Questions about 1200GS preloads

[mistercindy]

I'm confused about the setting of preloads on the 1200GS. I want to set it for about 3/4 on the hard side for rear, and a bit on the soft side for front as I weigh 235 lbs, and I'm trying to stop some high wind highway buffetting. My riding is, for the foreseeable future, exclusively street. The owner's manual gives directions, and I can easily find the knob for the rear preload, and the notched preload where I use the wrench for the front. But I have quesions:

 

Front preload:

 

First of all, the manual speaks of nine settings, but I swear there are ten. I physically moved my finger around it and counted ten, not nine. Secondly, the manual talks about 9 being for off-road setting, and 1 being for slab type riding. But (if there are nine settings instead of 10), how can you tell which is #1, and which is #9? The notches go in a complete circle with no apparent markings of which notch is which. Am I missing a marking of some kind that tells me where the setting is?

 

Rear preload:

 

1. First, the soft setting. Again, the manual is simple: for the lowest (softest?) position, turn the nob counterclockwise as far as it will go, then turn it "ten clicks clockwise." But after turning it counterclockwise all the way, I can barely hear or detect a click, and they don't seem to click consistantly. In other words, I'll hear a click after a half turn, then after a turn and one-half, etc... So frankly, I don't think I have a clue where the setting is.

 

2. Secondly, the manual says to turn as far as it will go clockwise for the highest (hardest?) setting. That's simple enough, but the turning of the knob goes on for such a long time that its nearly impossible to know where you are on the scale of soft to hard. Or is there some numerical or visual sliding scale that I'm not seeing.

 

Anybody else experience these problems? Or am I missing something? Sorry if this seems like a stupid question, but I'm a bit stumped.

[ShovelStrokeEd]

I'm not gonna be a big help here as I think at 235 lbs, you probably need different springs on both ends of the bike to ever hope to get your suspension right. Preload is not a substitute for proper spring rate.

 

Now, let's look at that front shock. A careful look around will find a cam shape somewhere on there with detents at the various steps. As you turn the adjuster, you are climbing the stairs of these detents. The detent farthest from the spring is the hardest (max preload) setting. You should be able to determine the direction you need to go by looking at the direction of the 'stairs'. You could just turn one way or another till it won't go anymore or makes a big jump toward easy to turn. Either way, you should be at the lowest setting.

 

Rear shock. The detents are sometimes hard to feel. I haven't played with a 1200 rear shock but have on my 1150 and my 1100S. At your weight with the stock spring your gonna want to go full clockwise and then back off maybe 2 turns. Add the 2 turns back for full bags.

 

Again, a set of shocks with replaceable springs and spring rates proper for your weight will make a world of difference.

[fisherman]

As I just bought a 1200GS, I would hope that my (your) dealer should do this.

[Ken H.]

Rear - The "click" count really begins after the first "click." In other words there is some number of rotations of the knob before it begins to apply pre-load. That point is your starting point. But as Ed said, at your weight your going to need pretty much all it's got. Crank it down tight. Then after riding a bit it seems too harsh experiment with backing it off one full rotation at a time.

 

Front - Rotating the collar counter-clockwise as you look at it from the bottom works your way up the steps, increasing the pre-load. "#1" being the bottom, sofest, "#9 (or #10) being the hardest. For your weight I'd suggest starting on about the 4th or 5th stair-step up and experiment from there.

 

It seems to be true the 12GS is a bit more stable on the street if the front is a bit softer than the rear.

[Kbasa]

It seems to be true the 12GS is a bit more stable on the street if the front is a bit softer than the rear.

 

Mine was much more stable after I took a click out of the front end and added a couple to the rear. It helped to turn the damping screw up a bit too.

[Tool Man]

I think at 235 lbs, you probably need different springs on both ends of the bike to ever hope to get your suspension right. Preload is not a substitute for proper spring rate.

 

That's right,

BMW figures the average male rider is 175# and that's what they spring there crappy OEM Showa shocks with.

 

To get your proper dimensions of sag, ride hieght etc. and the most out of the bike's handling you may want to think about replacing the shocks with aftermarket.

[PaulW42]

I thought the 1200GS had White Power not Showa (I'm 99% certain mine did but, since I've sold it, I can't check )

 

Paul

[Tool Man]

I thought the 1200GS had White Power

 

Wow....someone who actually remembers the White Power suspension born in the late 70's who took on the dirt bike suspension in storm.

 

They go by WP Suspension now and are doing quite well. I like their fork better than their shocks though.

 

But to answer your question, my 05' GS and others I've worked on are Showa.

[Jim VonBaden]

I thought the 1200GS had White Power

 

Wow....someone who actually remembers the White Power suspension born in the late 70's who took on the dirt bike suspension in storm.

 

They go by WP Suspension now and are doing quite well. I like their fork better than their shocks though.

 

But to answer your question, my 05' GS and others I've worked on are Showa.

 

Mine is WP. Maybe they made a change in late 05?

 

Jim

[Marty Hill]

The original info stated WP shocks. Wonder if they use both? They use 4 tire brands and 2 different throttle cable adjusters.