2010 and newer Valve adjust

[Beech]

Here is a link the is better than any I have seen, (may be old news to you guys?) Pictures on how to adjust the new shim type valves. I think it is easier and less chance of error. I bet it will hold its adjustment two or three times longer than tappets. The factory may not change its recommendation of 6000 mile intervals due to costs of having new schedules EPA certified or it just plain doesn't go further, we will see. Anyway good photos supplied by a generous BMW dealer.

http://sanjosebmw.smugmug.com/Other/Tech-pictures/10976964_bHf66/1#767209614_WupU9

[Bruce H]

Good photos, What is the tolerance before changing the shim is required?

[Dave_zoom_zoom]

San Jose BMW!!! :clap:

[Beech]

Just got the data. Valves inlet .13 to .23mm, exhaust .30 to .40mm. When pulling the plug cover pry down on the top carefully to un do the tab then pull out, pulling the bottom causes tabs to break. Spark plug is 14mm across the flats.

[Beech]

So I just checked my valve clearance on the 2010 RT. I have a metric feeler gauge set with individual feelers that have the nifty little plastic handles all different colors for the size stamped on them. Increments of .05mm except for one that is .08mm. All my valves were just almost exactly the same. The intakes were: a .15mm gauge would fit in and a .20mm gauge would not; on the exhausts a .35mm would fit in and a .40 would not. This puts them all in spec and very close to each other. (much like I found on my K1300S) The factory does a superior job setting up the clearances. I also have on hand one each of all the sizes of the shims except for the 2 sizes on each end of the spread. Next parts purchase I will get those too. I have a bunch of these on hand because I work on other peoples bikes (K bikes) and now RT's for them. One more point, I think it is important to use a coil puller rather than pliers or a screw driver to pull the spark plug coil. Too expensive of an item to crack or mess with. The few tools you need for this job will more than pay for themselves the first time you do the job and you can have fun too! Even if you don't have a shim selection and need to run to the dealer for a part or have it mailed to you it is worth it. Looking at the way the shims work in the finger and against the valve tip (top) I suspect the shims should not be re used. They must take a set to their particular rocker finger. Something I will inquire about with someone who knows something. buena suerte

[PMFLAR]

I WOULD THINK THE SHIM'S WOULD BE REUSABLE, ON THE OLD GERMAN CAR'S VW AND AUDI THEY WERE. AFTER A LOT OF MILES SOMETIMES THE NUMBERS WOULD WEAR OFF AND YOU WOULD HAVE TO MIC THEM OUT TO SEE WHAT THEY WERE, THEY WERE VERY HARD AND DIDN'T WEAR.

[Beech]

I agree in principal but these shims have a round butt that fits into a socket on the finger. Also the cam lobe is not flat but cut at about a 20* angle to the axis of the cam shaft. The finger being parallel to the cam lobe surface but about 20* off from the top of the valve. So there is now an oscillating movement of the shim in its socket from the normal rocking of the set up and it is off center now, maybe to make things turn and wear evenly? Now if there is no wear anywhere and everything is made the same no problem but I see that in a real world potential problems. Hard to see in the photos but an interesting shock when I went to put the feeler gauge in. A flat shim just sits there and looks dumb no movement to speak of.

[dirtrider]

Evening Beeh

 

The rocker arm is always slightly off center to the valve stem center to rotate the valve as it opens and closes. Almost all valves are contacted slightly off center for that reason.

 

The rocker surface that rides on the angled cam lobe is angled but the rocker arm itself had better swing at the same angle as the valve depresses or it won’t follow the valve as it opens.

 

I think you will find the valves are also angled in the head the same as the rocker arm movement angle, at least they better be. That is the reason for the angled cam lobes as the new engine has angled valves and the rockers need to follow them.

 

As far as that shim wearing, it rotates in the arm pocket and on the valve head due to the valve to shim offset so I don’t see how it would wear uneven.

 

Bet your local dealer just trades the size as needed for a take out from a bag full he keeps from other valve adjustments. I needed one for a friends camhead and the dealer just traded me one from his technician’s stock of takeouts and it miked out right on target.

 

 

[Beech]

I have a K bike also and we swap hemi shims there. But you need to take a look at an HP head or one of these New 2010 Heads and you will see what I mean, I am not talking the little offset normally seen. And with the spherical shim contacting the valve stem the need for straight on contact by the contact surface is eliminated.

