Changing my clutch on 2007 RT

[RoSPA_man]

I'm getting ready to do my clutch replacement. I intend to do it myself. Looking at the microfiche A&S here, I am assuming that the maximum parts needed to be replaced are parts No 4,5,6,7 shown there and that 1,2 and 3 do not wear or get heat damage etc. Is that correct? I'm thinking of going the Wunderlich sintered route so it would seem that I must (should??) change both the outer clutch cover and the pressure plate as a pair - is that correct?

What else will I need - lubes and centering tool I assume?

Many thanks

[Hall Vince]

Be interested to read how you get on with it Hugh. What milage you done.?

\v/

[RoSPA_man]

Be interested to read how you get on with it Hugh. What milage you done.?

\v/

 

52K miles but the engage point is right out at the end of travel- I think it slipped once about 3 weeks ago, but 2K miles later, no recurrence but it can only be a matter of time, so I'm 'going in'!

[CoarsegoldKid]

I can't help but was wonder if there are any shafts or splines or bushings that should get a dab of grease?

One day I'll be doing the same thing so I will be watching your progress if you decide to post. Pics!

[Nesbocaj]

Going to R&R the clutch slave cylinder while you are there? I would..

[ProductUser]

52k miles seems a bit low for a clutch to wear out, eh?

 

Tony

[Hall Vince]

I was kinda hoping not to have to split my bike for some miles yet

 

I'll be at 52k sometime next year, but am very careful to get the clutch engaged as soon as possible.

 

Hugh, It's interesting as what you describe (aside form the clutch lever bite point which I can't recall) on my R12ST I had similar clutch slip. Twice in the 30,000 miles I put on the bike.

 

I could dump the clutch on a quick get away and it would not bite instantly, but seem to slip a fraction.

 

I pinned the throttle at 6k once out of a roundabout in France in a (vain) attempt to keep my mates on R1's. K7 Gixxer and new Blades in sight on a stretch of road and had the rev counter climbing without the associated road speed. But couldn't replicate it again later.

 

I had an oil "mist" around the engine/gearbox join since I bought the bike with 3k on the clock and it never got worse or to a point where oil dripped. Discussion with BMW mechanic at CW's left me with advice to leave it until oil dripped or complete loss of drive. It did another 20k before I sold the bike with no further issues.

 

My thoughts are the bike would occasioanly get some oil on the plate, and this is why I had a fraction of slip if I dumped the clutch and the occasion when there was obvious slip at high load.

 

My current RT does not exhibit any clutch slippage as I describe of my ST.

 

I wonder Hugh that when you dismantle your RT that you find some evidence of oil weepage and this could be the cause.

 

Tho the lever travel is a question. as it's hydraulic, I thought like the brakes as friction surface is used then a bit more fluid is used to take up wear with no lever travel change?

I think you tried removing a little fluid before didn't you as did I on my ST as it was advised that as clutch wears the level rises to add to confusion?

 

Even if not I think it's wise to replace engine output seals and gearbox in/out seals with the newer version that BMW now supply as they are fairly cheap in comparison to other parts.

\v/

 

[Nomad Indy]

Had to replace the transmission, bad input bearing, 62,000 miles.

Replace the clutch while I was there, no real problem with the clutch still weel within specs but replace it because I had the bike apart.

Major undertaking to replace the clutch.

I have been a mechanic heavy industry and had my own car and motorcycle repare business for a few years

If you are inexperienced with mechanics, good luck on a BMW.

The drive shaft dissconnection and reinstallation can be real tricky, best to disconnect the final drive, as in a final drive oil change to begin with.

You will need an engine hoist or as I did build a temporary gantry crane to remove the back of the bike.

Replacing the transmission seals takes the same work as replacing the clutch, if there is a question replace them while you are there.

[RoSPA_man]

I was kinda hoping not to have to split my bike for some miles yet

 

I'll be at 52k sometime next year, but am very careful to get the clutch engaged as soon as possible.

