Splitting the RT to do the clutch

[RoSPA_man]

I will soon attempt the clutch replacement. The BMW CD shows a frame to suspend the rear part of the bike, but I am assuming that when doing it at home, I will just need a good engine support for the front and should be able to remove all the pieces (rear wheel, FD, swinging arm etc.)so as to eventually gain access to the transmission etc. In other words, no hanging of the rear end should be needed?

[NewBlue]

If you look on the bottom of the engine there are threaded boses I would guess 8X1.25mm. You can get some angle stock and make a fixture to support the front of the bike if you don't want to suspend it. Just a thought.

[RoSPA_man]

If you look on the bottom of the engine there are threaded boses I would guess 8X1.25mm. You can get some angle stock and make a fixture to support the front of the bike if you don't want to suspend it. Just a thought.

 

Thanks New Blue. I can imagine the front will be easy to support in a variety of ways. My question though is whether I must at any point in the procedure suspend the back half - I can't see why it should be necessary if one removes the various items and "words inwards" to the clutch piece by piece from the rear light.

[NewBlue]

If you look on the bottom of the engine there are threaded boses I would guess 8X1.25mm. You can get some angle stock and make a fixture to support the front of the bike if you don't want to suspend it. Just a thought.

 

Thanks New Blue. I can imagine the front will be easy to support in a variety of ways. My question though is whether I must at any point in the procedure suspend the back half - I can't see why it should be necessary if one removes the various items and "words inwards" to the clutch piece by piece from the rear light.

 

I looked at the procedure as shown on the BMW disc, while back, IIRC the center stand stays with the back half so that will support it. If that is the case it might be a little tipsy so be careful.

 

Rechecked the disc and the stand does stay with the back half, might want to cut V notches in a block of wood to jam the stand from retracting. Better safe then sorry.

[SuperG]

Just run regular motorcycle tie-downs (2) to the front wheel.

It will prevent the center stand from collapsing on you.

[NewBlue]

Just run regular motorcycle tie-downs (2) to the front wheel.

It will prevent the center stand from collapsing on you.

 

Yeah but he's going to split the bike in half.

[RodB]

Forget about lifting and/or supporting the rear end, just remove. Also forget about your center stand, it will no longer be there either. Take a look at this page and you will see what it should look like when you reach the clutch.

[NewBlue]

Forget about lifting and/or supporting the rear end, just remove. Also forget about your center stand, it will no longer be there either. Take a look at this page and you will see what it should look like when you reach the clutch.

 

WOW, read that thread. Sorry that happened and hope everything turned out well. Thread ended without saying but I guess that's the bike in your avatar?

[RodB]

Yeah, maybe I forgot about reporting the end of story from that breakdown, but so far, so good.

The parts I got on Ebay were a Godsend (never saw those exact parts I needed, for sale, either before or after I broke down).

I basically needed the whole transmission except the front housing, which was still good.

This guy from British Columbia was selling a whole transmission minus the front housing.

I got them at a very good price ($350) and have been riding trouble free for 24K km's since the repair.

[Ebbo]

You can use a trolley jack to support the front end while removing the rear but you must tie the bars ether up to a beam or down to the ground because it’s very wobbly. A bolt on engine support would be great if you could make one up.

The rear end will come off standing on the rear wheel and center stand but you need to jamb wood under the rear wheel to take up the gap between it and the ground, then roll the rear end backward to clear.

The electrical couplers that attach to the rear mudguard are released with little triggers underneath so you can fully release the loom from the bike rear end..

Watch out for hidden tiewraps and cables as you separate the two halves, you maybe surprised what you find still attached.

Cap the end of the rear brake pipe near the swing arm when removed or all the oil from the upper brake system may drain down, it’s not a disaster, just a slowly developing mess (that may strip paint!).

Take loads of pictures as it comes apart to help you put it back together properly as some cables and pipe runs can go various ways.

 

I should warn you, it can be a slow process separating the two halves as it might not want to come apart, likewise, when putting it together again, you have to engage the gearbox in to the clutch plate spline and work the whole lot back together, it can be difficult to judge when it just needs a bit more persuasion or it’s stuck/try again…

 

Good luck

 

[Ken H.]

Just run regular motorcycle tie-downs (2) to the front wheel.

It will prevent the center stand from collapsing on you.

The center stand trick only works for the R1100xx and R1150xx series. On the R120xx series the CS comes off with the rear sub-frame.