neil_wilcox Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 I have always stored my bikes (currently 2005 R1200RT) in the winter with a full tank with fuel stabilizer added and run through the injectors. I just read an article which recomended storing an engine with an empty tank to avoid water attaching to the ethanol in fuel and causing phase separation. Should I change? I have always noticed that it takes one or two tanks of fuel for the bike to run well the next spring. Just asking what is the collective knowledge. Neil W Link to comment
bobbybob Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 A full tank (*really* full) leaves very little room for condensation--i.e. water. The small amount that might condense would mix with the alcohol, but that is what alcohol does best--scavenges water from gasoline and burns it (sort of). And a stabilizer, like Stabil-Marine, should keep the phase separation to a minimum. Not sure if I understand the reasoning behind the statements. Link to comment
neil_wilcox Posted January 31, 2011 Author Share Posted January 31, 2011 I should have explained. The ethanol in current gas will (according to the current Pop Mechanics) will saturate at 0.6%, beyond which no more water can be accomodated by the alcohol and the mix forms a sludge whigh comes out of solution in the gas and falls to the bottom of the tank. Adding more alcohol will apparently not redissolve the water and make the mixture combustible. A drop in temperature of the gas while stored (winter months) will increase the relative saturation of the ethanol and may trigger this phase change, especially if the fuel placed in the tank was originally near the water saturation point of the alcohol. They recommend storage with an empty tank (no alcohol) Link to comment
Lmar Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 I fill my tank and add fuel stabilizer, then run the engine to get the stabilizer through the injectors. I also use a Battery Tender Jr. for the battery. Link to comment
Firefight911 Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 Fill it full, add stabilizer, run it through the injectors, store it on a tender. See ya in the Spring. Link to comment
Joe Frickin' Friday Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 I fill it full, but have never added stabilizer. Never had a problem for ten years with my R1100RT, and didn't have a problem after the first winter with my '09 R1200RT. Not anticipating a problem after this winter, either. Link to comment
Lmar Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 In response to: Poster: Joe Frickin' Friday Subject: Re: do you fill your tank for storage? I fill it full, but have never added stabilizer. Never had a problem for ten years with my R1100RT, and didn't have a problem after the first winter with my '09 R1200RT. Not anticipating a problem after this winter, either. Adding stabilizer would depend on how long you store your bike. Winters here start in Mid October and last at least until mid April. Link to comment
VinnyR11 Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 I never filled my bike before storage and stopped adding stabilizer about 6 years ago. No issues at all. I keep it on a charger, and it starts right up for the first ride of the season. The bike has always been stored in a garage (unheated), so I'm not sure if that makes a difference. Link to comment
KDeline Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 How about storing in warm weather? I store a bike in Florida summers for 6 months while I am up north for the summer, any difference? Link to comment
Tony_K Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Here's something to consider... The whole topping of for storage practice came from so called dreaded condensation water gas infiltration combination. That and a full to the top metal fuel tank cant rust. Well RT's have a abs plastic tank, it can't rust. No problem. As for condensation, a completely empty tank has no issue with this especially if you leave the cap open so atmospheres can equalize. Think about it... or just keep doing the same 'ol thing, whatever makes you happy. Ken, with your metal tank GS. Apply what I said for a season of storage with cap open. It will be bone dry and remain that way until you fill it back up for the first ride of the season. No rust, no Sta-bil, no old gas, no problem! Link to comment
johnlt Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Tony, draining an RT tank "bone dry" is not too easy. The old airheads had dual petcocks that would do this with ease but the newer RTs make it difficult. Also not sure if having completely dry seals and fuel strips for 6 months in sub-freezing temps can cause any degradation. Not saying it will, just don't know. Link to comment
I812 Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 I filled mine up and that wonderful fuel strip has yet to recognize that the tank is full. Link to comment
Tony_K Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 John, Agreed "bone dry" is the result of cap left open on a near empty tank. Since many BMW riders religiously track and map mileage there should be no issue getting the tank within a pint of remaining fuel. Modern nytril seals in contact with fuels are very expansion and contraction neutral and do not dry out like seals 30 years ago did. So that is not really a worry. Fuel strip... Well considering its high rate of failure in all conditions is that really a concern? It will most likely need to be replaced 2 or 3 times during the riding season anyway... Link to comment
Ponch Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 I filled mine up and that wonderful fuel strip has yet to recognize that the tank is full. Mine takes a few minutes to register. Link to comment
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