 

Hugh, It's interesting as what you describe (aside form the clutch lever bite point which I can't recall) on my R12ST I had similar clutch slip. Twice in the 30,000 miles I put on the bike.

 

I could dump the clutch on a quick get away and it would not bite instantly, but seem to slip a fraction.

 

I pinned the throttle at 6k once out of a roundabout in France in a (vain) attempt to keep my mates on R1's. K7 Gixxer and new Blades in sight on a stretch of road and had the rev counter climbing without the associated road speed. But couldn't replicate it again later.

 

I had an oil "mist" around the engine/gearbox join since I bought the bike with 3k on the clock and it never got worse or to a point where oil dripped. Discussion with BMW mechanic at CW's left me with advice to leave it until oil dripped or complete loss of drive. It did another 20k before I sold the bike with no further issues.

 

My thoughts are the bike would occasioanly get some oil on the plate, and this is why I had a fraction of slip if I dumped the clutch and the occasion when there was obvious slip at high load.

 

My current RT does not exhibit any clutch slippage as I describe of my ST.

 

I wonder Hugh that when you dismantle your RT that you find some evidence of oil weepage and this could be the cause.

 

Tho the lever travel is a question. as it's hydraulic, I thought like the brakes as friction surface is used then a bit more fluid is used to take up wear with no lever travel change?

I think you tried removing a little fluid before didn't you as did I on my ST as it was advised that as clutch wears the level rises to add to confusion?

 

Even if not I think it's wise to replace engine output seals and gearbox in/out seals with the newer version that BMW now supply as they are fairly cheap in comparison to other parts.

\v/

 

More confusion. I spoke with Moto-Works today to verify they had parts etc. He seemed to know what he was talking about and asked was the clutch slipping at high Motorway speeds (if so it's wear) or on take-off (it's oil)! When I said it wasn't really slipping at all, he said that there is no connection between the lever engaging at the end of its release travel and a slipping clutch. He suggested I thoroughly check the release mechanism and pushrod etc. before attacking the clutch - which I will do and report back. A lot cheaper and a lot easier! One bit of me feels that with very little town riding, no 'bad' use of clutch, 52K is indeed too soon for a clutch to expire

Any thoughts anyone as to how correct this could be?

[Hall Vince]

Gotta be cheaper to remove and check the Slave, check pushrod (I suppose the end could wear, where it is in contact with the pressure plate, thus losing some distance there).

 

I also undestand you can visualy check the plate by removing the starter and peering in with a one of those mirrors on a stick and a torch, could be another way to confirm?

 

Actualy if you know some one with a pencil cam and a white LED wired up which you coul tape to the camera you could do some investication like that through starter apeture I suppose.

I have just that setup, if it helps as a last resort?

\v/

 

 

 

 

[notacop]

Before you do your clutchectomy, have some one else you know and trust their opinion and have them go give it a flog. Your perception of a problem may cost you a lot of time, money and grief.

In other words be sure to get a second opinion.

Lots of folks have buggerd up a perfectly good motorcycle fixing what was not broken.

[mig]

Hugh:

As a former aircraft mechanic you could you a flexable fiber optic scope. Milwaukee tools, like at the home improvement stores here in the US, sells one. Its a flexable, portable inspection scope that would be ideal for this. It has, I believe a 3 inch view screen and the fiber optic piece is about 18 inches long,(halve a meter) I think about $150 dollars pricey but it has many uses.

 

[vfrman]

I just replaced my clutch with the Sintered clutch.

 

It's true, you don't have to replace parts 1,2 & the 5 bolts.

Being an '07, BMW recommends that you replace the pushrod (and felt), which I did. The new pushrod is spherical instead of being conical. The connection is nice and smooth compared to the conical design.

 

The sintered clutch takes a while to get used to. It does not slip like the stock clutch disc. Instead of slipping, it chatters.

 

I've gotten better results so far by barely giving it gas and letting out the clutch, rather than revving the engine and trying to slip it.

