Jump to content

long term storage - draining fluids


Recommended Posts

I've been trying to sell my 1996 r1100rt - got a bunch of low ballers and decided I would rather keep it. Problem is I'm leaving for a year to move to Alaska (from Louisiana) and have to store the bike long term. I have no idea what fluids to drain, where they are at, and how. Any advice you can give on long term storage for my 1996 r1100rt would be great.

Link to comment
Joe Frickin' Friday

Don't drain anything. Full tank of gas, and if you're storing it for a full year in a warm climate like New Orleans, in this case I would recommend adding fuel stabilizer and running the bike for a few minutes to circulate the stabilizer throughout the fuel system, up to/including the injectors.


Fresh oil in the engine, then go for a ride of at least 10-20 miles to get the oil up to full temp and cook off all of the raw fuel/water that ended up in the oil during the warm-up phase.


Leave the gearbox and final drive with their normal fill of gear oil. It'll probably work well if you change the oil, head for a gas station, squirt in some stabilizer, fill up the tank, and then go for a 15-mile cruise before heading to the storage space.


Bleed the brakes with fresh fluid, and they should be just fine for a full year of sitting, since they normally get bled about that often anyway.

Link to comment

Perhaps it's obvious, but you will want to set the bike on the center stand to take weight off the wheels and bearings. I put some nice flat spots on my tires by leaving it stored on the side stand too long. :dopeslap:

Link to comment

Air up tires to max recommended pressure on sidewalls,recheck pressure and adjust to normal,before riding again.Pressure will likely be low after a year.


If you don't disconnect battery and have access to power,then get a Battery Tender and plug it into the accessory socket or direct to battery.


Sea foam or Stabil,as recommended above.


Bike on center stand.


Shove a wad of steel wool in the air intake to prevent critters in your air box.


Some recommend mothballs in a pan under your bike to keep other critters away.


Wash,completely dry and wax the bike before storage.


Ventilated bike cover,if exposed to the elements



Link to comment
Any advice you can give on long term storage for my 1996 r1100rt would be great.


as mentioned above,

a/. oil change prior to lay up,

b/. full tank of fuel,

c/. isolate battery, and blank air inlet.

d/. bike on centrestand with wheels off the ground,

e/. let out most of the pressure (leave about 8PSI)

f/. give the brake callipers a good wiggle to get the pads away from the discs (to make sure they dont stick).

g/. you may want to cable tie the clutch lever back if you would like the peace of mind of the clutch plate not sticking to the flywheel) but this puts additional strain on the clutch cable.

h/. cover bike (including tyres)


When you get to use it again, unblank air box air inlet, re-inflate tyres, check sidewalls and grooves in treads, carefully check brake hoses for perishing, re connect battery and fully charge, change brake fluid & bleed.

Careful shake down ride.

Link to comment

Also, with the bike on the center stand, put something under the tire that is touching the floor like a thin pice of plywood or anything to prevent the tire from touching concrete.

Link to comment

Good idea to wiggle the brake calipers to prevent disk corrosion. That's a new one that probably doesn't affect stainless rotors, but it sure does affect steel rotors.

Link to comment


This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Create New...