Pulling Swingarm/Replacing Neutral Switch?

[Woodie]

The neutral switch on the RTP is getting "lazy" (intermittent). Had to use the clutch in order to start it today, since the green light wouldn't come on. (It finally came on *after* I had the bike running)

 

So...I think I have to replace the switch, which is behind/in the swingarm. How hard is this? How costly? Will I need any special tools? Do I need to host a TechDaze-Winter Edition?

[bigboy]

hi

it,s not that difficult to do if you are mechanically minded.

place the bike on the centre stand or lift remove the rear wheel undo the rear caliper and secure it and make sure you loosen off the caliper line from the swinging arm. and remove abs sensor so everything is clear of the swinging arm.

Undo the rear shocker and basically you ready to go to work on the swinging arm i can do mine in an afternoon no major hassle any probs give a shout you can email if it,s easier i will send any tech data you may need.dsmgcontractors@aol.com

good luck.

regards

derek

[Dances_With_Wiener_Dogs]

How hard is this? How costly? Will I need any special tools? Do I need to host a TechDaze-Winter Edition?

 

Repair manual, 12mm hex key socket, 30mm socket, 1/2" - 3/8" socket adapter or 1/2" driver, long arm driver or breaker bar/pipe, Honda Moly 60 Paste, Torque Wrench capable of 150nm, Red Locktite or equivalent, wire brush to clean thread locker from threads, Various hex keys to remove various bits (rear brake caliper, rear shock reservior), T-25 TORX bit to remove ABS sensor, various sockets (rear wheel bolts, 17mm?, rear shock lower bolt), open/box end wrenches are also handy and fit where sockets won't

 

Get yourself the Haynes manual, so at least you'll have access to the torque values. The neutral switch is ~$50. You'll also want to pick up a few gaskets for the neutral switch. I've read that it's easier to put the gasket ON the switch assembly then put the assy into the back of the tranny rather than the other way around.

 

You should also get a tube of Honda Moly 60 Paste, a preferred spline lube. There are several sets of splines depending on how far you decide to break down the swingarm & final drive. I've found that a toothbrush is handy for getting the paste down into the valleys of the splines. Be sure to keep the final drive upright, so the oil stays put. When you disconnect the rear shock, the swingarm will drop so put something under the arm. I've found a one gallon paint can under the rear brake disk is just about perfect. Handy, since I don't own wheel stands.

 

You need a heat gun to melt the thread-lock on the final-drive pivot bolts and the swingarm pivot bolts. You wouldn't have to separate the final drive from the swingarm, but it'll allow you some additional inspection and might be easier to handle. The heat gun has to cook for near 10 minutes to soften the thread-lock and then you still have to apply a little torque to get it started.

 

The bodywork has to come off to access the swingarm bolts.

 

The whole thing really isn't hard, neither is the expense. Tools are hard to estimate since I don't know what you have. It's not likely that you can find the 30mm or 12mm hex at a neighborhood tool/home center without a special order. You might have to go to a specialty tool center to get those few items. I think I got the 30mm at Sears, but I had to order the 12mm hex from an outfit called Tacoma Screw. Local to me with a few stores. Grainger has both the 12mm Hex Bit Socket and the 30mm socket.

 

Have fun!

[Woodie]

OK..Steve scared me. I've decided that I can live with this problem for a while. At least until some of the other projects around the house are done, and the white stuff has settled outside to stay for a while.

 

Lubing the splines while I'm in there makes a lot of sense. I'm seriously wondering if I really want to take this on myself, vs taking it to the dealer and having them replace the switch and do the splines. OTOH, if I do it myself, I will *know* it got done the way I want it done. More pondering to do as I ride along.

 

Thanks for all the info/advice!

[Ken H.]

Woodie,

 

Another alternative, find someone in your area from this board who has had the swing arm off on one before and can help you through it. Steve's overview is spot on, but someone who has been through it will make it look like a breeze. It would be a shame to pay dealer bucks for this time consuming but not extremely technical repair.

 

If you want to ride to Kansas City we could do it in about four hours start to finish!

[Dances_With_Wiener_Dogs]

If you want to ride to Kansas City we could do it in about four hours start to finish!

Likewise, come on out to the PNW and I'll personally walk you through it! As to finding a person to help, post a request in the Ride Planning forum. You'll be surprised who might respond!

[Woodie]

Thanks to both offers...a road trip would be fun! However...I do have responsibilities that will keep me here for quite a bit. When I'm ready to do this (and have cleaned out the garage a bit! ), I'll post something in Events, see if I can entice someone with some experience to come visit & supervise.

[Green RT]

Something else to consider... Or maybe a question. Are there people with neutral indicator switches that work reliably, all the time, instantly. Mine has been intermittent since the bike was new. Depends on the temperature, time of day, state of the stock market, maybe some other things. Once in a while it works perfectly. Then it goes away for a few days. Sometimes if you wait awhile it it will come on. I had the impression that They All Do That. Right or wrong? If so, spending a lot of time/money to replace it might not cure anything.

[topdal46]

My 1999 RT had the Neutral Switch replaced once during the warranty period, and now at 45,000 miles it's acting up again, It did work correctly when it was new, but it seems to be a reacurring problem.

 

Has there be a redesign of the switch at all?

[Deaner]

I have never heard of a neutral switch running perfectly...