Riding with a passenger on the back turned out being a hurky-jerky affair; trying to figure out how to launch the bike smoothly from a stop.

 

This sintered disc definitely has a higher coefficient of friction compared to the stock friction disc.

[RoSPA_man]

I just replaced my clutch with the Sintered clutch.

 

It's true, you don't have to replace parts 1,2 & the 5 bolts.

Being an '07, BMW recommends that you replace the pushrod (and felt), which I did. The new pushrod is spherical instead of being conical. The connection is nice and smooth compared to the conical design.

 

The sintered clutch takes a while to get used to. It does not slip like the stock clutch disc. Instead of slipping, it chatters.

 

I've gotten better results so far by barely giving it gas and letting out the clutch, rather than revving the engine and trying to slip it.

Riding with a passenger on the back turned out being a hurky-jerky affair; trying to figure out how to launch the bike smoothly from a stop.

 

This sintered disc definitely has a higher coefficient of friction compared to the stock friction disc.

 

How is that sintered clutch doing? Has it bedded in? Mine is now definitely slipping so it's time to "go in"

[RoSPA_man]

I just replaced my clutch with the Sintered clutch.

 

It's true, you don't have to replace parts 1,2 & the 5 bolts.

Being an '07, BMW recommends that you replace the pushrod (and felt), which I did. The new pushrod is spherical instead of being conical. The connection is nice and smooth compared to the conical design.

 

The sintered clutch takes a while to get used to. It does not slip like the stock clutch disc. Instead of slipping, it chatters.

 

I've gotten better results so far by barely giving it gas and letting out the clutch, rather than revving the engine and trying to slip it.

Riding with a passenger on the back turned out being a hurky-jerky affair; trying to figure out how to launch the bike smoothly from a stop.

 

This sintered disc definitely has a higher coefficient of friction compared to the stock friction disc.

 

5 bolts for 6 holes in the above diagram!

[RoSPA_man]

I just replaced my clutch with the Sintered clutch.

 

It's true, you don't have to replace parts 1,2 & the 5 bolts.

Being an '07, BMW recommends that you replace the pushrod (and felt), which I did. The new pushrod is spherical instead of being conical. The connection is nice and smooth compared to the conical design.

 

The sintered clutch takes a while to get used to. It does not slip like the stock clutch disc. Instead of slipping, it chatters.

 

I've gotten better results so far by barely giving it gas and letting out the clutch, rather than revving the engine and trying to slip it.

Riding with a passenger on the back turned out being a hurky-jerky affair; trying to figure out how to launch the bike smoothly from a stop.

 

This sintered disc definitely has a higher coefficient of friction compared to the stock friction disc.

 

Does the clutch cover (#6)normally need to be replaced or not?

[NewBlue]

I just replaced my clutch with the Sintered clutch.

 

It's true, you don't have to replace parts 1,2 & the 5 bolts.

Being an '07, BMW recommends that you replace the pushrod (and felt), which I did. The new pushrod is spherical instead of being conical. The connection is nice and smooth compared to the conical design.

 

The sintered clutch takes a while to get used to. It does not slip like the stock clutch disc. Instead of slipping, it chatters.

 

I've gotten better results so far by barely giving it gas and letting out the clutch, rather than revving the engine and trying to slip it.

Riding with a passenger on the back turned out being a hurky-jerky affair; trying to figure out how to launch the bike smoothly from a stop.

 

This sintered disc definitely has a higher coefficient of friction compared to the stock friction disc.

 

5 bolts for 6 holes in the above diagram!

 

There are 5 holes in #2 and 6 in #1 The drive plate #1 could have a locating dowel, don't know

[NewBlue]

I just replaced my clutch with the Sintered clutch.

 

It's true, you don't have to replace parts 1,2 & the 5 bolts.

Being an '07, BMW recommends that you replace the pushrod (and felt), which I did. The new pushrod is spherical instead of being conical. The connection is nice and smooth compared to the conical design.

 

The sintered clutch takes a while to get used to. It does not slip like the stock clutch disc. Instead of slipping, it chatters.

