Need help with front wheel removal

[Willie]

Does anyone have a link that will show me how to remover the wheels from my '02 RT and show how to mount tires on the rims? I am thinking of tackling this task myself. Local Honda/Yamaha etc dealer won't touch a BMW and won't change tires for me unless I have the same tires front and rear. Other way to go is the BMW dealership and leave it there, but then I need to get a ride back if they don't have a loaner. Thanks, Terry

[leikam]

Do you have the tools to change tires and balance the wheel after you've changed the tire? This is something you can do yourself, but I wouldn't recommend it without the right equipment. However, simply removing the wheels is much easier and I've found that bike shops will often give you a much better rate if you bring them the wheels (with the old tires on them) and the new rubber. Perhaps its worth asking your BMW shop for a rate on this?

[Willie]

I don't have any... yet. I would get the proper tools if I choose to do the job. The shop will give me a better deal if I just bring in the wheel. Any help with the front wheel removal? Thanks, Terry

[Ken H.]

This drawing gives a general overview of removal of the wheel. Note that the calipers must be removed first.

 

 

ISFA changing your own tires, at the minimum you must have access to tire changing and balancing equipment. One, but certainly not the only solution I recently posted about here - NoMar Tire Changer

[UberXY]

The owners manual covers front wheel removal. Rear, too.

[russell_bynum]

Check out the Oilhead Maintenance Manual over on iBMWR.org for complete instructions on how to remove the wheels.

 

If you're chaning your own tires, You can get as fancy or as basic as you want. Bare minimum, you'll need 2-3 tire irons, some bits of plastic milk jug cut up to act as rim protectors, and a 2X10 to use as a bead breaker. At the other end of the spectrum you can get the automatic changers that the shops use.

 

There are several options in between including a unit from Harbor Freight that you'll need to modify and/or purchase extra parts to prevent it from scratching your rims, and the NoMar changer than Ken posted. (Both work on the same idea, but the NoMar already has all of the bits added to prevent rim damage.)

 

As for balancing...check out the Marc Parnes balancer. I've seen it used many times and it's a quality unit. Marc's a good guy, too.

 

But to be honest...and don't tell anyone this or they'll make me turn in my roundel and spend eternity in the slow lane behind an old VW microbus...but I don't balance my tires. I've never bothered to do it, and never had problems....and that includes the track bike which has seen 160mph with absolutely no problems.

[Willie]

Thanks guys. Think I have everything I need to know now. Looks like I need to get some good tire irons. Not sure what I am going to do about balancing yet. I wish the Parnes balancer was more universal. Then I could just get one to use on all three bikes. Terry

[Wooster]

I wish the Parnes balancer was more universal. Then I could just get one to use on all three bikes.

 

Terry, Parnes' balancer works for all bikes though you mite need extra cone; I use it on air/oil heads and have another cone for my XR.

You'd benefit greatly watching these steps, wheel removal, tire change/balance. Some tricks include rocking brake calipers, prying open pads to help w/removal; after removing valve stems, soapy water around rim/tire helps "pop bead"; lastly, it's imperative to get tire's edges down into the rim's center before you can lever'em off. Balancing, in spite of daredevil Russell's nonhabit, is what most mortals do.

 

Wooster

 

oh yes, rockymountainmc sells trick tire irons with ergonomic grips

[Ken/OC]

Try here.

[eakins]

to get the brake calipers past the rotors & rims you need to open the master cyl top cap, then push the brake pads outwards to make room.

[David Sharpe]

The directions talk about a high volume air compressor. I have a $40 electric compressor to fill the tires. Will this do?

[FlyingFinn]

It might. After mounting the new tires you need to get the bead to set on the wheel. Sometimes this requires good volume of air "dumped" into the tire. Before the bead mounts, the air can blow by the tire and slow inflation will not work. But then again, sometimes the tire is pretty tight right away and it can be filled up slowly (like a $40 compressor will do) to seat the bead.

 

If your compressor is too slow for the job, just take the wheels to closest gas station and pop the beads there. Then you can fine tune the pressure at home.

 

--

Mikko

[Stan Walker]

pop the beads

 

WATCH YOUR FINGERS, it would hurt like "h#ll" to pop the bead onto them. Also watch your eyes, wear eye protection or turn your head away.

 

Stan

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

pop the beads

 

WATCH YOUR FINGERS, it would hurt like "h#ll" to pop the bead onto them.

 

"hurt" doesn't quite cover it; I'm thinking more like "severe crush injuries requiring an ER visit and possible amputation." If you're bracing the wheel with your hand(s), keep all of your fingers on the tread surface and away from the bead/rim gap when seating the beads.

[Pilgrim]

pop the beads

 

WATCH YOUR FINGERS, it would hurt like "h#ll" to pop the bead onto them. Also watch your eyes, wear eye protection or turn your head away.

 

Stan

 

What Mitch said goes, also. In any case, you, too, could have an entry on my website HERE.

Pilgrim

[Stan Walker]

Great read.....

 

Glad my name isn't on there..... yet.....

 

Stan