Knocking from Transmission

[scaudy]

02 R1150RT 65K Get the bike up to speed pull the clutch and I can hear a knocking sound that can also be felt in the pegs. Sound is constant and slows as the bike slows to a stop and gets quieter as the speed decreases. With the bike on the center stand same thing and sounds as though it may be coming from the rear of the trans or where the drive shaft connects.

 

Any thoughts as to the issue?

Thanks!

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

If it goes the same speed as the rear wheel......

Ujoint?

 

[dirtrider]

Morning scaudy

 

It does kind of sound like drive shaft or U joint related.

 

Put a tape mark on the rear wheel and ride it around in a parking lot with someone watching the tape mark and calling out to you each full rear tire rotation.

 

Seeing as the drive shaft rotates almot 3 times for every 1 rear wheel rotation if your noise in the foot pegs happens almost 3 times for every one full rear wheel rotation you will have an idea. (some U joint problems can be twice shaft speed so you could even see 5 or so per 1 rear wheel revolution)

 

If the problem only occurs once per rear wheel rotation then your problem is probably more likely rear wheel crown bearing or loose wheel or something that spins one to one with the rear wheel.

 

[4wheeldog]

Have you checked the final drive for play? (Grab wheel at 12/6, try to rock, then again at 9/3). When my final drive gave up, the first indication was the capscrews holding the disc to the rear wheel hitting the caliper bracket. Sounded/felt just like you are describing. Good luck!

[scaudy]

Thanks, I will give these things a try this weekend and see what I come up with.

[scaudy]

Well I finally got this sorted out. At the end of last year I had the clutch and driveshaft replaced and it looks like the incorrect driveshaft was used. Looks like a shaft from a k1200 bike was used that was a bit too short. I put around 2K miles on the bike with no problems then it started making the noise and I parked it. Had the correct driveshaft put in and all is now fine. The person who done the incorrect work is a BMW tech and worked (may still) at a So Cal BMW dealser. Ended up having it fixed by Liors Moto Ride and received great service.

 

In the meantime I picked up an 06 Yamaha FZ1 to ride while the RT was sitting. Wow does that bike have some power.

[AndyS]

....In the meantime I picked up an 06 Yamaha FZ1 to ride while the RT was sitting. Wow does that bike have some power.

 

Hi Scaudy you are right about the FZ1, but as an aside, have you ever ridden your RT with the screen removed, polished the saddle and lightened the throttle springs. It feels like your RT is 3 times quicker than it currently is. All that cosseting that the plastic and ancillaries offers fools you into a false (and downgraded) sense of performance.

 

Oh, just as a PS to your solution, they did ensure the phasing of the U joints was correct when they fitted the new one?

 

Andy

[scaudy]

Never tried that with the RT but can see how the RT blocking all of the wind gives a sense of not moving and leads one into a false sense of performance. I do love the RT and while the FZ is fun it could never replace the RT for me (a 1200RT will eventually). It was interesting to ride it again after putting 2K miles on the FZ. Very different ride to me.

 

As far as the shaft goes I actually got to watch the work be done and Lior (the tech) mentioned about making sure the U joints were correct. Just by watching the tech work you could tell he had done that job many many times. Got every tool he needed out before even starting the job.

[Mark K]

They love it when you hover.