Cigar Lighter outlets

[Phil50]

I'm just sticking this here in case it is of any use to anyone else. When I was searching for information on likely power sources the description of the radio socket was different to what I found.

 

I used to have a cigar lighter socket which was just an extension from one of the two poser sockets on the left hand side. This resulted in a bit of a mess of wires in the radio cubby hole. I had the tupperware off anyway and decided to tidy the whole thing up. I like having the car type cigar lighter sockets because it allows you to use standard phone chargers etc and you can take them from your car to your bike.

 

 

I bought a double socket opened it up and cut out the LED and wire to it. I could only find an "always on" supply in the handily placed blue radio socket and don't want the little LED do be on no matter how little it draws. On my 2003 R1150RT the socket has a Brown (ground), Red and White (positive always on), Blue and White, Blue and Red the last two of these appear to be speaker cables.

 

 

I was feeling brave and so drilled into the radio box and fitted a rubber grommet. The socket is mounted on 3M double lock inside the front of the box and I used straight through crimp connectors to act as plugs into the radio socket. Result no mess of wires.

[xit109]

This is really helpful for me. I'm getting ready to add an outlet and I'm not sure where yet but this looks good. I'll have to yank the radio but it really serves no purpose. Thanks for posting.

[AndyS]

This is really helpful for me. I'm getting ready to add an outlet and I'm not sure where yet but this looks good. I'll have to yank the radio but it really serves no purpose. Thanks for posting.

 

What bike have you got? I couldn't find it in your profile.

There are loads of places to put an outlet. Bear in mind that the ones in the glove box are great for things like phone charging and camera charging, but for more in use items (GPS, Heated clothing, Tank bag power), external power sockets are much better.

Andy

[xit109]

Guess I need to update my profile. I have an '04 1150RT. Not sure I want to figure out how to run to the battery just yet. Guess if the tupperware is off either is going to be pretty simple.

[AndyS]

Guess I need to update my profile. I have an '04 1150RT. Not sure I want to figure out how to run to the battery just yet. Guess if the tupperware is off either is going to be pretty simple.

I think you're right. You can also use the radio power take off without losing your radio if you break into the loom by the front sub frame.

I added a couple to the left & right side of the dash panel, and also an extra set on the RHS side panel area.

[oldyam]

Hi Andy

 

Quick Hi-jack ... why the cable tie on the tomtom 2 ?

 

Just asking as I have one of each ( V1 & V2 )

[Heyfrank]

This is interesting. Which wire,or color of wire did you tie into.

[AndyS]

This is interesting. Which wire,or color of wire did you tie into.

You obviously have a choice, and if you intend to use the radio connector (which is indeed handy)you then have 2 options:

If you want a little more available power you can break into the radio Red/White connector whose wire size is 0.75CSA and is originally fused at 15A.......but unfortunately is live all the time.

OR

you can break into the radio connector Violet/Black connector whose wire size is 0.35 and the original fuse is 4A...this is a switched supply made live when the ignition is on.

 

I took a heavy fused feed straight from the battery and mounted assorted relays for control of the aux sockets (whose switching control came from that violet/black cable.

 

Andy

[AndyS]

Hi Andy

Quick Hi-jack ... why the cable tie on the tomtom 2 ?

Just asking as I have one of each ( V1 & V2 )

So did I at one point!

The V1 mount wears the contacts out fairly quickly rendering the device broken.

The V2 has (had - see later) a much better mount which reduced the vibration seen at the contact points considerably.

The latching mechanism works really easily too.......

until you drop the tomtom and break off the locating wings.

So, now my device hooks in at the top and has a very expensive cable tie locking device that has worked admirably for years - (and I guess will continue to, until I change my nav kit).

 

Andy

[awagnon]

If you want a little more available power you can break into the radio Red/White connector whose wire size is 0.75CSA and is originally fused at 15A.......but unfortunately is live all the time.

OR

you can break into the radio connector Violet/Black connector whose wire size is 0.35 and the original fuse is 4A...this is a switched supply made live when the ignition is on.

 

If I recall when I did this a long time ago, the red/white 15 amp fused wire is always hot, like you said, but the violet/black wire is hot all the time except when the ignition is in the "handlebar locked" position. i.e., still hot when the ignition is simply in the off position. Correct me if I'm wrong.

[AndyS]

The violet black wire (via fuse 8) is 'hot' when the ignition is 'on' and also in the 'R' position, bit off when the ignition is set to 'off' or to 'P'. (for both the 1100 & the 1150).

 

Andy

[oldyam]

Hi Andy

 

I know about the V1 I complained recently about the fault and requested repair, when I sent it back they sent me a complete V2 as replacement.

 

Thanks for the info, just wondered if it was something else to look out for

[AndyS]

...Thanks for the info, just wondered if it was something else to look out for

 

Yep...don't drop it onto a hard surface from a great height :<

[dazzz]

I zip tied the power outlet on that center support. By the way, notice the ram mount ball is actually one of the handlebar bolts as well. (Discussed in recent thread).

[Heyfrank]

Thanks AndyS, That was helpful.