Clunk is now a vibrating crunch.

[Whip]

....about 30 to 50 mph....pull in the clutch....coast...engine off or on. It's almost a grind, not quite, but it is getting worse. Road imperfections seem to agitate the problem.

 

The wheel has no play in it with the 3 and 9....6 and 12 push pull and torque test.

 

 

If I go real slow(parking lot speed) I can feel somethin vibrating/grinding when I lean the bike over to make u-turns or figure 8s.

 

 

How do I check the "U-joint"???

 

Prolly not safe to ride any longer.

 

 

R 1150 GS Adventure

 

25k

 

 

 

 

[OoPEZoO]

ugh.....that sucks.

 

There are two u-joints in the drive shaft, and the drive shaft itself can split into two pieces. One joint is down at the final drive, and the other is up at the rear of the transmission. You can get to the rear one by just pulling the final drive. If you want to look at the one in the front, you must pull the whole swing arm as well.

 

The only way to "check" them is to just feel them out and see if there is any play. You might be able to get an idea with the bike on the center stand, with it in neutral. Then try spinning the rear wheel and listen for a clunk. You can also then put it in gear and attempt to spin the wheel. Then listen and feel for something odd. You won't know for sure without pulling the swingarm

 

The front joint looks pretty much like this

 

and here is a shot of the rear.

[bendbill]

[quote=Whip

 

Prolly not safe to ride any longer.

 

 

R 1150 GS Adventure

 

25k

 

 

 

 

You're smart to play it safe, since it sounds like a u-joint. When my 1150 failed at 32K, the rear wheel locked up.

 

 

[Jim Moore]

When mine went bad you could feel a definite "clunk-clunk" as you spun the wheel by hand.

[ElevenFifty]

Does the increased symptom when leaned point to a bearing rather than a u-joint? Is it possible that the problem is in the front wheel bearings and not the rear wheel at all? Sound source can be deceiving at speed.

[Dave Faria]

At 25k miles my guess would not be the drive shaft. I might be wrong. I would think the crown bearing in the rear drive. Since you said the "vibration/grinding" is more noticeable when leaning the bike over doing a figure eight. When you check for play in the rear wheel the drive needs to be cold. As the bike is ridden things "warm up" and tolerances close up so there is less play in the bearings. It has been a while since I read your original post so have you checked your rear drive magnet and were there any metal flakes??? If there is a rhythm to the noise does it correlate to the wheel rotation??? Or is it faster. The drive shaft rotates abt 3 times faster than the wheel.

[tallman]

Time for a stethoscope. Have someone do the turning.

Doesn't "sound" (sorry ) good at all.

It may be time

no matter what Johnny 5 sez.

Good luck.

 

[Mark K]

How do I check the "U-joint"???

 

 

 

I'm not real familiar with that bike, but I knew my driveshaft was headed out when I pulled back the boot between the swingarm/final drive and small bits of metal and rubber fell out. Does your bike have the same boot?

[T__]

....about 30 to 50 mph....pull in the clutch....coast...engine off or on. It's almost a grind, not quite, but it is getting worse. Road imperfections seem to agitate the problem.

 

The wheel has no play in it with the 3 and 9....6 and 12 push pull and torque test.

 

 

If I go real slow(parking lot speed) I can feel somethin vibrating/grinding when I lean the bike over to make u-turns or figure 8s.

 

 

How do I check the "U-joint"???

 

Prolly not safe to ride any longer.

 

 

R 1150 GS Adventure

 

25k

 

 

 

 

Whip, your noise really doesn’t sound like a U-Joint but not actually hearing or feeling it myself there is no way to be sure..

 

Most times a U-joint noise doesn’t just show up (only) while leaned over..

 

I guess to be sure have it looked at by a BMW tec or pull the boot back & look for metal grindings or if you can feel any prop shaft movement..

 

As a rule a grinding or a roughness noise while leaned over is a tire cupping or tire wear.. Maybe run your hands over the tires to see if you can feel a cupping or feathering just off center or near the edges.. (this could be difficult to determine on the GS tires as they are not that smooth of a tread to begin with)

 

Maybe try lowering the tire pressures to about 12psi then riding U-turns or figure 8s.. If the noise changes or goes away suspect tire wear as your low speed leaned over grinding noise..

 

That still doesn’t explain the clunk though.. Have you checked under the seat for something loose like the tool kit or something else under there?

 

Maybe hit the rear brake caliper with a rubber mallet to see if something is loose with that..

 

 

Twisty

 

[AndyS]

What tyres are you running?

what miles have they got on them.

