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Techron test


nooner

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Techron test

 

I use Techron to clean/prevent deposits from building up on my intake valves.

 

I tested Techron Fuel System Cleaner against STP Gas Treatment.

I put an old spark plug in each fluid. I did not dilute the cleaners

with gas – they were used full strength. I let them soak for 5 minutes.

Then I brushed them with a toothbrush. Then I scraped them with

The toothbrushes handle.

 

I admit that this was not the most scientific test. I made no attempt to

simulate operating temperatures or anything else.

 

These two products failed to remove any noticeable amount of deposits

on the plugs. The picture is the After picture. The Before picture was

not included because it would be a waste of bandwith.

 

What do you think?

 

 

tech1.jpg

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I think you pretty much summarized it when you said that this wasn't a scientific test. However, you have proven that a five-minute soaking does nothing for older plugs which is good to know if you want to clean up and carry some older plugs as emergency spares.

 

The true test, however, is how are your valves and piston crown? Have you done a leak-down test or gone so far as to pull the heads in order to see if the Techron is doing the job it claims to do.

 

I use Techron, too, just before each oil change. And at 80K, my L/R leakdown tests were 6% and 7% respectively. That doesn't PROVE that Techron works, but it certainly is encouraging.

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Nooner:

 

Interesting test. You're right, it wasn't really scientific. I don't personally use fuel additives.

 

HOWEVER, one explanation for why your test did not obtain any visible removal of carbon is that perhaps such fuel additives are designed to work at very high temperatures produced by combustion. Just a thought.

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celebrationrev

Anecdotal only: My XS 1100 had 4 carbs with a well-earned reputation for problems. On more than one road trip I had serious trouble with the thing running so rich that plugs were fouled in 100 miles. The first time I nursed it home. After that I read on the XS board about Techron. Carried a bottle with me from then on. When the carbs started acting up I'd run a bottle through and the problem was always fixed. I'm assuming the problem was caused by dirty gas from back-woods stations that fouled needle seats or...and that the Techron's detergents cleared it out.

That's even less scientific than your test, and I don't know that it transfers to a bike with fuel injection, but a lot of guys with carb bikes swear by the stuff.

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more anecdotal evidence.

1996 R1000RT and 2002 K1200LT

whenever i have filled the tank with what turned out to be "bad" gas...

a recommended amount of techroline has ALWAYS fixed the problem in less than 1/4 of a tank

just seat-of-the-pants stuff.... nothing scientific

 

greg

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Best maintenance is oil change at 2500 miles, even though tests show you can go to 7000 on average.

Then, using 91 octane prevents the knocks/pings.

The fuel additives and ultra synthetic lubricants have shown to help older engines where the cylinder walls are pitted. The lubricants effectively seal the pistons and provide greater compression.

For just about any post 1970's motor that hasn't turned over 150k you won't get a return on your investment for using synthetics or additives.

There may also be a performance gain when running at high RPM's, but I consider that to be for the doods that have bottomless pockets and their own pit crew.

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Best maintenance is oil change at 2500 miles, even though tests show you can go to 7000 on average.

 

Do you have any facts to back that up?

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I'm perplexed why a lot of people second guess a manufacturers recommendation for oil change.

 

The metallurgy of the new engines may be the basis for current engineers recommendation. My SUV has a 20K mile recommended change (that has been trumped by the car computer system). some of the owners changed original oil at 3K miles - they're cars didn't break in and they're complaining about oil consumption..

 

Changing syn oil in an alum. engine at 3K miles is throwing money away.

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Joe Frickin' Friday
HOWEVER, one explanation for why your test did not obtain any visible removal of carbon is that perhaps such fuel additives are designed to work at very high temperatures produced by combustion. Just a thought.

 

The intake tract is warm, but considerably cooler than the combustion chamber.

That said, the warmth of the intake tract would increase the solvent activity of the Techron, helping it to soften deposits in the intake manifold and on the backside of the valve. Also, imagine running a full tank of Techron-treated fuel through the engine. This takes several hours, during which time the intake tract is more or less continuously bathed in fresh solvent.

 

Given that the OP stated that he uses Techron to clean/prevent deposits on the intake valves, his test didn't duplicate the relevant conditions for that purpose:

 

-it was too short (five minutes, versus a few hours in the engine);

-it was too cold (room temp, versus maybe a couple hundred degrees F on the intake valve head)

-the deposits were not what you'd encounter on the backside of an intake valve (combustion ash/soot on the plugs, versus varnish/gum on the valve)

 

Nooner, welcome to the wonderful world of peer review; this openness and feedback is how real, honest-to-god scientific results can be obtained. cool.gif Now that we've discussed it, you can (if you're interested) go back and try to develop a test that better duplicates real-world conditions in the engine. thumbsup.gif Next time I'd suggest a gummed-up carburetor left soaking in a bowl of Techron up in an attic on a hot, sunny afternoon for a couple of hours, and seeing what happens to the deposits.

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You need to remember that Techron is not intended to be used as a solvent! As you saw, it doesn't work well as one. If all you need to keep your engine internals clean was a solvent of some sort, then all you'd have to do is to pour lacqer thinner in there!

 

Unfortunately, there is a lot more to it than this.

 

Bob.

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Joe Frickin' Friday
You need to remember that Techron is not intended to be used as a solvent!

 

If you're going to dissolve deposits on the backside of an intake valve, you're going to have to use a solvent. crazy.gif That said, you're right, there's more to it. There are numerous additional requirements:

 

-can't create combustion chamber deposits of its own

 

-must NOT dissolve existing O-ring, seal, and tank materials

 

-can't drastically alter the octane number of the fuel

 

-can't damage O2 sensors/cats

 

And probably many others that only the Chevron folks know about. wink.gif

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