Jump to content
IGNORED

Did a brake flush on my 1200RT today.


Smoky

Recommended Posts

Last week I got the mini-stan, and a video explaining the process. I also downloaded some good instructions off the 'net.

 

My friend came over with his '03 1150RS, and we got to work.

 

I've had the tupperware off several times, but this was a first to remove the gastank. It was easier than I expected.

 

Going slow and cautious, we did the complete flush of my bike in a little less than 2 hours. The old fluid was quite clean, but it's comforting to have the new stuff in there.

 

The RS went much faster, as we were confident, and out technique was getting better. His old fluid was dark, but not nasty. All done in an hour.

 

But getting those quick connects on the fuel lines of the RS is a real struggle. No room to work, and no give in the lines.

 

I swear it is faster to put a RT back together than the RS.

 

My bike now has new oil, back tire, FD fluid, and now brake flush,

 

I guess it's time to go for a ride.

 

 

Link to comment

Congrats!

 

Must be a feeling of accomplishment! and those that contribute the "how to do" make it possible.

 

Cheers

 

by the way... Did you end up with and left over body work screws? If not, awesome!

 

 

Link to comment

www.mcmaster.com funnel part number 4005T5

 

Vent Hose Cover BMW part number 34517674836

 

Order and make your own.

 

You'll need to drill out the vent hose cap (you get two of them) and push the funnel stem in the hole you drilled out. Some guys also use rubber stoppers intead of the vent hose cap. I don't trust the stopper technique, but it is a less expensive alternative.

Link to comment

I concur what limecreek said about the a rubber plug and funnel.

 

1)I attempted using the rubber plug an it leaked. Messy.

2) when you drill out a rubber plug it makes lots of fine powdery dust/residue, some are not easy to remove from the drill site. the last thing you want is some rubber pieces getting into the abs /servo motor system.

 

However the reservoirs hold a good amount of fluid. If you don't go crazy with the power assisted pump on the 05-06 models you will be fine, if you have a helper, she/he can easily keep filling the reservoir with fluid keeping it near to the max level. I did it by my self with no issues.

For me the trick was to pump out some fliud refill the reservoir and repeat. I used up a 12 once brake fluid container for the wheel circuit and little over 6 once for the wheel circuit.

The fluid was clean throughout the flush, so some one before me must have done a flush.

 

My recommendations:

-Work in well lit area, and/or use a head-band type LED light.

-Start with an almost empty gas tank prior to disassembly - I didn't, it was painful putting it back 7 lb x8 gallon = 56 pounds.

-Have paper towel nearby in case of a leak or spill and a small thin screw driver or pick in case you need to direct paper towel into small areas to soak up brake fluid.

- On the servo motor reservoir- I removed the small/fine filter from the reservoir filler and mighty vac-ed the entire old brake fluid first. (I cleaned the needle noise pliers well prior to sticking it in the brake fluid reservoir)

 

-Watch the cruise control cable when reinstalling the gas tank. It is easy to push it out its normal routing and get it to bend or have it pinched.

 

If you have a mighty-vac use it!

I hooked nice long plastic hose to the mighty-vac one end was tight on the bleeder screw the other end drained into the mighty vac container( no vacuum applied at this time).

You can hear the brake fluid draining/falling into the mighty-vac canister and you can see if there is bubbles. when you are done, close the bleeder screw , hit the vacuum and lift off the hose from the bleeder screw. No mess,no bags or bottles to knock over o or spill.

 

 

 

Link to comment
Last week I got the mini-stan, and a video explaining the process. I also downloaded some good instructions off the 'net.

 

My friend came over with his '03 1150RS, and we got to work.

 

I've had the tupperware off several times, but this was a first to remove the gastank. It was easier than I expected.

 

Going slow and cautious, we did the complete flush of my bike in a little less than 2 hours. The old fluid was quite clean, but it's comforting to have the new stuff in there.

 

The RS went much faster, as we were confident, and out technique was getting better. His old fluid was dark, but not nasty. All done in an hour.

 

But getting those quick connects on the fuel lines of the RS is a real struggle. No room to work, and no give in the lines.

 

I swear it is faster to put a RT back together than the RS.

 

My bike now has new oil, back tire, FD fluid, and now brake flush,

 

I guess it's time to go for a ride.

 

 

I appreciate the info. Can you post a link to the web info you used and the mini-stan? Thank you. This is the only maint. task I was too scared to try.

Link to comment

Thanks for that link.

 

On the control circuits front and rear, you still do the 1,2,3 and 1 again sequence?

 

see on above posted link on page 15 , paragraph 6, bleeding the metering circuits.

 

I thought they changed that to just bleeding through the control circuit and the sequence was only necessary if brake system opened such as the ABS unit replacement.

 

I think I read that on the BMW reprom.

 

Am I wrong?

 

 

Link to comment
Smoky,

Where did you get the video? I have the PDF, but would love to see a video. It's the only maint. I have not done on my RT yet...

 

+1 I fear the brake flush

Link to comment

I got the video from the same place I got the mini-stan, Beemer Boneyard.

 

It was on sale, and delivery was very quick.

 

It was only after the package arrived that I thought of some other things I could have included in the order!

Link to comment

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...