Push start button and nothing happens

[Swag]

then push it again several times, and it start? This is on my 07 RT with 73k on it. Any thoughts?

[Bill Montgomery]

Battery leads tight? When I first got my 07 R1200RT, only about 1 out of 3 times hitting the start button did it. Turned out I wasn't pushing hard enough. May be a sign of wear in the switch, but mine requires that I push it like I mean it or it just sits there.

[Swag]

Thank you Bill, I didn't think about the battery leads being loose Ill check that out.

[dirtrider]

Morning Bob

 

As mentioned above a loose battery cable could be the cause and that is the easiest thing to quickly check. You would think that would also re-set the clock at each failed starting attempt due to lost voltage to the clock.

 

You aren’t getting an EWS showing on the dash are you? If so that indicates a possible key or key antenna ring problem.

 

 

The starter control system on your 1200RT is fairly complicated as it is actually controlled by the BMS-K (fueling computer).

 

When you push the starter button the button signal is sent to the fueling computer, the computer then checks for things like kill switch on or off, clutch lever in or out, trans in neutral, etc, the computer then closes a circuit on the starter relay. The starter relay then sends battery power to the starter solenoid to engage the starter.

 

If loose battery cables are not the problem then you will either need to get a GS-911 on the system or use a test light (or voltmeter) and check for power at the starter solenoid when you push the start button (if power there then probably a starter problem), then check for power at the #30 terminal on the starter relay when you push the button, then check for continuity between terminals #85 & #86 on the starter relay when you push the button. If all OK on the above tests then you will have to verify the start push button is talking to the BMS- K and the BMS-K computer is seeing proper peripheral inputs from trans switch, kill switch, clutch switch, etc. Anything out of range on the peripheral inputs can trigger the BWS-K starter inhibit.

 

 

 

 

 

[Swag]

Thank you DR, I check bat cable they were clean and tight. No EWS, it did it again today after work,I got home and restarted it, and it started right up. In the morning it cranks a little slow before it starts. Im wondering if after 4 1/2 year the bat might be giving out on me.

You pretty much lost me after (If loose battery cables are not the problem)

Thanks again DR, we can always count on you,

Bob

[Beemer_Nancy]

Had another brand bike that got a lose wire at the start button. After figuring it out, was fine.

[NewBlue]

This is actually an easy isolation.

It just requires some planning and work on your part.

Come up with a plan and follow it when it doesn't crank, don't keep stabbing at the switch, you want it not to work.

 

The start inhibit switch is located next to the diagnostic connector. Terminals 30 and 87 are the relay input and outputs (battery+ and signal to the starer). You should have 12V to one all the time. You can jump between 87 and 30 and the starter will crank - even with the key off. Terminals 86 and 85 are for the relay coil and come from BMS-K

 

The start switch uses a ground signal. On the print one pin will be marked 31 that is the designation for a ground, the other is marked 50, that's the designation for the starter circuit. Find the harness connector, unplug it, use an ohm meter between the two (switch side) and check for continuity. If none it's the switch - I would start there.

 

You will need a print, knowing the connector location and wire colors<--- be very sure of this, and a plan ahead of time so you will be ready when the condition is happening.

 

If you have no clue what I'm talking about find someone who does to help you or take it to a dealer.