Wiring Gerbings controller

[Woodsey]

I wish to permanently wire in my Gerbings single portable controller.

I have glued the controller to the removable radio button cover on the left side of the fairing and placed a grommet in this cover for the wires to pass through.

- I am not sure if I should cut off the plug from the back of the accessory socket and use it to connect the out wire from the controller to the accessory socket.

- Should I run power directly from the battery to the controller or connect the cut off wires from the canbus accessory socket for power? I will be powering a Gerbings heated jacket liner.

- If I cut the canbus wire from the accessory socket, will I be able to just tape up the wires and tuck them away or might this cause a problem with the computer?

Thank for any assistance.

Woodsey

 

[dirtrider]

Hi Woodsey

 

No “canbus” wires running to that accessory socket. Both the front and rear accessory socket on that 1200 are controlled by the ZFE module as far as turning on and off goes, and as far as over-current protection goes.

 

If you just cut the wires going to the accessory socket then install the Gerbings controller in series you still have the limitations of factory 10 amps and pretty well make that accessory socket useless for other non Gerbings controlled accessories. The good part is the Gerbings controller will shut off a few minutes after you shut the bike off. The bad news is with the limited amperage available you will be stuck with not being able to run extra heated gear if you desire to in the future.

 

Now if you wire the Gerbings controller directly to the battery you still have the approximate 10 amp capacity of the BMW accessory socket as those are the small pin sockets but some people have been able to overdrive them as long as the voltage going to the socket stays pretty high. The bad news here is you will have to remember to shut the controller off when you park the bike as the controller will always be powered up. Not a lot of parasitic load but enough over a few days to run the battery down.

 

If you can remember to turn the thing off at every motorcycle parking then wire directly to the battery and install a PowerLet or older BMW socket that can handle 15+ amps.

 

Or another option is to wire directly to the battery using a power relay, then update to the old BMW or PowerLet socket. Then use the stock ZFE controlled outlet to trigger the relay. That will automatically shut the controller off a few minutes after key down.

 

Or maybe even better yet leave the stock accessory outlet alone and install a new 15+ amp outlet in that radio panel along with the Gerbings controller then wire the new system battery direct “fused of course” with an ignition controlled relay to control the Gerbings controller in case you forget to turn it off.

 

 

 

[Beech]

Several ways to go. I suggest you get an additional socket and run your heat circuit to it leaving the bike CAN buss socket intact. But if you do want to use the CAN socket, just un plug it and buy a connector from the dealer to put into the back of the socket. Not using it will not effect the computer. It can not tell if the socket is missing. This connector will have a foot of lead wire to which you can hook your Gerbing heat power to. Thus leaving your original wiring intact for future use. Clean way to go. Also run your own power from the battery to your Gerbing controller because 09 and earlier CAN buss power to the socket is limited to 5 amps, not enough the computer will cut you off. But the 2010 bikes have 10 amps. (total power for both plugs together, so not much really.) Get one of the nifty aftermarket fuse boxes to install under your seat, they you have power for your heater and anything else down the line.

http://www.motorcyclelarry.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=116

The AP-2 is cool because it has some power on all the time and some fuses go dead when the bike goes off. You have to pick a place to get ignition on power to fire the relay for half the fuses. I got mine from The GPS plug in front (once again I bought the complimentary connector to plug into it instead of cutting the thing off). But there are new types of scab on connectors that AP sells with their relay kits that look good. Not like the old 3M things that just cut the insulation. BMW wires are too thin for long term success with that type. Go slow and think it out. You can find the connector selection in the max parts fiche.

http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51560&rnd=03192010

These run about 20 bucks each and let you connect to the system with out cutting stuff. The GPS connector up front by the steering head stays hot for 60 seconds after the bike goes off. beech

[Woodsey]

Thank you both for very comprehensive replies.

It looks like I will be ordering a PSO-001 16A Powerlet from Motorcyclelarry and running a relay controlled, fused power wire directly from the battery.

- Am I correct in thinking the 2006 RT has 10A available at the front accessory socket with the stock set up?

I have ordered the Gerbings accessory plug to connect the liner to the powerlet.

Woodsey

[dirtrider]

Hi Beech

 

You care to explain how that accessory socket is a CanBus socket? It ONLY has 2 wires going to it, a power wire and a ground wire. No twisted pair going to either of those sockets. How does one of those sockets talk to the Controller Area Network, in fact how does it process the data into bianary to even get the Controller Area Network’s attention?

Why would the CanBus or Controller Area Network even care about that power socket?

 

The ZFE does control that socket but only for over current protection and shutdown during cranking or ignition key off.

 

I must be missing something here.

 

[dirtrider]

- Am I correct in thinking the 2006 RT has 10A available at the front accessory socket with the stock set up?

 

Hi again Woodsey

 

I think that depends on the build date on your 06. The later 1200RT’s such as the 08 and 09 definitely have 10 amp sockets. The same era R bikes are only 5 amps so I think that is where the confusion comes in.

 

I can’t say definitely either way on the 05/06 RTs. I should be in your riders manual. The 08 and 09 manual has the accessory sockets rated at 10 amp on I believe page 153.

 

[Ken H.]