Take a look at the last picture on page two of the link and you can see that the cam lobe tapers to the left quit a bit, the finger axis parallels this angle and the valves do not. But I will take another hard look at the valves and get out some instruments just for fun.

 

http://sanjosebmw.smugmug.com/Other/Tech-pictures/10976964_bHf66/1#P-2-10

[dirtrider]

Evening again Beech

 

I have adjusted the valves on the camhead and don’t see a wear issue as far as those shims are concerned.

 

That rocker arm must swing at the same angle as the valve depresses or the rocker won’t follow and stay on the valve top as the valve moves in. If the rocker moves at a different angle than the valve they will end up in a different place at full valve stroke.

 

[Beech]

You know I think your right, I was just thinking about your comments and because the cam shaft does both the intake and exhaust valves it must have a cam lobe that is related to each valve angle and thus the taper. I was going down the wrong path. More interesting German engineering. A snap to check the clearance and not much more to change it. thanks for the comments. beech

[dirtrider]

Evening once again Beech

 

That is an interesting cam to rocker arrangement as the cam center line and rocker arm pivot centerline are not on the same plane. The rocker to valve angle is the same but the rocker travels at an angle in relation to the camshaft.

You would think there would be lot of side thrust load on the rocker arm due to the angle difference between the cam lobe and rocker arm as well as the possibility of rocker pivot lateral wear causing valve lash changes but so far that engine design has been in service long enough to show any major shortcomings and it looks like no big issues showing up.

 

I’ll bet BMW engineering was real nervous about that design when they released it to the public until they got some real world field data back showing not a lot of issues.

 

 

[Bullett]

Please forgive me if this is a stupid question, but I'm trying to understand how this works. The issue is the valve wear as it recedes into the head, is that correct? So valve adjustments are basically based on valve wear not spacer wear?

 

Is this design similar to other bikes that use some type of spacer, like the F-bikes?

 

Thanks.

 

 

[dirtrider]

Please forgive me if this is a stupid question, but I'm trying to understand how this works. The issue is the valve wear as it recedes into the head, is that correct? So valve adjustments are basically based on valve wear not spacer wear?

 

Is this design similar to other bikes that use some type of spacer, like the F-bikes?

 

Thanks.

 

Morning Sharon

 

Good question, on most motorcycles the valve recession is greater than the valve train wear so predominately the valve clearance closes up or gets smaller with added mileage.

 

Too soon to tell if this holds true on the 1200 camhead engines. On the camhead there seems to be “different” areas for valve train wear than on the old push rod types. At least at first look it seems that way due to the angular cam lobes and matching angular rocker arm wear areas.

 

So to answer your question? I don’t have enough high mile data to know the answer yet. On the camhead that I have checked and adjusted the valves on they all but one was still in spec at 6K. The one exhaust valve that was out was still within spec but right on the tight side limit.

 

On most of my shim and bucket bikes or shim adjusted valve bikes I set them to maximum clearance as they tend to close up over miles ridden. I’m not sure what the wear direction is on the 1200 camhead so the one I set I set to the loose side of nominal. I did do a full check using different thickness feeler gauges and wrote the data down for the owner so he can track the direction of wear in the future.

 

My long standing motto is to set valves to the loose side as a little loose is way better than a little tight.

 

 

[NewBlue]

Because BMW is using a finger follower the length and angle of the follower in relation to the valve stem will change with the angle of the follower. Thus the reason for the semispherical shim.

 

Valve clearance changes for two reasons, wear or deposits/build-up. Wear on the valve face or seat will decrease the clearance.

Deposits on the valve face or seat will increae the clearance.

Wear above the face/seat (stem, cam, shim, follower) will increase the clearance.

Deposits above the face/seat (stem, cam, shim, follower) will decreae the clearance - not likely.

[DailyRider]

I'll be checking the valves on my 2010 gs this week but I was wondering if anybody knew what is the torque for the valves cover bolts? thanks

[pdes]

 

 

I don’t have enough high mile data to know the answer yet. On the camhead that I have checked and adjusted the valves on they all but one was still in spec at 6K.

 

 

I have 16k miles on mine. Fancy popping over to the UK for a look? :-) I don't trust my dealer to do a good job but don't want to strip it down at home as I cannot be without the bike if I need to wait for new shims.