Carb Sticks?

[313_Matt]

The board here has convinced me to adjust my TBs myself. But for some reason I have been able to get by on my other bikes without carb sticks. It seems the BMW really needs them, so I should get a set.

 

I only have 2 cylinder bikes, so I don't necessarily need a 4 gauge set. (But who knows what I will have in the future?) I like to buy high quality tools, but don't feel the need to spend hundreds of dollars.

 

So what are the folks out there using? Anyone have a set they recommend? (URLs or links are appreciated.)

 

Thanks.

 

313-Matt

[bartster]

Matt, I have twinmax setup that seems to work fine. Ride Safe Detroit

[Chugger]

Build a manometer for 10.00 They work quite well.

[Pilgrim]

Build a manometer for 10.00 They work quite well.

 

Build a manometer for $1.25 - one that you can toss in your saddlebags for long trips. PM me if you want to find out some more about it - it's just clear plastic tubing.

 

Pilgrim

[bmweerman]

Personally I'm going to get one of these carbtune

 

Good Luck

 

Cameron

[Wooster]

Matt,

 

If you have a carb stick, well, that works. Use only two of the four columns. Me, I have a Twinmax; sold at many dealers, Bob's BMW, for one.

 

Wooster

[BULLman]

Since my Triumph has 3cylinders, I got one of these.

 

from the website

The Carbtune II is an innovative mechanical manometer which has the advantages of the mercury Carbtune, easy to read, accurate, simple, reliable, but it has no mercury or liquids, is compact, easily transportable and very robust. Carbtune II motorcycle carburetor synchronizer will easily and accurately sync the throttles on motorbikes and 4-stroke outboards. Each Carbtune II kit comes complete with warranty, comprehensive instructions, nitrile hoses, restricters, and 5mm and 6mm adapters to fit virtually any motorcycle.

 

The no mercury part got me.

[Ken H.]

Echoing some of the others, build yourself a water manometer. Most accurate and easiest thing going.

 

[tomk99r11]

Matt, good luck with whatever you decide to try. I built the manometer KenH showed you and it worked okay, and it is cheap. I would suggest you try this first since it is very inexpensive. Lot's of folks here use these religiously with good results. I however never was satisfied with some surging that I could not seem to get rid of, hence, I bought a Twinmax which I like very much. Some will say they have trouble with finite tuning of the Max, but I have not had any trouble getting it to settle in. If you can borrow one before purchase (they cost around $80 last I recall) that would be best. You can easily balance your TB's with instructions here, on IBMWR, or you shop manual. May take a couple fo tries to get it at optimum, but you can do it. Ride safely!

[ShovelStrokeEd]

Matt,

I use the Carb Stix from Motion Pro and have been using them for 20 or so years. I renew the mercury now and again and I have the access to dispose of it properly. Mercury has some drawbacks and can be toxic so there is a pretty good argument against them. I have gotten good results and am pleased with the way my bike(s) run.

 

A water manometer is cheap and easy to build. You can buy a slact tube manometer from a company called Dwyer Instruments and even carry it around with you.

 

A word of caution based on about 45 years of tuning and wrenching on motorcycles and other things mechanical. The throttle body sync is part of and, indeed, the last step in a process. First, compression needs to be near equal, then valve clearances have to be correct, then ignition needs to be seen to, then mixture needs to be right, then and only then do you attempt to balance the trottle bodies for equal vacuum. You ignore the other factors at the risk of chasing your tail like a 3 month old puppy needing to resync your shiznit every time conditions change. Right now, my S, with a bit over 46K on it comes back into perfect sync by just adjusting the valves and cleaning the plugs. It will probably condtinue to do so until the throttle cables break. It is amazing how little service the bike really requires once it is properly worn in. I ususally don't have to adjust the valves at all and rarely do the plugs need attention. That brings my service down to basic fluid changes and the occasional tweak. I am gonna need brake pads some time in the next 4K or so.

[OlGeezer]

I've been using Carbtune II device for quite a while. I'm very happy with it. It does have to be cleaned every time, but that's pretty easy. I've compared the results with a Twinmax and the resultsare the same. There's no mercury to deal with and it's completely portable. What convinced me to get a Carbtune II is that I like the "analog" feel of watching the "mercury" (actually stainless steel rods) go up and down.

 

It's not a cheap solution, but my preferred one.

 

The problem with mercury tubes other than the obvious hazzard is that if you "blip" the throttle too hard, you put bubbles in the mercury which renders the instrument useless. I got pretty good about getting them out, though (more blipping).

 

HTH

[SWB]

The last street bike I road was a Honda 650 twin back around 1985, which is also the last time I used carb stix. I purchased the Twinmax this time around because I just didn't want to mess with storing the carbstix (i.e. they need to either be stored upright, and/or capped, or the mercury must be removed). But $90.00 is a hefty price for convenience, and as some have said, a water based manometer is doable for less than $10.00, again, as long as you're willing to spend the time to put it together and then store it. I just finished resynching the TB's, tossed the twinmax in the toolbox with my motorcycle tools, and I'm done.

 

And, the previous gentleman is correct. After about 500-1000 miles, when the throttle cables have stretched about all they're going to stretch, there isn't likely to be a whole lot of adjustments required. But then again, it's a part of the tune up process for a reason, and without some sort of manometer, you're just guessing whether the throttle's are in sync. "Just a bit" out of sync can be one heck of a lot of vibration at 80MPH.

 

I just fixed a problem that's probably plagued me since I picked up the bike at 50K (even though BMW supposedly "went through the bike"), and it's at 54K now. The problem was due to a bad ignition wire, and at this point (after I got the wire off the bike, tested it myself, and had the coil terminals break up in my hands), probably bad contact at the coil as well. After replacing the coil, wires (both aftermarket - Nology) and plugs (Autolites), resynching the TB's (it was definitedly needed), the bike runs better than it ever has. There is still some minor roughness at idle after a "hot start". Since I didn't do "everything" I could I'm pretty sure I could resolve that too, and will, at my 60K service (testing and adjusting the Throttle Position Sensor, replacing throttle cables and T. advance cable, adjusting cables to ensure adequate slack, and fixing a crimpted fuel regulator line).

 

Bottom line: Just go Twinmax, and be done with it. Maybe split the cost with a friend; it'll never wear out from overuse.

[donhallman]

Like others I did the $1.25 trick. I use a light colored oil for the fluid. The less you use, the more sensitive. Also, If you are really out of balance, you will suck the oil into one cylinder.

[Chugger]

Like others I did the $1.25 trick. I use a light colored oil for the fluid. The less you use, the more sensitive. Also, If you are really out of balance, you will suck the oil into one cylinder.

 

1.25 ? It cost me about 9.00

Home Cheepo was 2.50 for 20FT coil 1/32 wall tubing

Local plumbing supply 1/16 wall tubing 30 ft long

I used ATF fluid

[Pilgrim]

Like others I did the $1.25 trick. I use a light colored oil for the fluid. The less you use, the more sensitive. Also, If you are really out of balance, you will suck the oil into one cylinder.

 

I continue to be baffled about why anyone uses anything but water.

 

To me, its primary advantages are ready availability and the lack of anything happening other than a cough and sputter when you suck it through the engine. And you will suck it through the engine sometime, making big clouds of blue smoke (outdoors, if you're lucky) and fouling the plugs.

 

Pilgrim

[313_Matt]

Well, I have a big thank-you to say to everyone here.

 

Being cheap, I used the tubing method. This was really easy to use, and the bike seems a touch more powerful and a little smoother.

 

 

Thanks, all.

 

313-Matt