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Question for wrenchers


goji

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Hi all,

Do experienced wrenchers have a preference between hex and Torx bits that are permanently fixed to 3/8" or 1/4" sockets vs. bits that are removable and can be inserted into 3/8" or 1/4" socket adapters?

 

I am a novice wrencher but I do want to become proficient at DIY on my '04 RT. I've changed my oil and removed/ mounted my wheels in the process of having my tires changed. While I used the standard tool kit for most of my DIYs thus far I am not certain if the torques I applied met the bikes specification. Plus, while the hex and Torx keys are fine for now I would prefer to use a ratchet type device for the hex and torx bolts on the bike. I have already invested in a torque wrench but need to decide upon which configuration of bits and sockets to get.

 

Best,

Goji

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For small stuff I like the bits that will fit a screwdriver handle or 1/4 inch adapter. For anything that requires torque, 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive, I want the bit to be part of the socket.

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I try to use my 1/4 drive ratchet and extensions for everything possible, at least up thru 6mm bolts. 1/4" drive gets into tight spots and the torque is "self-limiting". Only with larger fasteners, 8mm and up, do I use the 3/8" drive. I use torx and hex keys which are 1-piece, generally - they are more solid feeling and not likely to come apart when in a tight spot.

 

Stuart Ostroff

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I changed an engine for a guy and he left the old one to me. When I drained the oil there was a couple gals of antifreeze in the pan also. When I removed the head on one side there was a screwdriver bit impaled into the top of a piston. it had bounced around some and done plenty of damage including puncturing the combustion chamber. I don't use bits around mechanical items as the magnets can't be trusted to always hold them in place. I surmised that someone had worked on this fellow's truck and dropped the bit down the injector and decided that he didn't want to do an engine teardown to retrieve it!

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I think a full set sockets of each type is really the only way to go in the long run. They just work so much better than bits in adapters.

 

And now for the new "hexheads" bikes you have to have a set of E-Torx sockets too!

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i own both

removable bits for EXTERNAL ONLY and fixed for everything else.

btw

you really don't have an adequate tool set unless you have both sets mentioned, as well as T-handle and regular allen wrenches, flat and ball end, in both sae and metric.

of course you will eventually realize that no matter what you own tool wise you'll always need something else

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I'm a new believer in less is better. For example, my 04 BMW tool kit is sparse. I believe the kits are designed for the fastener heads on the bike. I have four hexhead tools, because I believe there are only four hexhead types on the bike. Case in point. I have a 3mm hexhead stock tool that doesn't reach my dash tupperware because of a shelf I installed. I needed about an 8" extension. I shopped everywhere and finally found a 3mm socket in a 3/8" drive on Sears online. My choice of socket is 1/4" & I also believe it's torque is limited. I got my socket with a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter. Now I simply hook up my screw driver drive 1/4" to remove/tighten the tupperware.

 

I also think one should have a bike set of tools and the balance in a garage set. On the road in the event of a breakdown you don't need to fish for two sockets within twenty. Things get misplaced lost or I wind up with dozens of tools but not the one I need.

 

Now I keep all my bike bag sockets in one zipbaggie, hex sockets & original hex in one bag, extensions, rachets and larger stock tools in the pockets. The universel sets of torx & allan wrenchs (in the colored handles) are in the garage (they're worthless bling bling). the garage set of sockets I connect by bending a piece of piano wire in the shape of a safety pin and string the sockets on the wire.

I have been careless with my housekeeping of my bike bag tools (like not putting them back in the bag), but I'm trying to improve with this method.So far it's working.

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ShovelStrokeEd

Rags,

Good ideas all. I'd like to add a simple thing for those of you who are tool rich like me. Tool poor might be a better term. My box weighs something like 1500 lbs.

 

I stay pretty organized and have a roller cart that allows me to pull the tools I need, marry it with the parts I need and roll on over to the bike. Its the nutz for garage work.

 

For the road, I have found it best to just set up for each individual job. So, my oil change bag contains an inexpensive 3/8 drive breaker bar, a filter wrench, a 10mm hex socket bit. I carry this in a zippered cash bag I obtained from my local bank branch. They used to be free but they are only a couple of bucks max.

 

Another bag has my valve adjust stuff. 4 Feelers, 10mm sutubby wrench, 3 mm allen wrench, spark plug socket and another breaker bar, 6mm hex wrench for the rocker cover, and a chop stick for TDC.

 

You get the idea. You don't have to use the best tools in the world for this, after all, how many trips are gonna involve a valve adjustment in the parking lot. Something to remember is you need to work with your road tools now and then so you can retain familiarity. Even with the fancy stacked boxes and rolling carts, take the stuff out of the saddle bags every once and awhile and work with that.

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Be careful when tightening smaller bolts. My opinion is that most people over tighten them. A 1/4" drive setup can do some real damage when tightening a 6mm bolt. You could pull the threads right out of the cylinder head when tightening the valve cover bolt. If unsure buy a torque wrench. That being said you can't be sure unless you have a torque wrench. This is the tool that should be bought with a socket set. I own 4 ranging from a few inch pounds to 100 ft lbs. and there is a 250 ft. lbs one in the future for the Paralever bolts.

 

Just my opinion.

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