05' R1200RT Wiring diagram

[Dave Glen]

Could someone please let me know where I can get a wiring diagram for my 05 RT. The preload on the rear shock has stopped working although the damping adjustment still works. BMW has quoted me $1000 to fit a new control module to ascertain whether it is the module or the shock. If I had the wiring diagram I thought I may be able to hot wire the preload circuit to see if it works, before I pull out the module to check the contacts. The preload failed after a 600klm ride in torrential rain with blow you off the road wind, so I suspect wet/corroded plug/socket contacts may be the cause.

Regards

Dave Glen

St Arnaud,Victoria,Australia

[Satguy]

Hi Dave:

 

Your best option and cheapest....is to take the bike to a BMW dealer and have them hook up the GT-1 computer. There are tests in the GT-1 that will verify the switch gear on the bars etc. and tell a good tech. if the shock is OK all within about 15 minutes.

 

The wiring diagrams for the bikes are on a separate CD called SLP2 or something like that.

 

You might also be able to use a GS-911 to do the same tests.

 

I have an 05 1200RT as well, and the switch gear on the bars could be the cause. the ESA switch was a separate pod onthe 2005 RT.... you could pull that apart and test the switches easily enough.

 

Good Luck

 

[hopz]

Dave... send me a PM with your email address....

[malcolmblalock]

The GT1 will test it quite well, and tell you what you want (or maybe don't want) to know. The GS 911 will not. Having it tested cost me $17 at the dealership. On mine, the current draw was too high, causing the Canbus to shut down the circuit to the preload adjuster. Damping works great, but no preload.

[hopz]

The GT1 will test it quite well... On mine, the current draw was too high, causing the Canbus to shut down the circuit to the preload adjuster.

 

What did you/they do about it?

[Dave Glen]

Thanks all for your help, my dealer has checked the ESA on the computer (I don't know which configuration) and it only identifies a fault, not where the fault is. I thought that if I had the wiring diagram I would be able to hot wire the preload circuit (bypass canbus) and see if the shock will cycle up and down. There are four wires coming from the shock, one will be earth, one for up, one for down and one possibly a position sensor. I don't want to cook the unit by putting 12 volts to the wrong wire. I had't considered the switch being faulty as the damping adjustment still works but I will check it as well.

Thanks again

Dave Glen

dave@stardrafting.com.au

St Arnaud,Vic,Australia

[hopz]

check your email

[malcolmblalock]

The GT1 will test it quite well... On mine, the current draw was too high, causing the Canbus to shut down the circuit to the preload adjuster.

 

What did you/they do about it?

 

I had three options: Live with it (and stuck on "2 up" that was not a good option) 2) Replace with BMW ESAs (almost $3,000), which was not a good option, or 3) Replace with non-ESA shocks (bought Hyperpros). Bike had over 72K miles, so it was time for a change, anyway.

[Dave Glen]

Once again thank you for your help, particularly Bob for the wiring diagram, I will let you all know how I go with checking the preload unit. I wonder if it's just a case of the mechanical part of the adjuster binding up causing a high current draw. BMW seems to have an aversion to grease (I have already had a swingarm bearing fail because of no grease)so it might be stuck tight with no lubricant.

[Satguy]

Your dealer is not up to speed..... There are tests in GT-1 that allow the tech to cycle the preload etc. It tells much more than just a fault.

 

I tested a few of the shocks when I worked at a dealer and there was some kind of mechanical binding that caused the preload adjuster to fail. I never had the time to actually take one completely apart, but there were no individual parts available anyhow. You can indeed connect 12v directly to the connector and cycle it back and forth.

 

Good Luck

 

[Rob L]

I wonder if you would share the wiring diagram with me? I am having the identical problem with my new Hyperpro rear shock and would like to test the shock itself to see if it is working.

Thanks,

Rob

[Utazo89]

Hello Hopz.

I know this is an old thread, but I'll try. I just bought a K1300GT/2009. It looks great, but the seat heating does not work properly. I am trying to figure out the reason with a friend of mine, who is an EE. Would it be possible that you send me the wiring diagram for this GT? Thanks.

[14TLC]

Hello Hopz.

I know this is an old thread, but I'll try. I just bought a K1300GT/2009. It looks great, but the seat heating does not work properly. I am trying to figure out the reason with a friend of mine, who is an EE. Would it be possible that you send me the wiring diagram for this GT? Thanks.

 

PM me your VIN number and I can send you the wiring diagram.

 

First you check the heating wire. Measure the resistance at the connector pins on the seat side. And check for disconnected wires at the connector. In most cases this is the reason, easy to forget about the wire when removing the seat and end up with pulled wires.

[Dave Glen]

G,day All

This thread came as a shock, I couldn't remember posting it in the last few days since checking the forum last. I thought CRAFT had finally hit me until I checked the date.

Further on from the original thread, I ended up stripping the ESA preload unit and found the internally threaded piston had bound at full travel. It took a little effort to free it but once it was free it cycled easily both ways.

It still wouldn't work with the switch and as its a 250 klm trip to the nearest dealer I decided to simply power directly from the battery with a switch under the seat and thats how it has been ever since.

Regards

Dave GLen

Australia

[dirtrider]

G,day All

This thread came as a shock, I couldn't remember posting it in the last few days since checking the forum last. I thought CRAFT had finally hit me until I checked the date.

Further on from the original thread, I ended up stripping the ESA preload unit and found the internally threaded piston had bound at full travel. It took a little effort to free it but once it was free it cycled easily both ways.

It still wouldn't work with the switch and as its a 250 klm trip to the nearest dealer I decided to simply power directly from the battery with a switch under the seat and thats how it has been ever since.

 

Morning Dave

 

On your 2005 1200 bike there is a ZFE (chassis computer update) to increase the current output available to operate the rear strut (shock) preload motor. Sometime that is enough to make them work & sometimes it isn't. Sounds like you have it working manually so that is a good work-around.

 

[Dave Glen]

Thanks D.R. the manual set up is fine (I don't change it often) and I'm not gouged by the dealer both in time and money.

 

Regards

Dave Glen

Australia