Bike won't start in neutral

[Mitch1352]

My '00 RT has 57k on it and I am having to replace the sensor that allows it to crank when both stands are up. If I jiggle the stands a bit, along with shifting gears a couple of times, the neutral light comes on and I can start it. I realize that all things mechanical can break, but I am kinda bummed that it would on my RT. Just replaced the sight glass too, but that may have been a product of lots of riding.

[JonathanE]

If your neutral light is slow in lighting up, then the neutral switch is failing. Mine failed on my RT in time for warranty replacement at 36K. The new one was getting flaky when I sold my RT with 60K, but you can just hold in the clutch if it refuses to light up when starting.Once started, if the RID says "0" (zero), then drop the clutch for neutral. If this is too much of a hassle, get it changed.

 

It's one of the more common oilhead failures.

[flars]

The 1100 has two interlock switches (clutch and sidestand), plus the neutral light switch. The oilheads have a tendency to develop what is known as a 'lazy' neutral light - sometimes it doesn't come on with the bike in neutral, sometimes it does, and sometimes it takes its own sweet time to come on. It is generally considered not worth replacing until you have to do clutch or transmission work, or you have to remove the swingarm for some reason.

The important switch to have working properly is the clutch interlock. It can save your butt if you stall it at a busy intersection and can't get the bike out of gear, or the neutral light won't come on.

[AndyS]

....I am having to replace the sensor that allows it to crank when both stands are up.

 

Both stands? Only the sidestand has a switch.

 

.... If I jiggle the stands a bit, along with shifting gears a couple of times, the neutral light comes on and I can start it..

So, are you sure it is not the clutch lever micro switch or the Gearbox Neutral switch?

 

....I realize that all things mechanical can break, but I am kinda bummed that it would on my RT.

Mitch, if something this simple upsets you, you have the wrong bike, because there are many things worse (hall sensor failure, FD failure, Gearbox input shaft failure, Ignition wiring loom failure). I'm not trying to disharten or alarm you, but help you get something simple into perspective.

At least you can always start the bike with a dicky sidestand switch.

[Selden]

Mitch, if something this simple upsets you, you have the wrong bike, because there are many things worse (hall sensor failure, FD failure, Gearbox input shaft failure, Ignition wiring loom failure). I'm not trying to dishearten or alarm you, but help you get something simple into perspective.

I think unrealistic expectations may be a common attitude among new BMW owners. I was disappointed when the lift handle spring broke on mine at around 66,000 miles. The fact is, I bought a that was ten years old, with more than 60,000 miles on it, and I should have expected some minor (so far) annoyances. The other factor is that Japanese auto and motor manufacturers have lowered manufacturing defects and maintenance to such levels that everybody else looks bad in comparison.

 

BMWs seem to require more fiddly maintenance, but on the positive side, my 99 RT is easier (with the exception of the clutch) to work on than any motorcycle I have ever owned, with the possible exception of my Honda FT500 thumper. The Pacific Coast required less routine maintenance than the RT, but the body work was a real jigsaw puzzle, so it probably worked out about the same.

[Mitch1352]

I'm not upset at all, just kinda bummed (disappointed may be a bit better) because my bike is in the shop instead of under me and riding :-). I know that mechanical things break and since I have a great deal of confidence in my shop, I don't really sweat it. I am not very mechanical, so that lack of knowledge of what's simple and what's not probably plays into it. The upside of that is that ignorance is bliss, and as long as the engine isn't engulfed in flame, I don't fret about it.

This may not be a big deal, but it will be fixed today and I will be back riding, which is what's important.

[Jim Moore]

Ask us first next time, bro. We might be able to save you a few bucks.

[Mitch1352]

Indeed I will. I think that if it turns out not to be the trouble, the shop will do the right thing.

[Jim Moore]

No doubt in my mind that the neutral switch is the problem. Most people live with it until they need to have the swingarm removed for some other reason. This place is great for information like that.

[Mitch1352]

It was the neutral switch. Now I get to plan for some new shocks, probably at the end of the summer. The stock ones still have life in them, so they will do for my upcoming trip next month. The shop recommended Ohlins and since I have heard great things about them, I will get those installed.

[AndyS]

All (OK, most) new shocks are good. Don't be tempted to Ohlins 'cos they are Ohlins. Wilburs and White Power and Showa all make great shocks and are often supplied at onsiderable less £'s than Ohlins.