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Shfit noise


DallasR1100RT

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So sometimes when I shift gears it sounds like I am not even using the clutch...going into 3rd gear seems especially noisy and hard...and then sometimes it feels like a slick shifting Japanese bike..should I have the clutch checked?

 

Is the BMW normaly hard sounding and clunky?

 

Thanks again for another lesson!!

 

Mark

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Mark,

Give us a bit more info. Is this problem noted on up-shifts or down-shifts or both? What model year is the bike and how many miles are on it? Do you apply a bit of preload to the shift lever on up-shifts? What gear oil are you running in the tranny? Have you changed it lately?

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Is the BMW normaly hard sounding and clunky?

 

Aye firmative; clunky shifting is an historic beemer feature. If you can rev the motor with the clutch lever pulled in (w/o any increase in bike speed) your clutch is likely fine. Loud, crunchy gear shifts are something we get used to. It's the nature of the beast.

Best wishes,

Wooster

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BMW's have the clunkiest transmission of any bike I've ridden.

 

As Paul mentioned, preloading on upshifts does help some, but they are not silky smooth.

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The M97 gearbox 2nd to 3rd shift is (almost!) notorious for that. Some gearboxes it doesn't appear a lot, if at all.

In others it will go smoothly SOMETIMES and other times it will give you a little resistance or kickback, even when you pre-load. Worry not I thought it was peculiar to my R1100R until I rode some others. IMHO TADT :grin:.

 

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BMW's have the clunkiest transmission of any bike I've ridden.

 

As Paul mentioned, preloading on upshifts does help some, but they are not silky smooth.

 

 

Kinda 1/2 true...

 

Ever shifted a "K" bike Vincenzo? Hardly a tick, let alone a clunk....My experience holds that the "R" bikes are the noisiest.

 

"K" bikes es asmoozch... :grin:

 

MB>

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thanks for the info...as usual...and thanks again for educating this new BMW owner.

 

Now..if I could just do something about the torture chamber BMW calls a motorcycle seats.

 

After another 8 hours today that back of my legs hurt so bad. (You know that part of your legs that hit the toliet seat when you sit) I raised the front...lowered the back a little...but still sit with pressure on my legs and not my big butt!!

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Dallas, I see you have posted elsewhere about the seat and have had suitable response, so, sticking to the initial question:

Preload the lever a little on up shifts and a blip of the throttle on down shifts all help to make for a slicker shift.

 

You ought to check the clutch cable adjustment is done correctly at the gearbox and lever end.

You could replace the gearbox oil with synthetic which MAY help.

Also check the gear linkage is correctly tightened up on the shaft exiting the gearbox,

Also the adjustable linkage from the gearbox to the lever works better if it is removed, cleaned, greased re-installed and set up correctly to ensure the gear lever is not touching the ends of the arced 'gate' in the lefthand footrest plate.

While the linkage is off, ensure that the lever moves freely on its pivot. Re lube that too while you're there.

 

The 1100 is clunker than the 1150 and even that isn't anywhere near Japanese smoothness.

 

Andy

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It is possible to achieve something like smooth shifting from an 1100. Bruno did a great job of machining the shifter dogs on my M94 gearbox. With the addition of the MolySlip that he provided with the rebuild, it shifts much smoother than it used to -- and stays in second gear.

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Thanks everyone for your responses.

 

I use the advice of preload shifting...I did put in synthetic oil...

 

I am just not used to hearing the cluncking noise going into 3rd gear...going into 4th and 5th is like "butter" compared to going into 3rd so I was concerned.

 

Thanks again for putting up with this BMW NEWBIE!!!

 

Mark

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  • 3 weeks later...

Dallas, I too am a newbie to BMW and was quite surprised by several things that I expected precision German engineering to have resolved decades ago. Shifting noise is only one of several. I was able to improve it by simply adjusting the clutch lever engagement point. It's that little dial with some numbers on the clutch lever. I moved the engagement point away from the grip by going from position #1 to position #2. It seemed to help my clunker.

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Hi Randy, that has nothing to do with the actual gear synchronisation, that is all to do with the HMI (man / machine interface) (It is just simple lever reach adjustment) and in reality, if you can get it to change smoothly in one position, then with practice it will be the same in any other of the 'Reach adjustment settings'.

 

Most of the other gear changing issues are all about matching engine speed to gearbox speed, and again comes with practice and not rushing the change.

 

It is a shame that by the 1150 they hadn't really got the gearbox to be as smooth a change as the Japanese competition, but hey ho, that is the way it is.

 

Andy

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