FP controller - planning for failure?

[Sailorlite]

Lately it seems that intermittent or failed fuel pump controllers are becoming more common.

 

I carry a Burns jumper assembly and think I know how to rig it up if necessary. But, and I'm embarrassed to admit this, I've never removed any of the tupperware on the hexhead RT. So I'm seeking recommendations as to which piece(s) to remove in order to get access to the FPC. Are there any T25 drivers or bits that I probably won't have with me? This is supposed to be fairly easy, but not necessarily easy for me. (Also, I'm counting on the proposition that if you're well prepared then it won't happen to you). Thanks.

[dirtrider]

Evening Sailorlite

 

You only need to remove the L/H upper Tupperware. One screw in the rear (top screw), then two under the front facing outward by the oil cooler, and one by the speaker.

 

Then a torx 20 to remove the FPC and you can remove the FPC and hook up your jumper.

 

Edit: if you want to completely remove that panel you will also have to disconnect the power outlet wiring connector from the outlet. If you have a radio you will also have to deal with radio panel wire harness

 

[johnlt]

What dirtrider said and add that you can rotate the panel up and lay it on the handle bars such that you don't need to disconnect the powerlet conector or any of the radio connectors. Just replaced mine a couple weeks ago and it was a piece o cake.

[hopz]

... you have to remove the tank rail first...

[dirtrider]

... you have to remove the tank rail first...

 

Afternoon Hopz

 

No, the tank rail can stay in place. The tank rail only needs to come off if you want to continue on and remove the lower Tupperware also. Only the upper needs to come off to access the FPC and FPC connectors.

 

[CoarsegoldKid]

So what is this Burns jumper you speak of. Markgoodrich and johnlt told me about some jumper but it needs to be fabricated. Is there a fabrication parts list roaming around?

[johnlt]

If you don't have a "bad" module to scavenge the connectors from, you can buy one of these:

 

Link

 

It has the connector that connects to the mate in the bottom of the cavity (fuel pump) and the other end is either an SAE or BMW accessory plug which supplies power.

[JayW]

Link

 

That link has an interesting link of its own in regards to controller failures. The interesting part is that the number of reported failures in the UK increases each year from model years 2004 through 2008. The reported failure rates are as follows:

2004: 7

2005: 17

2006: 33

2007: 58

2008: 133

2009: 101

 

I wonder how statistically accurate this is, but the earlier model years seemed to have more reliable controllers. 2008 seems to be a particularly problematic year. Hmmmm.

 

Jay

[CoarsegoldKid]

If you don't have a "bad" module to scavenge the connectors from, you can buy one of these:

 

Link

 

It has the connector that connects to the mate in the bottom of the cavity (fuel pump) and the other end is either an SAE or BMW accessory plug which supplies power.

 

Thanks John. A jumper like this is easy to carry. A FD or complete FP assembly not so much.

[dirtrider]

So what is this Burns jumper you speak of. Markgoodrich and johnlt told me about some jumper but it needs to be fabricated. Is there a fabrication parts list roaming around?

 

 

Afternoon Joe

 

If you Don’t want to buy a jumper harness just make a harness that connects directly to the battery or to the Accessory Plug on the later 10 amp RT’ s. Make it pluggable to obtain at least 10 amps of power. Then (IF) you have a FPC failure just cut the existing plug off your present controller and connect that to your homemade harness.

That is what I did until I had an FPC failure now I have a dedicated plug.

 

Yellow wire is B+, Blue wire is ground