R1200RT - Switch to Synthetic

[PhillipF]

I had posted an earlier thread about what I considered to be an unusual amount of oil consumption by my R1200RT. It is using about 8 ounces every 900 miles. I've had 4 boxers (two hexheads), and this is the first time that any of them have used a measurable amount of oil. The only difference with the R1200RT is that I didn't switch to synthetic oil at my 600 mile service.

 

The bike now has about 1,600 miles on it, and I just switched to Mobile 1 20W-50W motorcycle oil. I'm taking a trip to the Grand Canyon next week, and we'll also be going through Death Valley. I plan to ride about 2,200 miles in 10 days. I'll report back to you if I notice any difference in oil consumption.

 

Phil

[skyking44]

Having owned six BMWs I wait until at least 12,000 miles before changing to synthetic. On my 1200Rt, my oil consumption has been 8oz. in 3600 miles. I believe the first 600-1000 break-in miles are critical to the extended life and oil usage on the boxers.

[ezymount]

BMW allows 1 qt per 1000 miles during break-in., which they say is not excessive.. Anything above that, may warrant further investigation by your dealer...? (Per my Dealer)

[sideways]

My 1200 RT used slightly more than 5 qts in the first 6500 miles. In the last 2500 miles, usage was about a quart and a half, so there seems to be some improvement. If the usage continues trending down, I'll be OK with it. Still, I'm taken aback by this much oil burn in a new vehicle. In previous threads, someone explained, as I recall, that the BMW boxer cylinder coatings are so hard that it just takes the rings a long time to seat, and that these coatings contribute to the engines longevity, early oil burn being the price paid for long life. I sure hope that's right!

[Warren_H]

My dealer said don't switch until 12,000 miles - same as skyking44 recommended.

[ChrisM]

Traditional wisdom says that (due to BMW's extremely hard rings and cylinder wall) the rings won't seat properly on synthetic oil, and that the process (on dino) takes 12k or longer, depending on how hard you ride (and the consensus has generally been to whip those ponies).

 

I have no idea whether all this has changed with the 1200.

[ShovelStrokeEd]

Traditional wisdom is full of shiznit in this case.

Synthetic, dino, doesn't matter a whit. The thing the prolongs the wear in of the engine is the silly timid wear in procedure mandated by BMW and the fact that most folks have no understanding of the process. My 1100S has been on full synthetic since the 600 mile service, has never burned so much as 1 quart in 3K miles, more like 8 oz, has better compression and leak down now at 47K than it did at 6K.

 

BMW, Porche, Audi, Corvette and many other cars come with full synth in the crankcase right off the delivery truck. Couple of those motors have similar cylinder wall coatings to those used on our bikes as well. No issues. Its all in how you wear the motor in.

[Tommy_Boy]

So what's the "nonconventional" wisdom say about break-in? I'm picking up my '06 R12RT on Saturday and would be VERY interested in alternatives to the factory-suggested process.

[Warren_H]

Here is a dose of non-factory wisdom. My dealer advised me to be careful with the new tires especially on the paint.

 

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[ShovelStrokeEd]

Yep, that's exactly the way to do it.

 

The factory suggested 4K RPM limit seems to provoke people into being gentle with the throttle as well and thus ruins their window for proper ring seal. I did use 4K as my redline, for the first 50 miles then I started increasing things.

 

Gradually increasing load, gradualy increasing RPM, rapidly sealing motor. Its simple realy. You can wear in your motor in 50 miles or so if you have the right conditions available. As stated in the linked information. A racetrack would be the ideal place, especially someplace with long straights so you can get those higher gear/high load pulls.

[BFish]

So what's the "nonconventional" wisdom say about break-in? I'm picking up my '06 R12RT on Saturday and would be VERY interested in alternatives to the factory-suggested process.

 

give it to shovel for a week. after a crosscountry commute it will be broken in!

[ShovelStrokeEd]

Won't take a week. Gimme a day, I'll bring it back fully worn in, a smile on its face, its tongue hanging out and about 1K miles more on the clock.

 

Heck, this is easy, you oughta see how we break in the drag race motors.

[dmenace]

Ed

I'm curious to know if you have any experience with Redline synthetic oil in an aircooled bike application. And no you can't break my bike........in.

[ShovelStrokeEd]

Yes and why not? It won't take very long.

 

I have used the Redline in my R1100RS with good results. That means nothing blew up on me including the M94 transmission that is still in the bike after 11 years.

 

My current preference is Mobil 1 products there full synthetic extended life oils seem wonderful to me. Transmission shifts like butter and I realized a 2 mpg overall highway milage improvement with the stuff in the crankcase, transmission and final drive, that over BMW synthetic and in my 1100S.

 

Its SJ oil but, I don't give a crap for BMW's reccomendations anyway. 15W50 in the motor, 75W140 where the gears go. I can't say enough good about this stuff.

[dmenace]

Thanks Ed. I saw a research in Motorcycle consumer news about motor oil comparisons and Mobil 1 was the best of the items tested. I just happened to read Redlines line about increasing HP using their products and it was intriging.

[JayW]

I think mototuneusa gives well-meaning, but poor advice. I broke my R1200RT in by carefully following BMWs advice (varied speeds, not exceeding 4000RPM) for the first 600 miles then gradually being more aggressive with the throttle. After almost 6000 miles now, I am using almost no oil, and I used very little even in the early weeks. I recently spent a Saturday at the track, and used no oil there either.

 

Jay