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Replacing clutch hose


Frustrated_Diver

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Frustrated_Diver

Dear Wrenchers,

 

This morning the braided clutch hose on my 2007 R1200RT with almost 42,000 miles apparently failed and now i have no way to shift. Can someone with limited mechanical skills and even more limited tools replace it (that would be me)?

 

Removing the plastic and even the tank is within my skill set. But, once i get the innards exposed does it take special knowledge and/or tools to put a new hose on? How about replacing the fluid which mostly is now not in the system but on it?

 

Getting the bike out of the garage and onto a trailer will be a big challenge because i’m alone. So, fixing it where it sits would be the simpler safer solution.

 

Rick

 

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See the parts fiche here. Both ends of this hose (item 1) is fixed with banjo bolts. The banjo bolt seals (item 3 qty 4) should be replaced also.

Bleed system with proper fluid, test, reinstall tupperware & ride.

 

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As above, not a difficult job, just intimidating. The one trick I would suggest is to not over tighten the banjo bolts. The spec is 18 nm or about 12 ft/lbs for the 10mm banjo fittings. The bleeding should be an easy task, determine from your owners manual if you use mineral oil base clutch fluid or just the standard DOT 4 brake fluid. I don't remember and you don't want to mix them up. And use new crush washers at those banjo connections. buena suerte

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Don_Eilenberger

An '07 any R1200 uses mineral oil. Brake fluid will ruin the system. Dealers sell the mineral oil for a lot of $$$. Magura sells the same oil for a lot less $$$. You can also find it at Ducati dealers.

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No they don't say, that is one of the reasons they moved to mineral oil because it does not take in water like brake fluid. I suspect you can go a very long time with no flushing.

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Frustrated_Diver

Okay the hose is on order from the local dealer who is also the local Ducati outlet. Now i have a follow up question.

 

No auto parts store i’ve visited has mineral oil but the local pharmacy does. Is there any difference (additives) in the BMW stuff or is the human grade stuff okay to use? The reservoir cap specifies mineral oil and the owner’s manual is silent on the subject.

 

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Don't be a dummy and do expesive damage to your bike- you could end up dumping clutch fluid on your clutch and you do not want to pay for a replacment- you have to take the bike half appart to change it.

Read Don's first note! When they say mineral oil they are referring to a type of hydraulic fluid and there are possible subs- but not at a pharmacy!

Considering that the clutch fluid only needs to be replaced or added to at infrequent events of system repair, its not a big deal to use the right stuff, whether from Ducati, a hydraulic shop that knows enough to provide a true equivalent, or a BMW dealer.

 

Brake fluid will defintely eat stuff and be a very expensive lesson..

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