 

I've gotten better results so far by barely giving it gas and letting out the clutch, rather than revving the engine and trying to slip it.

Riding with a passenger on the back turned out being a hurky-jerky affair; trying to figure out how to launch the bike smoothly from a stop.

 

This sintered disc definitely has a higher coefficient of friction compared to the stock friction disc.

 

Does the clutch cover (#6)normally need to be replaced or not?

 

If it was me splitting the bike in half I'm replacing 4,5,6

I don't know what happened to your clutch but 4 nd 6 could be glazed and cracked from heat.

Depending on mileage I would also be looking at the rear main and trans seals. I would hate to have to pull it apart in a few thousand miles or damage a new clutch from a leak.

[RoSPA_man]

I just replaced my clutch with the Sintered clutch.

 

It's true, you don't have to replace parts 1,2 & the 5 bolts.

Being an '07, BMW recommends that you replace the pushrod (and felt), which I did. The new pushrod is spherical instead of being conical. The connection is nice and smooth compared to the conical design.

 

The sintered clutch takes a while to get used to. It does not slip like the stock clutch disc. Instead of slipping, it chatters.

 

I've gotten better results so far by barely giving it gas and letting out the clutch, rather than revving the engine and trying to slip it.

Riding with a passenger on the back turned out being a hurky-jerky affair; trying to figure out how to launch the bike smoothly from a stop.

 

This sintered disc definitely has a higher coefficient of friction compared to the stock friction disc.

 

Does the clutch cover (#6)normally need to be replaced or not?

 

If it was me splitting the bike in half I'm replacing 4,5,6

I don't know what happened to your clutch but 4 nd 6 could be glazed and cracked from heat.

Depending on mileage I would also be looking at the rear main and trans seals. I would hate to have to pull it apart in a few thousand miles or damage a new clutch from a leak.

 

Quick Update: The bike is split and the clutch is out of the bike- completely trashed friction plate. No oil leaks, splines dry but in good condition. I'm replacing the 3 components - ie the cover, the friction plate and the diaphragm spring and am going with the Wunderlich sintered friction plate.

I have to say the job so far (started last Sunday) has been quite enjoyable and it's really nice to have the excuse to examine, clean as you go along etc. I'm not in a big rush - doing it in the evenings mostly and if it takes me 2 weeks more, I can live with that.

BTW, there is a small hole in the casing of the gearbox - I assume that is some sort of breather hole and that it does not have to have a plug in it?

[flars]

The hole is for the locking the engine at TDC. No cover/plug in it.

[vfrman]

Yes, #6 needs to be replaced. The flat surface is a friction surface, which your friction plate comes in contact with.

[RoSPA_man]

Yes, #6 needs to be replaced. The flat surface is a friction surface, which your friction plate comes in contact with.

 

Hey VFRman

All is now de-mystified, now that I am in there- I have removed the clutch parts and it is really simple to see how everything works at last (which is why I wanted to tackle the job). I have new diaphragm, cover and am now just waiting on the Wunderlich Friction plate which landed with supplier today and will be with me Monday.

Now, tell me are you still happy with the sintered disc - I hope so! Having seen the state of the original organic disc, I am glad not to be putting another one in. The material just does not look equal to the job. Has the on-off engagement settled down a bit - I am actually looking forward to a slightly more brutal "bite". Let me know how it is bedding in please.

 

 

[RodB]

I'm going to chime in here and say that you are definitely making the right choice by going with the sintered brass clutch disc.

Solid, easy to control engagement and no smell.

I'm glad I went this way 24K kms ago.

 

[vfrman]

Well, the sintered disc engages differently than the stock organic plate. As it should, since it made of a different material.

 

At first, I thought I made a mistake with it. I tried launching the bike with little revs, and it didn't seem to like it.

 

When you're riding solo, you can launch the bike cleanly with few revs on flat surfaces, but when you encounter hills or if riding 2-up, you will need to rev the engine a bit to slip the clutch. Otherwise, it will chatter with few revs.

