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changing the oil filter


Oss

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Bought the bmw oil filter adapter for taking the filter off and some bosch filters but noticed the filter that is in there (its a santa monica PD 1150RTP) has what looks like a wierd bolt head sticking out of the middle of the filter.

 

The filter removing tool does not fit Found out after draining after 2 qts out from the drain plug.

 

What size/type tool do I use so I dont strip anything. Thought it might be a 17mm but I was wrong.

 

Also do you change the oil on the sidestand or centerstand? On my Valkyrie I put a block of wood under the sidestand to change the oil

 

TIA

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Just get a socket that fits the bolt head and go to town. Use a 6 point socket if you have it. A 12 point socket may strip the fitting on the filter if the filter is on too tight. Use the center stand. Have Fun.

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Afternoon Oss

 

That sounds like a non BMW oil filter. Probably a K&N filter. Just find a socket that fits that center nut and screw the filter off.

If it is a K&N be fairly careful as they have a bad habit of that lightly attached center nut twisting off the filter before the filter comes loose. If it is a K&N there will be no perimeter flutes to get a cup wrench on so removal becomes a pain. (a strap wrench will usually get it loose but not without some cussing and thrashing)

 

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If you have trouble getting it off (perhaps because the previous wrench forgot to put oil on the filter gasket prior to install) you may end up with something like this:

 

bad_K&N.jpg

 

Hope that yours goes more easily!

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One method you can use is to find a wrench or socket that fits the hex head of the filter. Tap it on nice and snug BEFORE trying to turn the filter. As you start to put pressure on the wrench or socket, use a ball peen hammer and strike the filter with the ball head of the hammer while you try to turn the wrench with pressure. The two forces will loosen the filter where sometimes just turning hard with the wrench or socket might strip the hex head on the filter. Pressure and shock will get it. If that doesnt work, noncomps bolt method works or you can drive a screw driver in on one side on an angle jsut make sure you dont punch the the otherside so hard you bash your cases.

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Evening Kmac

 

Unfortunately most of the oil filters with nuts spot welded on don’t have that HEX that a conventional oil filter wrench fits. Just note the K&N filter shown in NonComp’s picture above (no hex).

 

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The filter removing tool does not fit Found out after draining after 2 qts out from the drain plug.

TIA

 

Not that you want to hear this comment (and I'm not trying to come accross as a wise-ass) but I ALWAYS losen and or remove the filter before draining oil in case the filter wants to be a pain (either car or bike)....and I always do it right after running, hot filter usually comes off easier, oil flows better blah blah...good luck sir.

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The filter removing tool does not fit Found out after draining after 2 qts out from the drain plug.

TIA

 

Not that you want to hear this comment (and I'm not trying to come accross as a wise-ass) but I ALWAYS losen and or remove the filter before draining oil in case the filter wants to be a pain (either car or bike)....and I always do it right after running, hot filter usually comes off easier, oil flows better blah blah...good luck sir.

 

Great advice ;) The aluminum case expands more than the steel in the filter ;)

 

When I last changed the oil in my 1100RT, I was very tired and did not notice that the seal on the old oil filter did not come off with it. I installed the new filter over the old seal that sticked to the engine. When fired it up, lots of oil got on the garage floor :)

 

Dan.

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I like to spray a bit of carb or brake clean spray up there and wipe the surface off with a rag where the seal hits the case. This helps in 2 ways for me. One way is that if you do this as part of your filter change routine you can avoid the accidental filter oring getting left inside. And second, sometimes there is a brownish gummy residue where the oring seal hits the cases, and the spray cleaner will clean this off and hopefully reduce the chance of the new seal from sticking and making it so hard to get off on the next oil change.

 

We discussed this in another thread... I still believe it is not neccesary to tighten the filter very much.

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If all else fails a screwdriver can be driven through the filter case to turn it out.
Sometimes, it is not that easy on an oilhead. The filter is recessed in a well. I bent those lag bolts trying to free that filter with a cheater bar. Those bolts penetrate the full length of the filter.
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Nope sometimes it isn't easy, but one time it was the last resort that worked. Filter socket wrench didn't fit; Pliers would not hold; Strap wrench, won't fit; Weld nut on filter, too dangerous; Punch in screwdriver at angle worked. Lag bolts? All I remember in filters is a hollow threaded tube, flat springs,and some glue for fasteners?

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The lag bolts (pictured above) followed the 3" screws that I originally tried. I had screwed a piece of 2x2 to the bottom of filter. The screws tore out and the wood split. The bolt on the left is bent as a result of prying with a cheater bar - not inserted at an angle.

 

Always oil the gasket prior to installation...

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I have a pair of large channel lock pliers and I haven't met a filter they could't take off.

Of course the old filter looked like hell, but it was headed for the trash anyway.

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I have a pair of large channel lock pliers and I haven't met a filter they could't take off.

Of course the old filter looked like hell, but it was headed for the trash anyway.

 

It would be an interesting trick to get channel lock jaws onto an Oilhead filter, with it sitting in the recess that it does.

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Take a large punch and indent the filter on 2 opposing sides, stick the ends of the channel lock pliers up in between the cases and the filter, squeeze and rotate....where there is a will there is a way. The filter is not so deep up inside of the well that you cant get to the end of it with the screw driver trick or the channel locks.

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I have. I took a putty knife and slid it up between the filter and the housing. Then took small flat chisel and slide it up in and worked it back and forth until the filter casing started to bend. Did the same thing to the other side.

Then started grabbing the filter with the pliers until I had something to work with. Kept at it until the filter broke loose.

I was determined to get the damn thing off, one way or the other.

Necessity is the mother of invention....

 

I have a pair of large channel lock pliers and I haven't met a filter they could't take off.

Of course the old filter looked like hell, but it was headed for the trash anyway.

 

It would be an interesting trick to get channel lock jaws onto an Oilhead filter, with it sitting in the recess that it does.

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I have read of a number of foul ups that occurred when driving a screwdriver into an oilhead filter that resulted in busting a hole in the crankcase. Glad it worked for you guys......But I would be careful jamming anything extra in next to the filter. Breaking the thin aluminum in this area would make the filter removal difficulty the least of your problems. Just sayin'.

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When I was a kid, we used to turn our bicycles over, balancing them on the seat and handlebars, so that we could change a tire or lube the chain.

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I did not think of that even Though I too have a large pair of channelocks that I did try to get on there. An old water pump plier I have actually works if you can find one somewhere and hold on to it after you find one. They seem to be borrowed constantly. I have never used one on a water pump?

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