R1100RT brake pad replacement questions

[TrainingWheels]

I am trying to resolve some discrepancies between the Clymer manual and the Oilhead maintenance pdf and answer some simple questions as I begin my first attempt at replacing brake pads on my RT.

 

• Do you need to remove the rear ABS sensor prior to removing the caliper, or can it be rotated around? What size star key is holding it on?
  
• The Clymer manual recommends that the brake systems and ABS system are to be bled after the procedure. I recently had all of these things done for annual maintenance. Is it important to do them all again, just bleed the brake lines, or just top off the fluid level?
  
• What's the best way to clean pistons?
  
• What exactly is the procedure for getting the anti-rattle clips onto the EBC pads? Will I need to drill a hole in the new pad?

 

regards

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

Do you need to remove the rear ABS sensor prior to removing the caliper, or can it be rotated around? What size star key is holding it on?

 

Your profile says you have an R1100RT.

 

The ABS sensor does NOT need to be removed from the final drive unit in order to remove the caliper. one of the caliper mount bolts does, however, hold a bracket that hangs onto the sensor cable. When you unbolt the caliper, this little bracket is freed up, no special procedure required. Don't recall the allen wrench size; hopefully you have a complete set.

 

[*]The Clymer manual recommends that the brake systems and ABS system are to be bled after the procedure. I recently had all of these things done for annual maintenance. Is it important to do them all again, just bleed the brake lines, or just top off the fluid level?

 

I've never bled the brakes after changing pads. No problems after 100K miles. If either reservoir was close to full before you changed pads, you may need to remove some fluid when all is said and done. Be careful during the procedure to protect your paint!

 

What's the best way to clean pistons?

 

I use a shop rag and an old spray can of carb cleaner.

 

What exactly is the procedure for getting the anti-rattle clips onto the EBC pads? Will I need to drill a hole in the new pad?

 

Yah, you'll need to drill the pads. As an alternative, you can scrap the AR clips and just use brake-tack spray. This is super sticky goopy spray that you spray on the pad backing plates, let it dry till it's sticky, and then just install. The pad then sticks to the pistons, no rattling. This does require very clean pads and pistons tho.

[eakins]

this is what i found on the front.

the pads must be retracted to make clearance to remove the front brake calipers.

-put bike on center stand

-remove cap for front brake master cyl (put towl around it so not to spill fluid)

-put some duct on the rim behind where the brake caliper comes out so as not to ding the rim. clearnace it tight.

-remove caliper bolts

-the caliper will move bakwards way from the rotor, but you can't get it out.

-i wrap a towel around a large flat head screw driver (or similar) and put this in between the brake pads and twist or lever them outwards. the calipers pistons will move outwards, brake fluid will move backup the brake line & fill up the master cyl. watch to not overflow & spill.

-when the brake pads have spread enough the caliper will have room to move past the rotor & rim and it's out. it's a close fit past the rim, so the duct tape prevents you from dinging the rim with the caliper!

-change pads & put brake back together

-do the same for the other side

-blead the brakes.

 

i was confused on how to get enough room for the caliper to move past the rim/rotor. once it did this it all worked. it's a pain, but works. i guess if there is a way to remove the caliper without retracting the pad/piston i haven't figured it out. the first time i did it i moved around the caliper, but could never get it to clear the rim. what do the rest of you do?

[TrainingWheels]

Thanks gents.

 

Don't recall the allen wrench size; hopefully you have a complete set.

 

I do, but it looks like a squared off Torx head, and I didn't want to muck it up with a hex key.

 

Yah, you'll need to drill the pads. As an alternative, you can scrap the AR clips and just use brake-tack spray. This is super sticky goopy spray that you spray on the pad backing plates, let it dry till it's sticky, and then just install. The pad then sticks to the pistons, no rattling. This does require very clean pads and pistons tho.

 

Thanks, that's a suggestion I had not seen before. What about getting them off next time around? How bad is the rattle anyway?

 

Thanks for the tip Mr. Bill.

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

Thanks, that's a suggestion I had not seen before. What about getting them off next time around? How bad is the rattle anyway?

 

Not hard to get off next time.

 

In my experience, the rattle of EBC pads is only an issue when you're travelling at modest speeds, say <20 MPH, AND you're not on the brakes. At higher speeds (or when you're on the brakes), friction with the rotors wedges the pads against their stop in the caliper snugly enough so that they don't rattle.

 

That said, when they do rattle, it's annoying. You'll want to do something, either the clips or the tack-spray.

[TrainingWheels]

Cheers, Mitch.

[Reddog900]

My bike uses a #8 metric hex key, I don't know the Torq bolt size.

 

I don't bleed my brakes after changing pads, as Bill mentioned, check your reservior level and take some out before you push back the caliber pistons.

 

Don't it feel great doing this yourself and saving some money.

[TrainingWheels]

Thanks for the help folks. I took the rear caliper off and decided that there was more pad left than I estimated from my eye test. I reinstalled the old ones and now I have a feeling that I might have revealed another problem. How much contact should the pads have with the rotor when the brake is not activated? There was always a little contact, but now I can't seem mentally compare this to how it was before. Spinning the wheel freely, it comes to a stop quickly. Of course, now I am also paranoid and feel like there is not as much power in the rear brakes.

 

Am I in for a caliper rebuild? This bike sat for a long time prior to my receipt. Any suggestions?

 

thanks.