Tire Change - Remove the Rotors?

[Aluminum_Butt]

I just got started on my first do-it-yourself tire change. I was planning to remove the rotors, especially on the front, to make changing the tire less risky. But I pulled one of the screws from the carrier, and the hole in the carrier is much larger than the hole in the rim - in other words I can't tell how I'd get the thing re-centered when I put it back on. There is a lot of play in the alignment.

 

Am I missing something? Is removing the rotors a bad idea?

 

TIA!

[Bobmws]

Build a simple square frame from 2x4's that will support the rim and keep the rotors from contacting the floor. Some guys use a milk crate.

[RFW]

Build a simple square frame from 2x4's that will support the rim and keep the rotors from contacting the floor. Some guys use a milk crate.

 

Exactly. All you need to do is lay 3 2x4s on the floor in the rough shape of a triangle, and set the tire on them. To break the bead, I do this in the basement and lever another 2x4 (this one with a bevelled "nose") onto the bead, using yet another 2x4 as the lever against the ceiling.

 

Works just fine. Even built a simple balencing rig to balence the tires. No vibration at any speed.

 

Bob.

[kioolt]

I use the new tire to help in removing the old tire by placing the new tire under the old tire and wheel. When installing the new tire use the old tire as a cushion. I have done it that way for years.

[Motorrad4fun]

Sounds like this could save some big $$ for all, and let the dealer reexamine his $95 charge for doing this!!

 

2 questions:

 

1. How do you break the bead and remove the tire?

A tire iron kit??

 

2. How do you balance the wheel?

 

Thanks and great original question

[Bob Palin]

I break the bead with a JC Whitney bead breaker, it's not worth all the effort to do it without a decent tool.

Many people here use the Marc Parnes balancer, I have another type which included a stand but have no idea where I got it.

[ESokoloff]

Heres some info... http://www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing-doc.html

 

And here... http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/sh...rt=all&vc=1

[RFW]

Sounds like this could save some big $$ for all, and let the dealer reexamine his $95 charge for doing this!!

 

2 questions:

 

1. How do you break the bead and remove the tire?

A tire iron kit??

 

2. How do you balance the wheel?

 

1. As mentioned in an earlier post, I have a 2x4 that I have cut a 45° bevel on the front. I stand the 2x4 with the bevelled "nose" on the tire, with the straight side (the bevel was only on one side) right smack hard against the rim. The 2x4 is pointing up, and angled away about 10° or 15° away from the center axis of the wheel. This ensures that when levered downward, the nose of the 2x4 doesn't slip outward and just end end up pressing uselessly in the middle of the sidewall.

 

Then I take a ~6' length of 2x4 and lever the vertical one down. The lever point is against a ceiling joist in the basement, and presses down on the vertical 2x4 about a foot from the end that levers against the ceiling.

 

You really have to heave, and it helps to get someone standing on the sidewall right next to where you are levering. But it works great, and you can't beat the cost!

 

2. I welded a balencing rig up out of square tubing. I used 4 skateboard bearings. Check out the following site for details....

http://www.webbikeworld.com/Reviewed-motorcycle-products/balancer/

....The one I made is similar. One trick not mentioned, is to remove the grease shields from the bearings, and clean out all traces of grease using lacquer thinner or similar, then lube them with WD40. This will eliminate all traces of resistance caused by the grease.

 

Bob.

[ESokoloff]

Find some more info here... http://www2.i-bmw.com/ubbthreads/showfla...mp;o=0&vc=1