Tupperware Removal

[kinchy]

I know it's archived somewhere (and I did look) but couldn't find it. Want to wire the Valentine to my 04 RT. Obviously the plastic comes first.. can someone point me in the right direction?

As always thanks

[SWB]

This is the procedure for my 01 R1100RT - the 04 R1150 may be different (and I'm sure 25 others on the forum will promptly correct me if I'm wrong).

 

Tools:

 

Get T-handled hex wrenches, plus a set to fit your 1/4" drive rachets.

 

Not sure what else you're looking for, but the procedure (R1100RT) is:

 

1) Get an egg carton, and place your screws there as you remove them (i.e. to sort them). Note locations based on size.

 

2) Snap off the mirrors. The pull off (don't know another method), and depending on the amount of corrosion on the "bullets" it could require quite a bit of force. (Tip: use steel wool to clean up the heads, if the mirrors prove difficult to remove, and put a bit of grease on them before reassembly. If you have the RT(P), front crash bars have to come off. (I'm not sure about the head protectors for civilian bikes, but I assume they must come off too.)

 

3) Remove seat. There are two triangular plastic plates just beneath the seat (towards the rear). Don't know what they are called, but they snap off on top, and have plastic alignment tabs which must be lifted "up" from the base plate. Also, there's one place on each side faring, the furthers rear "screw" is actually a plastic snap inside a rubber grommet. Use a phillips screw driver to turn the snap, and release it from the gromment.

 

4) Remove screws on tank, between front and side fairings, on lower/side fairings attach point, one screw in the front fairing nose for each side, and one or two hidden behind the mirrors (now exposed, of course). If you use a eletric drill (pretty bulky) or screwdriver, make sure you set the torque setting low, because the screws can easily strip or twist the clips out of the tank or other locations). There are also four screws to remove on each side in the cylinder head area, just above the cylinder heads, and back behind the exhaust header pipes.

 

5) The next step - fairing removal is tricky, always a bit of a challenge. The front fairing is not coming off (in this example, anyway). The bottom fairing will probably drop off as soon as the last screw's removed, or slides off easily. I believe that there are four plastic alignment tabs on the lower fairing which slide up into the side fairings. For each side fairing, the interlocking plastic areas are between the side fairings at top and the gas tank fairing, and behind the exhaust headers. If you have an RTP, you'll also have to pull the rubber gromment clear of the crash bar stub (that's the first step for an RTP). So, the "procedure" I follow is to lift up on the side fairing at the front and rear of the gas take to lift the side fairing over the tank fairing, and uncouple the side from tank fairing. Then I press the side fairing down around the dash area to free it from that, and then (always with some difficulty) pull the front of the side fairing down to relase the plastic tab. After that, make sure the side fairing is clear of the exhaust headers, and from that point, removal should be pretty simple.

 

This is sufficient for most routine service. I haven't removed the front fairing, but would guess from looking at it previously, that the tank would have to come off. There are some procedures to follow for tank removal which are sort of important, but since you only asked about fairings, I won't cover that.

 

Hope this helps.

[SWB]

After re-reading your post (re: Valentine), you're probably talking about the front fairing.

 

My guess is that the side fairings come off first, then the tank, and then you'll be able to reach the fittings underneath the front fairing. It might be possible to do without removing the front tank, but I'm a big guy, so I'd pull the tank off first, and anything else between me and the target fairing.

 

However .... when I rewired my lights, I was able to get into the front dash area without removing the front fairing (after removing the side panels). I removed the screws attaching the R1100 dash, and the windscreen, and disconnected (some of the) wires behind the dash, until I had enough slack to "flip" the dash over up and onto the top of the front fairing (lay a think towel down on the front fairing so it doesn't get scratched). That's probably not the "approved" method for working underneath the front fairing, and it was a pain in the butt (I left the tank on during that work - it was my first project), but doable.

 

Good luck.

[rfc1992]

Although a newbie to my R1100RT and this board, I took the time to bond with the bike by taking off the extensive set of plastic. Those nifty triangular pieces can cause pain, if you do not treat them correctly. I broke the tab off of one - a $60 mistake.

 

Just an FYI.

[KMG_365]

There is a quick tutorial with pics for Tupperware and gas tank removal should you want to really do a "sano" job (as Sean Daly calls it) on your V-1 install here.

 

If you need to get into the nose/dash area as well, I'll see if I can go from memory:

 

After the Tupperware is removed (including mirrors, of course), you'll need to remove the four screws in the armature for the windscreen. These are different lengths than (but same diameters as) the others and should have some sort of thread dope on them (or blue loctite), don't mix them up with the rest of the screws. After you remove the windscreen be sure to remove the little rubber grommets that cushion the back side of the screen from the armature (if they're not securely glued down). In case you're wondering, I've knocked them off accidently when removing the top dash and they've fallen down into the dark nether regions and that's probably the reason I first had to learn how to get the nose cone off in the first place!

 

Now pull the screws on the top dash and slide it up and off over the armature. That might give you enough access to just fish some wires through the spaces, but I've found it easier to at least pull the rest of the dash screws even without removing the panel and flex it out of the way to make running wires easier. If you need further disassembly instructions let me know and I can walk you through the rest of the dash and nose cone.

 

Have fun!