Installing Autocom and Roady questions (Electrical)

[Motorrad4fun]

Ok, it would seem that by me recent posts that I do not know a lot about stuff like installing things on my bike. You could be right, I live by the motto measure twice, cut once.

With this in mind here is my questions

 

I am installing a Autocom Active-7 Smart and a XM Roady2 on my k1200gt. 04 I have the Autocom working with it plugged into the power outlet. (it came with one installed, added) I would like to hook it and the Power plug for the roady2 to switched power so it comes on with the ignition.

 

I see were 2 clusters of fuses are right above the battery but do not see an easy way to just hook up to it.

 

I have a few days as I had to order the cord and the Bracket for the roady to connect to the Autocm.

 

Another question is. I was under the impression that the Autocom was not activated until the Driver lead was plugged in? Is this correct?

Or do I need to take care to unplug it after every use until I get it hard wired?

 

It would be great to hear from some of you who have done this to get some hands on input

[Mr_Ed]

On my 03GT I tapped into the taillight to power my active7smart...the idea of course was to have it on a switched source.... it was waste of time because you are right....the unit only comes on when the riders headset is plugged in... go ahead and wire it right to the battery while using an inline fuse and you should be fine.... you may however need a filter to take out alternator noise (no matter where you have it wired in for juice).... as far as the roady...well... a switched source may be better for that.

[EffBee]

Stefan, here are some general tips.

 

1. The Autocom is on whenever there's 12V power to it. Connecting the rider lead does not turn it on and off. The only time the rider lead comes into play is if you're powering the Autocom off an internal 9V battery. But if it's hardwired, it's on if there's power.

 

2. If you're going to hardwire the Autocom to the bike, the negative lead must go to the battery. The positive should go to a switched lead that has nothing to do with the bike's ignition system. Usually the taillight lead is a good source (this applies to non-CANbus bikes only).

 

3. The Roady will have to be wired with its cigar plug in place. The plug contains a 12V-6V reducer which is necessary as your Roady is a 6V unit. Do not cut the cigar plug off and hardwire the Roady to the bike as it will fry the Roady.

 

4. A good place to pick up power for the Roady is from the lead that goes to the parking light in your headlight. Like the Autocom, the ground is best connected to the battery.

 

5. To connect the Roady to the Autocom, you will need a Ground Loop Isolated lead (#ML-PI). The straight cable that came with your Autocom kit is only for battery-powered music/audio sources. Your Roady is going to be "bike" powered, thus the need for the GL Isolator.

 

Hope this helps.

[DangerMoney]

To connect the Roady to the Autocom, you will need a Ground Loop Isolated lead (#ML-PI). The straight cable that came with your Autocom kit is only for battery-powered music sources. Your Roady is going to be "bike" powered.

 

This is the cable I used to eliminate the electrical noise from my bike-powered V1:Autocom cable for Music/Audio Interface: Bike Powered Portable Source

[Limecreek]

Another option is to move your Roady and Autocom to your tank bag. Run power from your battery to the bag and to a fuse block inside of the bag. Now you can power your current and future accessories from a central and portable location.

 

Power from the battery plugs in here.

 

 

The fuse block is to the left, Autocom to the right, radar detector volume control (V1) at the top, and the Roady voltage converter just below the Centech fuse block.

 

 

My Roady and garage door opener is in the map case of the tank bag.

 

 

This is one of several ways to set up a tank bag for accessories. A search will yield many other ideas.

[Laney]

[slight hijack]

 

Greg, which tankbag is that, and how many liters is it supposed to hold? That looks like a good set-up, I just don't know if I have the room.

 

[/slight hijack]

[Limecreek]

It's the BMW RS tank bag. I have all of my electical stuff in the bottom section (that part was removed for the picture). The top section zips on and is plenty of room for me, since I only store the stuff I need to get to during a ride. Then there is a middle section, that again, zips in, that I do not use.

 

I would guess that it is 5 liters with middle section in?

 

Laney, this is a really clean set up. At the end of the ride it take me less than a minute to remove my GPS and V1 and tank bag for a trip to the hotel room.

 

Oh, one other thing you might not be able to see from the picture --the electical stuff is sitting on a piece of plexiglass I cut out to fit in the bag.

 

Back to the original post....

[Laney]

Laney, this is a really clean set up.

 

It really is -- nice work!

 

At the end of the ride it take me less than a minute to remove my GPS and V1 and tank bag for a trip to the hotel room.

 

Or the mall!

 

Thanks for all the info Greg -- I don't know how well the Marsee 19 liter bag would adapt to this, but I'll take a good look. It'd be really great to make switching stuff back and forth a little easier.

[Ken H.]

I see were 2 clusters of fuses are right above the battery but do not see an easy way to just hook up to it.

Get an "Add-a-Fuse" aka "Add-a-Circuit." Allows you to piggyback a tap on an existing (switched) fuse. Available at most any auto parts store.

[Motorrad4fun]

Thanks to all for all your feedback. I think I have a plan. Once I get it hooked up I will try to shoot a picture of it as it will be a combo of a couple of the ideas here.Ken, that was the last piece of the puzzle I was looking for ,,,,Thanks…..

 

Laney, no charge for the slight Hijack this time