K12GT accident now it won't start

[rce2303]

I recently bought a 2003 K1200GT at auction as a salvaged bike due to an obvious accident involving mostly the left side. It's a complete bike aside from a busted master cylinder hand clutch.

When I turn the key to the "on" position, I get the lights to the instrument panel with a rapidly blinking red ABS light. After a few seconds it changes to a slower but constantly blinking red ABS light.

 

The starter button works. The headlight and taillight work. The left side blinker/hazards work. The right side blinker control and blinker kill switch do not work, i.e. I cannot turn on the right side blinkers and cannot turn off the left hand blinkers due to the unresponsive blinker kill switch on the right hand controls.

I drained and replaced the gas. I replaced the busted clutch master cylinder and used a speed bleeder to bleed/prime the clutch. I also changed the oil and oil filter (just in case there was gas in the oil).

 

The Odyssey battery still holds a strong charge verified with a digital battery tester. The bike is in neutral, the sidestand switch is up, the engine cutoff switch is set to the run position. Fuses are good. All of the electrical connections are snug/tight.

When I first turn the key to "on" I hear the ABS cycle but not the fuel pump. I tested the wires going to the fuel pump and there's no power going to it when I turn the key on. I pulled the spark plugs and used a spark plug tester to verify that I wasn't getting a spark to any of them. I noticed that I'm getting strong compression in each cylinder each time I try to crank it but no spark and no gas to the spark plugs. The plugs are completely dry after multiple attempts at starting.

 

Is it possible that the accident triggered a "fuel cut-off" switch or some other master safety switch that disables the bike from receiving spark and gas? Is there a way to check the ignition system on this bike relatively easily with basic tools or do I need a diagnostic tool like the GS-911 that I've been reading about? Should I order a GS-911 (or something similar) and try to reset everything myself or is this something that only a trained mechanic can deal with? Could this be part of an alarm system that disables the engine....hmmmmmm

 

I'm trying to get this thing running on a budget (I have more time than money) so it would be great if I could fix this myself. If anyone's in the Austin, TX willing to take a look at this and maybe feels like drinking a few beers while we get 'er done.......... well, that would be alright too.

Thanks in Advance,

Robert

[Satguy]

Well, I'm in Canada and can't personally take a look at your bike.

 

But, Here are a few hints.

 

There is no fuel cutoff on your bike, pump should run when key is turned on and starter button depressed.

 

You said that there is a problem with the RHS switch pod and the turn signals cancel button does not work. That pod also contains the engine stop switch, so I would start checking the wiring to that switch pod and take the pod off the bars and check it for damage. You will most likely find your problem there.

 

No need to take out spark plugs etc. unless you can get the fuel pump to run these bikes will not start ever!

 

I would not advise buying a GS-911 for your bike. It is a great tool, but your bike has very little diagnostic information saved in the engine management computer that you can use. On the newer bikes, there is far more information available from the various controllers.

[Calvin (no socks)]

No spark and no gas...watch the tach and see if it indicates any rpm...the control unit needs to see rpm prior to energizing fuel system.

[StuGotz]

Fuel pump fuse..

 

MB>

[hopz]

All the stuff other than the Fuel Pump is either irrelevant or to be dealt with later... figure that one out first then see where you are.

 

If you are ready to give up on the project... let me know and maybe I'll take it off your hands for a small gratuity...

[Dennis Andress]

Pull off the tupperware if you haven't already. Find the fuel pump electrical connector on the ride side of the bike, underneath the fuel tank. Disconnect it and measure for voltage when you turn the key on. There should be a short pulse. If not, the fuel pump circuit is opened when the side stand is down. Check the switch on the side stand, and related wiring.

 

It's interesting that the damage 'mostly on the left side' yet some of the switches on the right grip don't work. With the tupperware off, inspect all of the wiring in the nose cowl area. Take the fuel tank off. The electrical junction box is on the right side of the frame just behind the radiator, inspect the wiring there too.

 

If the bike has set for any length of time, remove the fuel pump and replace the fuel filter. On that same note, fuel pumps are known to seize if left sitting in old fuel. The pump pieces are made to a tight tolerance, any corrosion from moisture in the fuel and it's all over.

 

I'm not sure about checking for spark the old fashioned way of removing the plugs and watching for an arch. I either haven't had a need to do it in a long time, or found the results to be too inconsistent to trust. Can't remember which... You might try reading the voltage at the +12VDC terminal of the coil, and then watching that it switches on and off as the engine cranks.

 

Good luck.

 

Dennis