Balancing Throttle Bodies etc.

[timbo]

I haven't had my 02 RT very long. Just wondering what tool I should buy to balance the throttle bodies? Where do I get one? I've heard of the carb sticks. Have no idea where to get them. I think there is also another tool out there for balancing throttle bodies. What is it? And where do I get one?

 

The previous owner was using synthetic oil in it, since when, I don't know, maybe as early as 10,000 miles. It now has less than 15,000 miles. Any opinions on this, advantages, disadvantages?

 

I seem to be hitting neutral a lot on the way from first to second gear when I'm tooling around town. Anyone else experience this?

 

Regards,

Tim

[Reddog900]

First off, let me welcome you to this site. The people that make up this community are professional, opinionated, honest, caring, opinionated and very helpful.

 

The topics that you raise have all been discussed at length in past threads, go to the search section and read away. Briefly, I will share with you what I know. (some may say not much )

 

Throttle Bodies - this typically is checked every 6k miles or when you bike is running ruff. I haven't done mine in 14 months, around 5K miles. To do this you need to remove all your tupperware/fairings so you might as well make this a part of some overall tune up practices, adjust the valves, change the oil and fuel filter, bleed the brakes and clutch systems. Don't do it just to do it.

 

How you perform this work is not all that hard and you can make the test equipment yourself if you choose too. Read some of the past threads or check some of the other BMW website for information.

 

Synthetic Oil has been discussed here more than one wants to remember, it is always as heated topic. Go to search and read past threads. From what I can determine, most run Mobil 1 15-50wt and they typically don't put it in their bikes until 18-20k miles. The biggest factor is if your bike burns oil? It has been known for some to have up to 20,000 miles before the oil consumption goes down. Others put synthetic in and the oil consumption drops off. Go figure. If yours has it so much the better, ride the bike and enjoy. How often to change, some do it every 3k miles, others every 6k miles. You make that choice.

 

Hitting neutral in your shifts, search past threads. You are probably not putting enough umph into it. Knowledgable members recommend that you keep the RPM's up a bit when you shift to allow for better syncronization when shifting. These transmissions do not shift like Japanese bikes so it requires some foot leverage to get it into 2nd. I had the same problem, get some miles on the bike and both of you will be happy. I did change to a different gearbox oil which I feel helped in that area.

 

This is a great group of people that are willing to share information, lend a helping hand, offer words of encouragement, or a shoulder to lean on when issues arise. Participate, you will come away a better persom.

 

Send me your email address and I will forward you some information you might find useful on your bike.

 

Happy Ridin'

[Les is more]

Woderful post, Tim!

 

The only thing I might add other than my welcome would be this link to the "How to search" post contained in Discussion Board Support

[flat_twin]

Hi Timbo,

 

 

I'll add to the previous comment about shifting. The technique is not really to force the shift, but rather to have just a bit of upward pressure on the shifter before you pull the clutch. Then firmly move the shifter to the next gear. The clutch is just a quick pull in, not even all the way, just enough to allow the gear change, then release and meet the engine speed as you bring up the throttle. With practice you can shift these bikes smoothly.

[Voyager]

Hi Tim!

 

TB synch: You can build your own tool very cheap. See here

 

Otherwise Here is a source for the twin max.

 

Hitting neutral: pre-loading the shifter and adjusting it to your foot are two methods that worked to correct this for me.

 

Welcome to the site!

[SpaceKing]

Nice welcome Tim!

beno

[bmweerman]

Hi and welcome.

 

Regarding TB Synch tool I just bought on of these and it works great.

 

My $.02

 

And welcome again!

 

Cameron

[bmuuEd]

I've had the homemade tb sync tool for years. Always worked great. After seeing yours, I'll have to make a new one. Mine is quite primitive. They are cheap, and I think, accurate. One time on an old airhead one of the vac ports was partly blocked and and the other sucked in some fluid. What kind ya got in yours? BTW Sid, can you come over to my place and help organize my shop? Mine looked like that after I first built it 10 yrs ago. Oh wait, it never looked like that.

 

Ed

[timbo]

I'll add to the previous comment about shifting. The technique is not really to force the shift, but rather to have just a bit of upward pressure on the shifter before you pull the clutch. Then firmly move the shifter to the next gear. The clutch is just a quick pull in, not even all the way, just enough to allow the gear change, then release and meet the engine speed as you bring up the throttle.

 

I'm assuming that this is the same shifting procedure for all the shifts, not just 1st to 2nd. I'm still wondering what the carb sticks are and if they are still sold. What a great group of people! Red dog sent me some great adobe documents and pointed out where to find some more. Thanks everyone Hope to meet some of you one day.

[bmuuEd]

Not sure on the sticks. My pat answer is to google it. Think they work the same as the homemade.

For shifting, I place a little preload on the shifter before shifting. Pull up on the lever lightly untill some resistance is felt, hold untill time to shift then shift. Takes a second or two. After a few trys you'll get a feel for it.

 

Ed

[Wooster]

Carb sticks are four glass (or rigid plastic) tubes, mounted on metal "board", approximately two inches by 24 inches; the four tubes' "bottom" is a small 1.5 inch by 1.5 inch container which you pour mercury in (this container is shared by all four tubes); next, there are flexible rubber/plastic tubes which come off the top of glass/rigid tubes; the other end of these flexible tubes are then attached to carb's (or throttle body's) vacume fitting/spigot. When motor is running, each carb/throttle body's vacume pulls mercury into it's corresponding glass/rigid tube. Now, you're ready to adjust carb/throttle body so that the columns of mercury are at same height. With BMW boxer, you simply use only two of the four tubes; four cylinder/carb uses all four tubes.

Motion Pro, a very prolific motorcyclist's tool source, produces carb sticks: Chaparral Cycles (the large Califorina-based company) sells these as does Competition Accessories. When I got mine, there were two choices, regular and deluxe; I got regular for 30 or 40 dollars, back in mid 80s.

CDI, high voltage ignition system of my 85 airhead negated the traditional carb sync method (which you probably don't need to know about yet it was pretty funky, trust me).

 

I still have my carb sticks in MA which I use on my airhead: I've a twinmax in NM for my oilhead. Either does the job.

 

Wooster w/history

 

BTW, I second Leslie's compliment, Reddog, well written post, I'm literary envious !

[Voyager]

Ed! I'm afraid I can't take credit for the shop, OR the tool. The site, by Steve I think, is just where I robbed HIS good idea! I'd be happy to help you arrange your garage, but it would probably turn out just like mine

 

I agree on the manometer though. Best thing I ever did. Cost me $5 and an hour of work. There's something very satisfying about tuning a $15K motorcycle with a $5 tool.

[bmuuEd]

I like to be frugel also. And of course, the cheapest thing associated with my BMW is me.