 

Overall, I think it will definitely last longer than the stock one. It just took me a while to get used to it.

 

Furthermore... I rode the new 2010 RT yesterday. After coming from my bike, I don't like the stock clutch anymore. The rest of the bike was pretty awesome though...

 

[aso432]

It would be great if you took photos of the process to help anyone in the future who would need to the change the clutch.

Good lock.

[RoSPA_man]

It would be great if you took photos of the process to help anyone in the future who would need to the change the clutch.

Good lock.

 

Will do- the sintered friction plate just arrived by Royal Mail so I'm finally underway this evening after what seemed like a long wait.

[aso432]

I may need to replace my clutch. It was a police bike with 9 thousand miles. I now has 12K on it. I the lever is almost all the way out before it enguages. They go through clutchs because of all the fancy riding at low speeds. It is expected. I know the rider of the bike. He was very easy on the bike.

I am not afraid of a challenge. And I have plenty of time. Photos for video of the change would be excellent.

Take care

Nigel Lowe

Gainesville florida.

[aso432]

How is it going?

Finished.

[RoSPA_man]

How is it going?

Finished.

Almost - caused only by delays in parts, needing 3 friends to help last Saturday and by me taking this opportunity to service, respray front forks etc etc

Reassembly not too difficult - I will send out notes when complete. To whet the appetite, here are some pictures !

[JayW]

Great pictures. They well-demonstrate the enormity of this job, and settle the question as to whether I will attempt this job when the time comes (NO).

 

The RT is not too attractive will all of its guts hanging out.

 

Jay

[lawnchairboy]

I was thinking the same thing. That would definitely be outside the range of my limited abilities to pull off.

[Don_Eilenberger]

The RT is particularly unattractive when split in half.. shame the wiring harness doesn't have a big connector at that point..

[RoSPA_man]

Finally got to fitting the exhaust 5 mins ago - pressed the starter and it fired up and ticked over perfectly.

Tomorrow I need to bleed the brakes and test ride.

Yo!3 4? weeks off the bike

Been more like a mid-life rebuild than a clutch job!

Now - a beer!

[JayW]

Now - a beer!

 

You deserve it, maybe 2. Good for you for successfully tackling this project. No doubt you also learned some useful things about how the bike is engineered, and you saved many dollars.

 

Jay

[RoSPA_man]

Ok - brakes all done and out for a test ride. VFRman mentioned 'chattering' which is what I could not understand but which I now understand - it's the gearbox chattering as the sintered clutch is not fully disengaging. I assume it's because of a big fat friction plate and 3 new surfaces needing to bed in together. It was bad at times, meaning that I had to engage neutral at some junctions just in case I would either creep or stall.

I tried a bit of experimentation. I engaged first in a car park, bit of a clunk, like a Japanese bike. I then chose neutral, pumped the lever multiple times and tried again- same outcome. So I think it is not the slave cylinder or pushrod - I think it is just simply the bedding in. When I got back to my garage (only did about 30 miles), I engaged first and while it clunked on entry to 1st, it ticked over OK, so I think we're going to be fine! I like the on/off nature, but right now, I don't so much have an 'On/Off' clutch - it's more like a 'Slightly On'/On situation.

Pictures updated here

[aggieengineer]

Thanks for the pictures. Clearly you were correct - that clutch was worn out. Keep us apprised of your satisfaction with the replacement unit. Thanks!

[RodB]

I don't so much have an 'On/Off' clutch - it's more like a 'Slightly On'/On situation.

 

It sounds like your clutch is dragging a bit. A quick and easy test:

Put it up on the center stand, run in gear and release the clutch. You should now be able to easily hold the rear tire without straining the engine.

 

Hey, I just noticed that your tranny is painted black. Mine is unpainted. I wonder if its from being an '07.

Does anyone here know if all RT transmissions from '07 on, are black?

 

[vfrman]

I have over 1000 miles on mine, and at times it still chatters. Especially with a passenger.

