Winter Storage in Extreme Cold

[Claudio]

Winter temperatures here can reach lows of -35 Celcius for days at a time (which is about the same in Fahrenheit). My storage location would not be quite that cold, but -25 C is a likely temperature).

 

Given that the storage manual's instructions for my 1150RT were probably written for more sane climates, can anyone here offer additional tips that should be adhered to for cold storage above and beyond the normal procedures?

[Ken H.]

quote]beyond the normal procedures

Beyond normal procedures, not really.

 

Put some stabilizer in the fuel, keep the battery charged, park it on the center stand.

 

Don't hit the tires with a hammer. -35°C

[Waltman]

Aside from the regular winter storage procedure, and if you are going to store the bike longer than a month then remove the battery and take it inside YOUR HOME, where is warm, do not leave it inside the garage (unless you have a heated one).

 

Here is a link that may give some help

 

Winter storage tips

 

Some places even rent heated spaces for winter storage, check your area.

[LDHack]

Claudio

 

I'm just south of you, 100 km south of Thunder Bay, in Minnesota. I store my bikes in a cold garage. I connect my battery to a battery tender and leave the battery in the bike all winter. The battery won't freeze when connected to the battery tender. I also change the oil, fill the gas tank, and put in fuel stabilizer. I run the engine for a couple minutes to get the fuel stabilizer in to the injectors, then let it be until I'm ready to ride again.

 

Condensation from frost in the engine and gas tank is the biggest issue. I've been known to start up the bikes on a warmer day and let them run for 10 minutes, to combat the frost and condensation issue in the engine. That's one of the reasons I leave the battery in the bike during storage. A full gas tank will combat the frost issue in the gas tank, especially for bikes with steel tanks.

[Pictou]

I have often read that unless you can ride the bike and get it truly warmed up your better off not to start it at all through the winter. One of the things that is stated is that running the bike for a few minutes will only cause the build up of corrosive stuff in the engine and exhaust. I don't run my bike through the winter for that reason. I am not sure which is right but its what I do.

 

 

 

Condensation from frost in the engine and gas tank is the biggest issue. I've been known to start up the bikes on a warmer day and let them run for 10 minutes, to combat the frost and condensation issue in the engine. That's one of the reasons I leave the battery in the bike during storage. A full gas tank will combat the frost issue in the gas tank, especially for bikes with steel tanks.

[Ken H.]

unless you can ride the bike and get it truly warmed up your better off not to start it at all through the winter.

I agree. IMHO short starts and runs do little more than bring the corrosive elements up to a temperature where they work better. At corroding that is.

 

To truly do some good everything has to be brought up to full operating temperature, and for a period of time. And that means going for a medium length ride.

 

Were just talking about metals and plastics here. There is nothing intrinsically that says they can't get down to most any air temperature and not suffer any damage from that in itself.

[Al Navecky Jr]

Thing I do beyond normal procedures:

 

Put WD-40 soaked piece of rag in the air cleaner to block off the air tubs to the injectors and one in the exhaust. This will help with the condensation.

 

Squirt of motor oil in each cylinder. Then turn over the motor a few times.

 

Put in fuel stabilizer and run the engine for a couple minutes to get the fuel stabilizer in to the injectors

[313_Matt]

Most of the items have been covered, but I will suggest fogging oil. No better way to coat the internals than fogging oil.

 

Most of the time my bikes get ridden a bit through the winter. Not much, but if the roads are clear, dry and (mostly) clear of salt, I'll go for a ride in January or whenever.

 

But sometimes I am doing a big job, and know that the bike (or other internal combustion engine or vehicle) will be down for the winter, and sometimes well into the spring or summer. That's when I break out the fogging oil.

 

I originally found fogging oil at the marine shop, but have recently seen it at the auto parts store.

 

If you are concerned about sensors or electronicy things, pull the plugs and squirt it right into the cylinders just before bedtime.

 

Note: I have not used fogging oil on my beemer. I have used it on: the XS, the CL, the MGB, the truck, the lawnmowers, the weedwhip, the pressure sprayer, the outboard motors, and the generator. Everything starts easier in spring, summer, or October 2009 if you hit it with fogging oil.

 

313-Matt

[flatbutt]

I'd also suggest , be sure to use the center stand to get the weight off of the tires. Some riders also place cardboard under each tire to separate them from the concrete surface.

[DaveC]

I suggest you ship it to me here in California for storage and use. It will not see below 40F, and will get regular use in January on warm sunny days.