Choke sticking 2004 RT

[Mamelukesword]

Still new to the RT world. I use my RT to start the bike every morning. Things work as advertised to that point. My choke lever gets stuck when trying to turn the choke off. I try just pushing the lever down and it is very difficult, sometimes impossible to move. Is there a secret or do I have some sort of issue?

 

thanks

[cruisin]

I found that if I open the throttle ever so slightly at the same time I attempt to release the fast idle lever, it goes back much easier.

[outpost22]

Still new to the RT world. I use my RT to start the bike every morning. Things work as advertised to that point. My choke lever gets stuck when trying to turn the choke off. I try just pushing the lever down and it is very difficult, sometimes impossible to move. Is there a secret or do I have some sort of issue?

 

thanks

 

Just for clarification, you don't have a "choke", but a "fast idle" lever. It just opens the throttle a little bit. On my '96 they are cable actuated and adjustable. Pretty sure an '04 is too, but someone with an 1150 will have to chime in on this.

[AndyS]

...I try just pushing the lever down and it is very difficult, sometimes impossible to move. ....

thanks

 

2 things spring to mind.

a/. Take the plastic off and check for correct routing and no cable ties too tight.

 

b/. Use some dry PTFE lube (as used on bicycle control cables) and slowly but surely work that into the cable from the clutch lever end. Don't use normal oil, it can really crud up the cables.

 

Andy

[Mamelukesword]

Thanks for the input. Sorry bout the wrong terminology. I tried twisting the throttle slight as 'cruisn' stated and that helped alot. I am also going to take it apart and check routing lube the cable.

[dirtrider]

Morning Mamelukesword

 

As a rule if the choke (fast idle) lever sticks as the choke is being put ON it is a cable lube or cable routing problem.

If it sticks while being turned OFF it is usually the lever pivot or inner lever saddle full of grit or old lubrication residue.

 

You might try to lubricate the lever pivot down in around the bar area first. Just about any non petroleum based lube will work, something that won’t gum up or retain dirt with age.

 

Personally I would start with something like WD-40 as that is a good cleaner as well as harmless to plastic and rubber. If that works just let it go until it gets sticky again then maybe try something a little longer lasting.

 

Personally I don’t like the Silicone or Teflon based lubes for the LEVER itself as those can make the lever move so easily it won’t stay set by itself due to reduced friction. Those type lubes do work great on the cables though.

 

 

 

[ElevenFifty]

Do a bit of research before addressing the throttle cables. Both the fast idle and throttle terminate in a 'Bowden Box' located under the fuel tank. They activate a wheel mechanism that has two additional cables - one to the right throttle and the second to the left throttle.

 

I changed all of these about 60K miles ago according to the recommended maintenance schedule ... the old ones were just fine. When you replace these, you will need to adjust them so that the left and right cylinders are syncronized. This "Throttle Body Sync" (TBS) procedure along with a good valve adjustment, will transform your RT.

 

I have loved every minute on my 04 RT. I came within inches of replacing her this spring but just couldn't do it. Instead I had her shocks rebuilt, gave her all new lubricants and hydraulics, replaced brake rotors all around, spent some bucks on farkles and gear, and am planning a 7K mile return to the Rockies in June. 113,000+ trouble free miles. $$$$$ saved by using the great tech resources on this site.

 

Ride Safe

[Ken Denton]

On a related note: I have a 2004 1150 rt also. Got it Oct 2009 with 8,300 miles. I use the Advance to help start the bike in cold weather but I have to put the bike in neutral and hold the lever up. It has never had any locking ability and has to be held up to start. Not a huge issue but not sure why it won't lock in place for warm up? I was not even sure if it is supposed to have locks? Bike has 22,000 now.

Ken Denton

[Boffin]

The cold-start has three positions - Off, half-open and fully open. There is a detent at the half-open position only.

As to warm-up, one word - dont. The owners handbook tells you to start up and ride off immediately. Close the cold-start lever on the move, once there is one or two bars showing on the guage (I close it on ride-off, holding a little throttle at stop before the engine is warm - this is all that the lever does anyway.) There have been several cases where bikes left on high-idle have causght fire. Others have melted the oil-check window. At the very least it will damage the fairing aroung the exhaust header.

 

Andy

 

 

[dirtrider]

Morning Ken

 

Your choke (fast idle) has 3 defined positions. The lever should stay off when set to off stay by itself at about ½ on with a detent and you will need to manually hold it at full-on as there is no detent for that position.

 

The “no detent” (you have to hold it there) at full-on is to protect the bike form a quickly overheating if left idling in that position by mistake.

 

What I used to do in cold weather on my 1150RT was place the choke at the detent held ½ position, then manually hold the twist grip slightly open to start the bike. That is the same as holding the choke lever all the way on only easier to do. Once the it ran for a few seconds I would let the twist grip return to allow fast idle at the detent held ½ position.

 

Keep in mind that the lever says CHOKE but in reality it is ONLY a fast idle lever (same as just holding the twist grip open a little).