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Broken Tupperware


90RedRider

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On the black triangle shaped side piece below the seat and above the foot pegs, I have broken the nub or male post that inserts into the body tupperware. Has anyone found a workable way to fix this? I was considering drilling tiny hole in this 3/4 in. long piece and then screw from the outside of black plastic piece to hold it in place. Does anyone think a glue would work. I can't be the only one to break this . Sid

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The locater pin on the black triangle body panel was the first causality on my bike years ago. I’ve tried different fixes over time, but the latest, now 3 years, has worked well. I cut the end off a plastic tire valve extender about the same length as the original pin, and used a good 2 part epoxy to hold it in place. Super Glue never held up. The fix looks fine and works well.

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Don't feel bad. I broke mine too, even when they explained to me how to properly remove the thing dopeslap.gif. Tried a few things but none worked. So I ordered a new part. $75.00 crazy.gif

 

Now I know what not to do. grin.gif

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Michael Fajans

My solution was to 1) cut a piece of wood to exactly fit into the hollow behind the pin and epoxy that into place

2) temporarily glue the broken pin back into place and then drill a 16th inch hole down through the middle of the pin and into the wood then 3) epoxy the broken piece into place and at the same time epoxy a 16th inch pin all the way down throught the pin into the wood. On a new one I did all of that before I broke it off and have had no more problems.

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David Sharpe

I did the same thing, twice. dopeslap.gif I fixed it both times with Plastex. After the second fix I added a little grease to the rubber o-ring and post. So far no repeat breakage.

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On the black triangle shaped side piece below the seat and above the foot pegs, I have broken the nub or male post that inserts into the body tupperware. Has anyone found a workable way to fix this? I was considering drilling tiny hole in this 3/4 in. long piece and then screw from the outside of black plastic piece to hold it in place. Does anyone think a glue would work. I can't be the only one to break this . Sid

 

Glue is out. The material is a polyolefin, that is difficult to glue. Besides, the pin that broke is too skinny to properly glue.

 

What I did was to first select a screw size that was a little smaller than the pin is, then drill and tap a hole in the part to match the screw.

 

Then thread in the screw (minus the head) to the right depth. Now, to finish it off, shrink some shrink tubing around the exposed threads to bring them up to the required diameter. This will also eliminate the sharp threads from grinding against the plastic bodywork it fits into.

 

Be sure to allow the shrink tubing to stick out a cople of millimeters past the end of the screw, so it forms a short radius off the end once shrunk. This will help guide the cover into the hole when installing it.

 

Bob.

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Londoncallin
A little dab of any grease sure makes it slip on and off very easily.

 

Another technique that helps when removing the cover is to reach through the opening with your finger and push the pin out from behind rather than pulling it out. thumbsup.gif

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skinny_tom (aka boney)

Of course you could always leave it broken. No one will ever notice (except you) and there's no chance of breaking it again. DAMHIK. dopeslap.gif

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On the black triangle shaped side piece below the seat and above the foot pegs, I have broken the nub or male post that inserts into the body tupperware. Has anyone found a workable way to fix this? I was considering drilling tiny hole in this 3/4 in. long piece and then screw from the outside of black plastic piece to hold it in place. Does anyone think a glue would work. I can't be the only one to break this . Sid

 

Glue is out. The material is a polyolefin, that is difficult to glue. Besides, the pin that broke is too skinny to properly glue.

 

What I did was to first select a screw size that was a little smaller than the pin is, then drill and tap a hole in the part to match the screw.

 

Then thread in the screw (minus the head) to the right depth. Now, to finish it off, shrink some shrink tubing around the exposed threads to bring them up to the required diameter. This will also eliminate the sharp threads from grinding against the plastic bodywork it fits into.

 

Be sure to allow the shrink tubing to stick out a cople of millimeters past the end of the screw, so it forms a short radius off the end once shrunk. This will help guide the cover into the hole when installing it.

 

Bob.

 

Glue is out

 

Wow! Same thing happened to me so I went to the hardware store And purchased Plumbers ABS/PVC pipe Adhesive - That was over a year ago. Seems to be working fine. clap.gif

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Glue is out

 

Wow! Same thing happened to me so I went to the hardware store And purchased Plumbers ABS/PVC pipe Adhesive - That was over a year ago. Seems to be working fine. clap.gif

Good call, Chugger! grin.gif

 

I can't tell whether you're already aware of this or not by the way you phrased your response, but the ABS "glue" should work very well as it's not really just a glue. It works similarly to the Plastex as it contains a solvent that more "welds" the piece back on by dissolving the two ends and re-forming the joint as the solvent evaporates. The Plastex works basically the same way, except that the Plastex is a finely powdered plastic (that is activated/dissolved by the solvent) that can build-up depressions, fill large holes, "weld" cracks and even mold missing parts (if you've got another example of the part you need handy grin.gif ). cool.gif

 

Otherwise, a fresh can of ABS glue (all the solvent hasn't evaporated in the 3 years it's been sitting on the shelf with the original seal broken! dopeslap.gif ) should work just about as well if all you're looking to do is "glue" a broken part back on. Not to mention it's MUCH easier to find and MUCH cheaper! thumbsup.gif

 

Now, repainting the plastic after repairs are completed is another story! crazy.gif

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I agree with Boney. My 1100RT didn't have them at all when I bought the bike and put over 62K miles on it. My 1150 had both but is down to one now confused.gif. I wonder how that happened.

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