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Rea Brake Light


Wayne Cowen

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Rear brake light(top bulb)stays on at all times when ignition is in "on" position. Front wheel rotates easily. Rear wheel has noteable resistance when turning by hand....and pedal has little to no free play.

 

Opinions please......problem with rear brake system???

Is there a way to adjust free play at the pedal? Rear tire was replaced not too long ago.

 

Thanks in advance

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Evening Wayne

 

The place to start is to identify which brake is actually causing the rear brake light bulb to stay lit.

 

Once identified, see if it is simply the switch or maybe a sticking lever or pedal.

 

With the rear brake appearing to drag slightly you might have a problem with the pedal not fully returning to it’s stop or something jamming up the pedal return or maybe even a bent pedal.

 

 

 

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I'd start by checking the simplest first; slightly jamming lever or pedal. If that is not the culprit the next simplest and cheapest are the micro-switches which do go bad. The good part is that Radio shack carries the same switch for about $3.25 if you are willing solder theirs in instead of buying the whole harness that the stealers charge a lot more for.

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I get the same thing on my 1100RT. The rear brake switch is faulty. If I press the pedal and let it come up easily, it will not turn the light off. So I removed the right side plate and cleaned everything there, the returning spring, the switch, everything. Put it all back together and it works just great now ;)

 

Dan.

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Engine & Ignition off.

quiet environment.

gently operate front brake lever and listen for the 'click' of the micro switch. can you hear it?

Next get down close to the RH footrest plate and by hand push the foot brake and listen for the 'click' of the micro switch. can you hear it?

That would be the starting point for me to try and identify the most likely culprits.

 

Andy

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Unplug the micro switches and see if it turns off, you may need to put a jumper between the micro switch wire because i think, not positive, that the switch is normally closed and activating the lever opens the switch, so to close the circuit you may need to jump the wires, this will tell you if it is front or rear switch. then go from there.

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-- you may need to put a jumper between the micro switch wire because i think, not positive, that the switch is normally closed and activating the lever opens the switch, so to close the circuit you may need to jump the wires, --

 

 

Afternoon Kmac

 

Not on the 1100 ABS-2 system those switches are normally open and close to put the brake light on. On the 1100 ABS-2 the brake lights are not controlled by the ABS computer like on the later 1150 I-ABS systems.

 

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Thanks for responses...failed to mention this is a 98 1100RT.

Will proceed with switch T-shoot.

 

Is there anything else associated with brake system that could cause this problem??

 

Have not yet checked rear brake fluid level...will check during further trouble shooting of switches. Did not notice any problem after reinstalling rear caliper following a recent tire change a few hundred miles ago....wondering if it could have started at that time.

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Afternoon Wane

 

The thing is, as of the info we have at hand now it could be related (like a sticking or non fully returning rear brake pedal). Or unrelated like a malfunctioning brake switch on the brake light problem and a plugged by-pass port in the rear master cylinder on the brake drag problem, or other brake hydraulic problem..

Might even be a sticking rear caliper on it’s sliding pins for the rear brake drag (that wouldn’t effect the brake light though)

 

My suggestion is to first address the brake light staying one then see if that effects the rear brake drag. Once the light problem is repaired then move on to the rear brake drag problem.

 

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Oops, i missed that in my original reading of the OP. If the rear wheel has enough resistance to think that the brake is sticking, i would seriously think there is a stuck rear brake component that is keeping the light AND the caliper activated a bit.

 

DR, thanks for the heads up on the normally open switches. I wasn't sure, different bikes use different systems.

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Since the switch is mechanically activated by the pedal, assuming that the brake is dragging, then it must be something preventing the pedal from returning to the off position.

 

Some have reported that small stones can get caught between the pedal and the switch, causing problems.

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Most appreciative of responses.....will make a final report once I get the right side panel off and hopefuly get this resolved. Thanks to all.

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A shot of lube (LPS,WD,etc) on the switch plunger, and work the brake pedal a few times after should help. Have to do this to the K every once in awhile, since it's exposed to road/rain spray.

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