You care to explain how that accessory socket is a CanBus socket? It ONLY has 2 wires going to it, a power wire and a ground wire. No twisted pair going to either of those sockets. How does one of those sockets talk to the Controller Area Network, in fact how does it process the data into bianary to even get the Controller Area Network’s attention?

Why would the CanBus or Controller Area Network even care about that power socket?

 

The ZFE does control that socket but only for over current protection and shutdown during cranking or ignition key off.

 

I must be missing something here.

Terminology confusion abounds. Five years into BMW CANBus equipped bikes we could hope some of it has dissipated, but not all.

 

For the record, your interpretation is correct. “CANBus” refers to the communication ‘bus’, the wires, on which data is sent back and forth between the various computer modules on the bike. (However on BMW bikes it is not a twisted pair) it is a shielded single conductor.)

 

None of the controlled items, be they lights, signals, horns, accessory sockets, fuel injectors, etc. are in any way connected to the CANBus itself. All are controlled by various computer modules, in the case of the accessory sockets, as you say, by the ZFE computer module.

 

I have a PowerPoint slide show that explains it all. If anyone would like a copy PM me with an email address.

 

[Woodsey]

Hi dirtrider,

I checked my Riders Manual. My bike was manufactured 09/05 and the socket has a rating of 5A (Page 88). Should I replace the stock Powerlet socket with one of a higher rating and bring in power from the battery.

Any idea on wiring and source for the relay?

Any and all help is gratefully appreciated.

Woodsey

 

[pokorskij]

You might also check the Powerlet site, they now have a wireless controller, single and dual, that might change your plans on installation.

 

Google, Powerlet and check the heated clothing.

 

No connection, just passing on some info.

[Woodsey]

Thanks pokorskij,

Another good source for cables/clothing.

Cheers,

Woodsey

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Woodsey

 

 

The stock outlet has small pins unlike the older BMW 15+ amp large pin socket. Your stock socket is rated at 10 amps by the supplier but that is at operating volts of 12-14 volts. If you allow the voltage to drop off at low idle with high light and accessory load your socket “amperage” load will increase as the voltage drops.

 

You can easily use the stock socket to run a heated vest or heated coat but are getting marginal at full heated gear or adding socks and gloves.

 

I have seen people overdrive those stock sockets a little with no problems especially if a pulse controller is used. The basic problem with a pulse controller like the Gerbings is it is a 0/12 volt pulse not a shortened pulse width so even with the controller turned down it can still trip a 5 amp socket protection circuit.

 

If it were me doing that job I would definitely upgrade to a PowerLet or older BMW large pin socket and wire battery direct fused for at least 15 amps. In fact that is how I wired my old 1200RT or GSA.

 

With you wanting to permanently wire in the Gerbings controller that complicates it a little as you might forget to turn it off when done riding. I would imagine without a garment load it wouldn’t run the battery down overnight but will eventually. Using the stock socket ZFE controlled wire to control a power relay would be a good work around.

 

I have too many bikes to wire in a controller permanently but do have all my outlets wired direct to battery and fused with the early BMW 15+ amp sockets.

 

[dirtrider]

(However on BMW bikes it is not a twisted pair) it is a shielded single conductor.)

 

 

 

Hi Ken

 

Thanks, I probably should not have used the words ”twisted pair”, most late model automotive CAN systems use the same 2 conductor shielded center wire with the outer shielding being one of the conductors. We still use the words twisted pair when talking about the CAN data transmission wires even though it hasn’t actually been a twisted pair for a long time.

 

[Woodsey]

Hi dirtrider,

Thanks for your update.

I have found a relay from my old R1100RS I can possibly use.

BMW 6136 1389 105 yellow in color (Siemens V23134-K52-X161)

I have found a wiring diagram:

85 - ground

86 - power lead from switched source

87 - through power outlet then to ground.

30 - fused connection to battery

86b - no connection

 

Does this seem like a possibility?

Cheers,

Woodsey

[dirtrider]

Evening Woodsey

 

Are you sure that is an actual relay and not an old removed CCP? The CCP has the pin numbers on it but no contacts or pull in coil inside the box.

 

If you have an ohmmeter measure the resistance between 85 and 86, you should see some resistance not straight through. Then check 30 to 87 that should be open. If all terminals show the same “low” resistance between them you have an old CCP there and not a relay.

 

Your terminal number hook ups look good for most Bosch style little square relays.

 

[Woodsey]

Hi dirtrider,

You are correct. According to your instructions, it is an old CCP.

I will pick up a relay at the local Auto shop.

Many thanks.

Woodsey

[dirtrider]

Evening again Woodsey

 

Those auto store relays should work just great as they will easily handle the current you want to pass through them and most come with a wire diagram right on the side of the plastic case.

 

[Beech]

Dirtrider, only speaking in terms of computer monitored out put vs fuses of the old bikes. I tend to lump the bike systems into the term "CAN BUSS" but of course you are correct. The end result will be the same for the OP, a clean system modification. No cutting into the factory harness. I did not catch it was an antique '06. beech

[BeemerLover]

You might see What Easternbeaver has. Got a wiring harness with relay and fuzeblock from them several years ago and I think they have large number of relays to choose from. I had them put a dpdt relay in mine so I could attach a flashing red LED that is on only when the bike is off. I mounted it on the dash and it looks like there is a built in security system. Go here:

 

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/main.html