they're all good, and definately better than OEM.

 

Installation on the RT is a simple job that can be accomplished with simple hand tools. Down time for front & rear is about an hour. Setting them up takes some time, patience and plenty of note taking.

[kelly1005]

If I wanted to the popular thing, I think I would have to switch to riding a GS!

Ouch! That's going to leave a mark.

 

Hey, I put a in there!

[kelly1005]

It doesn't matter who you choose, Ohlins, Works, Wilbers etc. they're all good, and definately better than OEM.

 

Guess I'll wander down to the dealer and see what options they've got. Can't hurt to learn more.

 

Installation on the RT is a simple job that can be accomplished with simple hand tools. Down time for front & rear is about an hour.

 

I was wondering about that. I've yet to do any real work on my RT (other than pulling the radio out and putting the tail light modulator in) and was wondering how much shop time I would have to buy to get them to install the shocks. Do the wheels come off or just the plastic?

[Tool Man]

 

 

Guess I'll wander down to the dealer and see what options they've got. Can't hurt to learn more.

 

 

For Gods sakes man do not buy shocks from the dealer

 

Your in the S.F. bay area and just an hour ride into Seaside where Kyle Racing is located. He's the biggest Ohlins distributor this side of the Rockies. He'll ask all the questions to be sure you get the right spring for your weight and riding habits. He can install them for you too if you don't want to be bothered with it.

[SpaceKing]

Installation on the RT is a simple job that can be accomplished with simple hand tools. Down time for front & rear is about an hour.

I asked my dealer what the time was for installation for front and rear, and he said rear about half and hour and the front two and a half to three? Is this right? Sounds pretty steep at 75 per hour.

Beno

[SWB]

At 27K that is right in the borderline area for the factory ones. But it depends upon what kind of a 'life' they've lead too. Pretty easy commuter 1-up stuff, or fully loaded aggressive 2-up stuff for 27K?

 

Are the shocks on the RTP's different than the OEM for the civilian version? I heard that the Authority bikes had "heavy duty suspension". I've got 54K on mine, and know the shocks are "not good". I was trying to adjust the rear, and couldn't figure out the Clymer instructions, i.e. they referred to a scale that wasn't visable on my bike's shock. I asked the dealer service manager about it, and he reached down and gave the adjuster about 3-4 counterclockwise turns, and said "this must of been set up for a 'big boy'; the setting was maxed out". I'm 250 lbs, and thought to myself "big boy?? what's 'big'"?

 

So, what with the old shocks and casual adjustment method of the dealer, my impression of sub-par handling maybe more fact than myth. My weight and the age of the shocks probably mean that $1200 in new, dialed in suspension parts would pay off big.

 

Now, if I can just convince Mrs. Claus of that.

[Ken H.]

he said <snip> the front two and a half to three? Is this right?

They may be going by a book rate number, but you'd have to be pretty slow to actually take that long. You do have to slid back the tank to get to the top bolt, so the front one is a bit longer to do.

[Ken H.]

he reached down and gave the adjuster about 3-4 counterclockwise turns, and said "this must of been set up for a 'big boy'; the setting was maxed out". I'm 250 lbs, and thought to myself "big boy?? what's 'big'"?

At 250 lbs. I would think you're going to need pretty much all it's got. I would be surprised that backing off the pre-load helps you much.

So, what with the old shocks and casual adjustment method of the dealer,

"Casual" is the right word indeed. To properly set the pre-load you have to actually measure and calculate the rear suspension static and loaded sag. Did you see a tape measure anywhere in one of his hands!?!

[SWB]

he reached down and gave the adjuster about 3-4 counterclockwise turns, and said "this must of been set up for a 'big boy'; the setting was maxed out". I'm 250 lbs, and thought to myself "big boy?? what's 'big'"?

At 250 lbs. I would think you're going to need pretty much all it's got. I would be surprised that backing off the pre-load helps you much.

So, what with the old shocks and casual adjustment method of the dealer,

"Casual" is the right word indeed. To properly set the pre-load you have to actually measure and calculate the rear suspension static and loaded sag. Did you see a tape measure anywhere in one of his hands!?!

 

No .. guess he used "Wrenchman's eye" to make the adjustment.

 

I'll have to look around for directions on dialing in a suspension. Of course, about the best I can probably do is crank it down as tight as I can, until I can afford to spring for new springs (e.g. shocks). I've read where guys are claiming that even aftermarket shocks are about spent after 25K miles, and due for a rebuild. At twice that on my RTP, they're probably toast. I wonder what an RT is actually supposed to ride like?

[BucksTherapy]

It doesn't matter who you choose, Ohlins, Works, Wilbers etc. they're all good, and definately better than OEM.

 

There is one other option. Although this option is normally criticized I am becoming convinced by second hand experience that it should be considered.

 

There is a shop www.brunos.us that will re-valve, re-spring to your weight and riding style, freshen seals and fluids, and do the job for about a quarter of the cost of a pair of Ohlins. I am told by others that the improvement is dramatic. Apparently the secret is in the higher quality, progressive spring in combination with the re-jetting.

 

It is hard to know how they compare with Ohlins as I have yet to find anyone who has not liked them and upgraded the rebuilt shocks with aftermarket.

 

I am going to send my shocks off my 02 RT to him this winter and will be in a better positoin to comment in the spring.

 

...Yet another option...

[Tool Man]

Bob,

We're all well aware of the availabilty and service offered by suspension modifier's such as your link and Lindeman as well. As I stated earlier in this string of posts, My feeling is that while there may be some noticable improvement with valve modifications and a spring change, what you still have is a modified stock shock, nothing more. Usually a change of fluid wt. and volume along with a passage control modification such as stacking more valving to modify the fluid path. I can tell you this though, for the money they charge for this service your not getting a machined specifically for that shock design damping rod with passage routes and piston assembly engineered for that shock either. Nor will you have the precision which to tune your "modified" shock as you would with the before mentioned aftermarket shocks which are designed for the best possible adjustability and reliabilty for the consumer.

 

As also stated earlier in this thread, is that for some riders who aren't to the skill level to notice or may not pay attention to what the bike is doing beneath them, maybe shouldn't spend their money on aftermarket shocks until their ready or capable of noticing the difference.

 

Having said that, make your decision to save a few bucks and have nothing more than a modified stock shock, or get the real deal.

[SWB]

It doesn't matter who you choose, Ohlins, Works, Wilbers etc. they're all good, and definately better than OEM.

 

There is one other option. Although this option is normally criticized I am becoming convinced by second hand experience that it should be considered.

 

There is a shop www.brunos.us that will re-valve, re-spring to your weight and riding style, freshen seals and fluids, and do the job for about a quarter of the cost of a pair of Ohlins. I am told by others that the improvement is dramatic. Apparently the secret is in the higher quality, progressive spring in combination with the re-jetting.

 

It is hard to know how they compare with Ohlins as I have yet to find anyone who has not liked them and upgraded the rebuilt shocks with aftermarket.

 

I am going to send my shocks off my 02 RT to him this winter and will be in a better positoin to comment in the spring.

 

...Yet another option...

 

Wrote to the proprietor for more info, and he said he only rebuilds the rear (R1100RT), that my only option for the front shocks were after-market.