Some brands can throw up REALLY dreadful vibes and sounds.

I have been running Michelin Pilot Road 2's. These were brilliant for about 1500 miles then the vibes and noises grew worse (almost intollerable). Things were excacerbated with the inclusion of a pillion.

Now, the miles on these tyres are up to about 5000, and oddly the noise and vibes seem to be reducing!

So, just a thought.

Andy

[AndyS]

That still doesn't explain the clunk though..

Twisty

 

I've missed something...Did Whip mention a clunk? If so, when does the clunk happen?

Andy

[T__]

Andy, it’s in the thread heading “Clunk is now a vibrating crunch”

 

He also had a thread on the clunk a couple of days ago

 

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=543277#Post543277

 

 

Twisty

 

[Whip]

I'm gonna spend a few hours on it today.

 

 

The slow speed turning stuff could be the tires. I'm gonna replace them. I'll play with the wheel in all directions, in gear and outa gear. I'll double check every bolt and nut I can find on the bike.

 

I'll ping the spokes for the perfect pitch.

 

I'll report back later.

 

I got a bad feeling. I ain't lucky with Beemers.

 

 

 

 

[tallman]

U no wot dey say,

"Lucky in love..."

 

 

I sure hope you've got some funky tires and a loose nut.

[David R]

Snip

 

Prolly not safe to ride any longer.

 

 

R 1150 GS Adventure

 

25k

 

 

 

 

Better find it soon.

 

Front or rear wheel bearing, then check the driveline.

 

You should also check all the brake rotors and calipers.

 

Grinding noise, Clutch in, Bike may fall down on its own at speed.

 

David

[Whip]

After several hours, tinkering and testing has yielded no answers.

 

I put new rubber on just to make sure.

 

I push, pulled, and tightened everything I could.

 

The rear wheel spins very nicely in neutral...when on the center stand. No extra noises just a little flutter sound like it had before when you first give it a turn. Sounds like fluid moving around.

 

No extra sounds while attempting to spin it when it is in gear. Just stops and kinda bounces back....again while on the center stand

 

The only thing I noticed was when I had the fast idle on at a slow speed(1 mph) I could recreate a similar clunk by pulling the clutch in and letting it out quickly causing a kinda drive line backlash. I think this is normal. But still interesting.

 

The spokes all had a nice ping to em when tapped with the plastic handle of a screw driver.

 

I am no longer afraid to ride it.

 

I just don't think it's serious.

 

 

Thanks for the help!!!

 

I'll keep ya posted.

[philbytx]

Ah! Sounds like a simple case of BMW owner paranoia to me

[AndyS]

Andy, its in the thread heading Clunk is now a vibrating crunch

 

Twisty

 

Thanks Twisty...I can't keep up with these moving (goal) posts ;-)

Andy

[Whip]

Ah! Sounds like a simple case of BMW owner paranoia to me

 

It's almost 2010....sooooo

 

"Oh! And please make sure they have parking for cage and trailer willya"

 

 

 

Does Deb let you sit on it while she drives the car and pulls the trailer??

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[philbytx]

Howdy Whipster

 

You betcha

 

I do love the wind in my hair and it's the only time she lets me NOT wear ATGATT

[Jerry Duke]

I would recommend pulling the driveshaft and check it out. Just to eliminate it and the u joints from the issue.

[ShovelStrokeEd]

Larry,

Have you drained the rear drive and transmission oil?

 

If not, do so, and when the oil gets into the container, swirl it with a pencil or some such and look for bright silver or gold swirls in it.

 

That would be an indicator of something metallic in your oil. Could be coming from a bearing in the drive train. What comes to mind is the input shaft on the transmission or the pinion bearing in the final drive. Either could cause both the clunk and the grinding noise.

[Whip]

Hey Ed

 

eddd and I just did the 24k. Everything looked good. The noise/clunk was happening before and after the fluid change.

 

 

[Huzband]

Out of respect, I'm waiting till Jan. 1 to respond to this thread.

[NonComp]

Out of respect, I'm waiting till Jan. 1 to respond to this thread.

???

[dhanson]

Sounds like the dreaded crown gear bearing about to fail to me. But I own a Triumph so what do it know. The reported bearing: SKF 6917 or FAG 61917

 

D.I.Y. backyard repair with pictures (my kind of stuff)!

 

LINKY

[dhanson]

Video link to rebuilding the FD. Too tight of preload is just as bad as too loose, think this video shows how to check with dial indicator.

 

FD rebuild VIDEO