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Stripped Screw


joerockt

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So I'm replacing all the screws on my 99 R1100RT with the stainless steel kit from A&S. Most of them came out ok, except for the left side front wheel fender. Looks like its pretty rusted out, so I cant seem to get a good grip with any of my hex sets.

 

And since its so recessed, I can't cut a grove in it. Not sure what to do at this point, any suggestions?

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Afternoon joerockt

 

Plenty of options from driving in a larger non metric allen wrench to drilling it out.

 

I usually drill the bolt head off, then remove the part that the bolt is holding, then address the stub sticking out with the soft parts removed.

 

 

 

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Duh, as soon as you posted, dirtrider, that reminded me that I bought a extraction kit eons ago. Drilled out the hole, inserted the extractor, screw came out. Thanks!

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I would suggest you replace it with a standard Bright Zinc plated screw M6 x 45mm long.

The Stainless screws can corrode very quickly if the plating of the captive nut has deteriorated (and it will have done).

As I say, now you have gone this far I suggest you replace the captive nut too, as it will have a nice new plating on it.

 

Part number 51127070202 CAPTIVE CLIP NUT - M6-ZNS3 2 off at $1.05.

 

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same thing in the same place happened to me the other day. Drilled head off and was able to then use vice grips and some pb anti freeze spray. Replaced with a much better fastener.

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The screw has a huge Allen head and the wrench Fits deeply into the head. The original has a pretty small head on it.

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Next time use anti-seize paste on screw threads if you are having corrosion problems. It also should be used for stainless steel fasteners into metals as stainless can have some very bad gauling characteristics.

 

Be careful not to get any paste on the screw heads or on your wrench as it may well cause the wrench to cam out or strip out the hex.

 

Anti-seize is incredibly slippery stuff and will do wonders at reducing corrosion effects. You should probably reduce the installation torque maybe 30% (my number at least) to get the proper preload.

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The screw has a huge Allen head and the wrench Fits deeply into the head. The original has a pretty small head on it.

The stock bolt has a standard metric head on it, so I am confused by your observation. The bolt is M6 and the hex socket is a standard 5mm AF pocket.

 

Andy

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wheeliepup

As a helicopter mechanic, I have run into many a stubborn screw. My best advice on removing screws with stripped out heads is to apply lots of penetrating oil (ACF50 or WD40)and use a reverse (left twist) drill bit. By using the left hand drill bit, the rusted screw will many times release itself while drilling it out. Using never-seize for reassembly is also highly recommended.

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I would suggest you replace it with a standard Bright Zinc plated screw M6 x 45mm long.

The Stainless screws can corrode very quickly if the plating of the captive nut has deteriorated (and it will have done).

As I say, now you have gone this far I suggest you replace the captive nut too, as it will have a nice new plating on it.

 

Part number 51127070202 CAPTIVE CLIP NUT - M6-ZNS3 2 off at $1.05.

 

No, its not that bolt, it was the screw at the bottom of the fender in the recessed hole.

 

And please explain what you mean by stainless steel screws corroding? I've never seen a stainless steel anything corrode in my life. Maybe cause I live in SoCal? Who knows...

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Stainless steel will corrode like crazy if subject to certain conditions. Electrolytic corrosion will devour this material in double quick time. So too wil galvanic corrosion.

A great many folk believe that SS is the answer to all their problems, but actually it often causes more. Use of it should be weighed and correct inhibitors and protection should be used.

Andy

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No, its not that bolt, it was the screw at the bottom of the fender in the recessed hole.

 

Ah, well that one is a standard M5 x 10/12

So what have you popped in there?

Andy

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Hi Andy, I see that you recomended "standard zinc plated". Some of the hex socket head screws on the R1150RT look like they are galvanized rather than zinc plated (my 2003/4 at least). For example the head guard fixings and the fixings that hold the footrest plate to the frame.

 

Are there galvanized hex socket head screws on our bikes or am I looking at zinc plated that have surface corroded. If they are galvanized does anyone know where I can buy them in the UK.

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galvanisation is normally zinc plate (although it can be other stuff too), so we are talking of the same beast really.

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