I've noticed that with this clutch to engage smoothly, you have to give it more gas than you would the stock clutch.

 

If I'm solo, I don't have to give it as much gas, unless I'm on a slight hill.

 

Nice job on your clutch job. I hope you're happy with it!!

[NewBlue]

I would worry about clutch drag a little. Drag is different then chatter. Put it in gear pull in the clutch and push it. Hopefully this can be done without the crankshaft wanting to turn. Heat from drag can bring you back to where you started. Not trying to worry you just investigate it a little. Could be normal with the disc you installed, maybe a little thicker then stock or just doesn't need that much pressure before starting to engage. More stickyerer <--- technical term

 

Congratulations on the clutch replacement.

[Hall Vince]

Hey, I just noticed that your tranny is painted black. Mine is unpainted. I wonder if its from being an '07.

Does anyone here know if all RT transmissions from '07 on, are black?

 

My 57 (Sept 2007) RT has an unpainted (silver) transmission.

Maybe Hugh painted his?

\v/

[RoSPA_man]

Hey, I just noticed that your tranny is painted black. Mine is unpainted. I wonder if its from being an '07.

Does anyone here know if all RT transmissions from '07 on, are black?

 

My 57 (Sept 2007) RT has an unpainted (silver) transmission.

Maybe Hugh painted his?

\v/

 

Maybe a leprechaun did so when I was asleep? Nope, I certainly didn't!

[RoSPA_man]

I would worry about clutch drag a little. Drag is different then chatter. Put it in gear pull in the clutch and push it. Hopefully this can be done without the crankshaft wanting to turn. Heat from drag can bring you back to where you started. Not trying to worry you just investigate it a little. Could be normal with the disc you installed, maybe a little thicker then stock or just doesn't need that much pressure before starting to engage. More stickyerer <--- technical term

 

Congratulations on the clutch replacement.

 

Thanks - it was fun and educational - and character-building of course

Luckily, it looks like it's just bedding in that is required. Today I tried the 'garage test' on the stand - I engaged 1st, let it run up the rear wheel and then pulled the clutch - the wheel stopped turning (albeit with the lever right in to the grip - slightest release and it starts to turn). That is much better than yesterday; then I tried to stop the wheel revolving with my foot - and didn't succeed.

The chattering will persist no doubt for a while and will wear away or I'll get used to it. I'm reluctant to re-bleed the hydraulics as it's a messy, awkward reach job when the bike is closed up, so I would have to be certain that it was needed. In the meantime, I have what I wanted - a good, brutal clutch!

[swilson]

Great job. I really like the attention to detail as it went back together. All the new fasteners on the front forks and calipers look great.

 

The photo of the stainless band clamp and the special tool (looks similar to a set of black pliers)... what is it for?

[RoSPA_man]

I have over 1000 miles on mine, and at times it still chatters. Especially with a passenger.

I've noticed that with this clutch to engage smoothly, you have to give it more gas than you would the stock clutch.

 

If I'm solo, I don't have to give it as much gas, unless I'm on a slight hill.

 

Nice job on your clutch job. I hope you're happy with it!!

 

Hi Vfrman

Weather is poor here so I've only put about 100 miles or so on the clutch. But I can already see that the 'clunkiness' when selecting a gear is disappearing fast as a) the parts bed in and b) I now pull the lever right in to the grip - the last few millimeters make the difference at this early point in the components' life.

 

The chatter is a "feature" of sintered that I think will persist, but I don't mind it at all as it can be avoided easily. I have found that the main thing is not to rely on slipping the clutch when taking off - this is when the gearbox chattering occurs. Whether low or high revs, a quick release of clutch is key. If using low revs, you have to achieve full engagement and THEN get on the gas, i.e. not getting on the gas during engagement.

 

The upside of sintered is that it rewards a more disciplined use of clutch and the only downside is possibly trickiness in extended 'uber-slow' trickling at really slow speed where slipping used to be the weapon. More as I get the opportunity to experiment.

