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RE:problems with HID and windscreen


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Greetings to every one! I just received my RT , from the shop.Everything works JUST FINE....except 1-2 things for which i would appreciate your comments.

I installed a HID 35W 4300K Bi-Xenon kit (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170546868187&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT) and surely the emitted light is much more clear compared with my previous HID 6000K although the high beam isn't as powerful as i would hopped for.The problem with the newly installed set is that when the bike goes into a big poodle and the bike shakes , the light goes out! Last night i was on the freeway and it was pooring with rain and step on a poodle with 80Km (more or less!) and the lights went off . Tried to open them when i stopped and that worked only when i switched them off and opened them again. Do you think that it has to do with the lamp or the connection?


Another problem is a rattling noice coming from the top right screw of the windshield. It seems that although the screw is firmly placed it moves a bit and when the bike rattles or shaken heavily due to road conditions it rattles.

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Check that you have the rubber pads (Part number 46632313892) between the windshield and the bracket and also that you have the rubber bump stop (part number 46632309923) on the top part of the cowl in place. There are two lengths of bump stop on the windshield a 2.5 for the bottom (Part number46632313774) and the longer 5.5 (part number 46632309923) for the top.



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Well, I've said it before so I'll say it once more.


There is no good way to install HIDs on the current RT. ALL require hacking into the stock wiring and moving parts in ways that reliability will be compromised. And most of those Chinese HID kits are pure crap from a build perspective anyway.


There is a small chance your problem is the HID parts but its a lot more likely that either the connection to the bikes headlight circuit isn't done well, the hi voltage connector at the rear of the bulb shakes loose, or some electrical connection in the HID wiring itself is not done well.


My preference for the RT is the Osram 65W H7 lamps. Good lifespan, nearly half again as much light as stock and no reliability compromises. I use 5 across the front of mine- have a pair of Hella FF50s that use them plus the 3 stock positions. 325W of halogen power is enough for any speed the bike can reach and the RT has no problem powering almost anything you can hang on it. I've also got a set of TrailTech 30W HIDs under the oil cooler but their perceived output is no match for the Osrams. Already thinking about what to do with that location in the future as I cannot recommend TTs. Perhaps one of the new high output LED types or wait for another generational improvement in LEDs which won't take more than another year, probably.


Understanding properties of your eye is useful when you add lighting. The bluer the color temp, the less sensitive your eye is to it. So halogens are better than LED or HID, even 4300K HID, at comparable output because halogens are lower color temp (usually around 3200K) HIDs rely on high output to offset a decreased perceived efficiency. LEDs can be problematic for another reason- they are not a full spectrum generator but instead get their apparent color temp from a blend of 3 wavelength peaks. Because of this and their small size, they produce more glare and far less depth perception than from equivalent output full spectrum sources (eg any halogen bulb). This is easily demonstrated simply by comparing a traditional flashlight and an LED one pointed at trees a couple hundred feet away and noting what you see. DESPITE THE OUTPUT PER WATT IMPROVEMENTS OF HIDS AND LEDS, THEY CANNOT MATCH THE DEPTH PERCEPTION POSSIBLE WITH HALOGEN LIGHTING. This is at its core, a quality of vision vs quantity type of discussion where "more" is often NOT better, especially in misty, foggy, rainy or hi reflectivity situations. What works best is very situation dependent. HIDs lose a lot of comparative utility in many urban settings and are at their best in open terrain with moderate reflectivity.


However, LED flashlights, especially when powered by lithium batteries that have long storage life and hi energy density, are great for carrying on the bike for emergency uses. Because I ride at night and camp, I typically have 4 or 5 different ones (all small but with long life and high output) on the bike.


Sounds like your windshield was possibly put on sloppy after the light install or the upper support bracket is vibrating a little. Easiest way to tell is imply get out the torx wrench and remove, reinstall the windshield to ensure it is on right while examining the bracket for possible noise-generating contact.

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Hi Racer


Perhaps if youd read his info he is unable to fit H7 lamps in the headlight of his R1100RT as it only takes an H4 !!!


I have had an HID kit fitted to my R1100RT for some time now and find your info to be mis-leading at best, mine was a doddle to fit ( no butchering / hacking of the wiring ) and has been excellent in use since.


The OP should however investigate the fitting of the screen as you suggest and also the fairing mounting to the main bracket, as I have found this to generate quite a bit of vibration if not properly secured.


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Well, I've said it before so I'll say it once more.


There is no good way to install HIDs on the current RT.


Absolute Rubbish.


I have an HID kit fitted to my RT and the adaption from the stock wiring to the HID kit is spot on. The fitting of the loom into the headlight back shell is totally water proof, and as such it is spot on.

My only critisism of HID on a bike not specifically designed for it, is that it will always blind other road users because it does not have self levelling built into it. So when you accelerate and the front end rises, the lights just head for the stars.

So in summary, good lights with limitations, requiring sesitivity towards other road users.



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