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HES Sensor


LAR2599

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R1100RT 1996, 152,000 miles. During rain storm quit running. two hrs later would start but not run for more than a few minutes. Same process next day. Would start and run for a few minutes. After a few hours would run on hwy for 5 miles, then stop. Wait a five minutes..start and run 5 miles. This went on for approx. 50 miles then it would run steady at 65 mph....after about seventy miles ran fine at all speeds for the next 300. Does this sound like HES or fuel problem??

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I'd bet on the HES. Is it original? If so, it lasted about 100k miles longer than most peoples

 

When you say "stops running", does it just shut off or kick, buck, and choke its way to shutting off? Have you noticed if the tach has been bouncing around at all? That's usually another sign. When it won't start, check for spark

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I'd still bet its the HES. The next time it won't start, pull a spark plug, ground the housing, and give the motor a crank to see if you have spark.

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When my HES failed the tach went nuts, bouncing around all over the place. While troubleshooting on the center stand could hear one of the injectors firing like cow peeing on a flat rock.

 

Years later had an issue where the bike would quit running, but could recrank it while still coasting to a stop; repeat as needed. Swapped around the fuel pump relay and it ran just fine until hitting ~5200rpm at which it'd die again. No problems with the tachometer. Turned out to be a failing side stand switch. Easy to jump the wires to validate; and a new switch was a stock item and very easy to install.

 

My HES failure did not allow the bike to be ridden, had to tow it. The sidestand switch failure was intermittment but repeatable and did not go away with time.

 

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Replace it, CARRY A SPARE, tools/know how to fix it<>CARRY A SPARE...stay after class..write on the chalk board 100,000 times..CARRY A SPARE......

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Okay..here is a silly question....pictures I've seen with the front alternator cover removed, show the exhaust still in place.....how the heck do you remove the cover with exhaust still in place??

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Remove one of the "shark fins". There should just be two allen head bolts holding them on. That gives you the extra space needed

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Okay..here is a silly question....pictures I've seen with the front alternator cover removed, show the exhaust still in place.....how the heck do you remove the cover with exhaust still in place??

 

As already stated you remove the Lefthand (when viewed from the rider sitting on the bike) sharksfin on its BRACKET which uses a couple of bolts with spacers into the front of the engine casing.

5608.jpg.b4699e9e1656bc4caf9b54ee5bca4069.jpg

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Then once you have the alternator cover off, cut it in half, so that next time, you don't need to do any of this stuff, you just remove 2 x M5 socket cap bolts from the lower half of the alternator cover, and off it comes.

5607.jpg.6a62f24525c20e36122edf9c1853f36b.jpg

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Danny caddyshack Noonan

Been lurking and don't mean to hijack but, is the factory HES an acceptable replacement and spare?

 

PITA stuff only happens to me when far away from tools and home.

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Been lurking and don't mean to hijack but, is the factory HES an acceptable replacement and spare?

 

PITA stuff only happens to me when far away from tools and home.

 

Factory HES wiring harness insulation is insufficient for the heat load in the mounting area. These parts required a higher temperature rating for the wire. So while the factory HES replacement part will suffice to put you on the road again, it's merely "kicking the can down the road" and will most likely fail in the future.

 

Better off to make your own.

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R1100 RT no shark fins on my bike!!

 

Sure there is. They are right in front of the exhaust headers. If they weren't there, you would have no way of fastening the the front of the fairing to the bike.

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Okay..have the HES out of bike...all wires look good. Could the wires inside the sheath be bad? How would moisture affect them?

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Okay..have the HES out of bike...all wires look good. Could the wires inside the sheath be bad? How would moisture affect them?

 

The wires in the sheath are where the problem is found. The insulation will be cracked.

 

 

Here is a link that has a picture of what you are likely to find.

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When mine went "bad" (you can back search for that topic, quite extensive), the wiring was just fine. No noticeable cracking or damage per that picture. Upon reassembly and reinstall, has been working just fine..finnickey bastards these HES's...

 

That thread is here: Trouble

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Sam Taylor

Sorry to hijack a bit but I've read all the great advice here but am still uncertain on this point:

 

Is the HES a problem for the R1150 series, or as bad a problem, as for the R1100?

 

I think I read that there was an inline improvement in the harness at some point, but when was that? I happen to have an early production 02 R1150 (mfg Feb 01).

 

Thanks!

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Sorry to hijack a bit but I've read all the great advice here but am still uncertain on this point:

 

Is the HES a problem for the R1150 series, or as bad a problem, as for the R1100?

 

I think I read that there was an inline improvement in the harness at some point, but when was that? I happen to have an early production 02 R1150 (mfg Feb 01).

 

Thanks!

 

Not saying it can't happen, but I don't recall ever hearing of a 1150 having a HES problem. I believe it is just a 1100 problem.

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My 2003RT had an HES failure. Can't prove if it was the HES triggers or the loom, but it died and recovered, then died again, so my money is on a dead loom.

The replacement item looked a tiny bit different. The original had what looked like and adaptor block in the HES loom. The replacement didn't. I'm wondering if BMW was using old stock and changing the end fitting (?)

So, yes the 1150's can suffer too.

Andy

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