 

[RoSPA_man]

I promised an update on the sintered clutch after I put some miles on. Due to weather, I have still done less than 1000 miles. However a few things are becoming clear:

1. I think the chattering is here to stay and will be a permanent feature. This can shake the bike occasionally if you get it all wrong from a standing start. I also have to pull the lever right into the handlebar grip fully in order to avoid a notchy 1st gear engagement.

2. I’m not sure what I’ve gained. This sintered clutch is much less forgiving. While this generally leads to imposing good clutch usage there are some occasions when I miss the ease of use of the standard clutch – e.g. when going really slowly like trickling inside the EuroTunnel train to disembark yesterday

3. The clutch is claimed to be durable and to not smell etc. I’m sure it is; however, this is as much a function of the fact that slipping the clutch is tricky as much as to the clutch itself. In other words, if you never get to slip the clutch, it will never overheat etc.

4. I have a clutch that is undoubtedly bulletproof but the price I pay is a trickier clutch operation in slow riding conditions. It is difficult to avoid the chattering which vibrates the bike and can be unpleasant. It also feels as if it must be putting stress on other parts such as the gearbox.

In summary, I now have a durable clutch that definitely will not slip or overheat, at the expense of slow riding flexibility. While it imposes good disciplines, there are some occasions when it can be a bit of a handful. If you commute or spend a lot of time in slow-moving traffic (luckily I don’t), I would not recommend sintered. Maybe the oil resistant clutch may be the ideal compromise – not because of its oil-resistance, but because it may be more durable than the standard BMW plate and smoother than sintered.

 

[JayW]

Interesting observations, and noted for future reference. Thanks for the update!

[racer7]

Has been said correctly. You have gotten the predictable and expected behavior of a sintered clutch and most will not find it acceptable for normal street use, as you imply in your lack of recommendation. Generally, these materials are restricted to racing and other non-street applications for the reasons you have noted. They have an additional problem in high power machine- shock loads on the driveline that can shorten life of other bits. One of the reasons I prefer a "soft" clutch (with adequate holding power) for most uses.

 

Reports on the oil resistant clutch would be interesting. Owners know about the shortcomings of the stock design- would be useful to have an alternate that works as well re engagement and durability and is less subject to fluid leak failure.

[_Rob_]

Thanks for a fantastic post and follow-up.

 

My 2007 has just started to show signs of a failing clutch; basically a slight loss of acceleration / lurching at high revs from 3rd on up. I have 86,600+ miles on original clutch. I was considering a replacement with the sintered type but your description and experiences have made me reconsider. I (unfortunately) have to deal with a lot of slow-speed, clutch slipping scenarios on my daily commute. I get the distinct impression that I would be putting a lot more stress on all drive train components with the bullet-proof clutch. Also, I am pretty sure that replacement with a non-OEM part could potentially void my extended warranty (i.e. if I thrash the gearbox, etc.).

 

I must be nuts as I am still considering doing the job myself after viewing your pictures. I've studied the service DVD in detail but know that reality is usually more difficult; plus this is not something I do everyday. I am curious if you had to do it all over again what (if anything) you would do differently in terms of tools used, parts replaced/not replaced, etc? Did you use a standard engine hoist or other to maintain stability of both bike halves?

 

Again, can't thank you enough for the detailed information provided. I am not a mechanic but have a twisted facination of taking things apart and (hopefully) putting it back together correctly; plus I have a "cage" as my backup transporter if things go south...

 

[_Rob_]

Just to beat others to the punch; my screwing up the clutch replacement would definitely void my extended warranty

[RodB]

I also have to pull the lever right into the handlebar grip fully in order to avoid a notchy 1st gear engagement.

 

IMO, these are the key words here. It should not be this way irregardless of what type material is used as a clutch disc. It sounds like something else is defective/maladjusted. This may be the cause of all other 'cons' described. (BTW, I am a career mechanic)

I've had the sintered clutch for 24k km's and if I ever need one again, I would not hesitate to go that route again.