hydraulic Clutch Question

[Kbro]

after a 20 year hiatus, I returned to motorcycling in 2004 by purchasing a low mileage 1989 K100 LT. after 12 months and 10,000 miles, I decided it was time to upgrade. Just 10 days ago, I bought an 02' 1150RT with less than 12,000 miles on the clock. I knew an "oilhead" would be a totally different feel than a "Brick," but after 700 miles, I'm still having a problem getting the "feel" of the clutch. Starting off on the K-Bike was smooth as silk. On the RT, I feel I'm going to stall the bike. When starting out, what RPM should I be targeting for disengaging the clutch? Am I doing something wrong, or am I just in the process of getting used to a new bike. Also, I found that the Speedometer registers about 5 MPH fast. Is this normal?

 

all suggestions and comments would be appreciated by this new member!

[belezar]

Speedo fast is normal. I can't tell you the RPMs, but I have trouble with starting out too. If you baby it you will burn the clutch and stall it occasionally. I stalled mine last week, although it is rare anymore. It's finicky and just takes practice. Don't mince around, be firm with it and go.

[Rob L]

These bikes do like rpm. They are easy to stall if you don't feed enough throttle in initially. You shouldn't lug the engines, they run best from 4000rpm up.

The speedo is 5 mph off from about 40 mph and up.

TADT

[Geoff2]

Had a simillar problem when I sold my R1100RT and bought a R1150GS. The RT had a cable clutch, the GS has hydraulic. I have gotten used to the hydraulic clutch now, but it still does not feel smooth at take off, persevere

[Jerry Duke]

When was the last time the fluid was changed or bled?

I bleed mine every spring along with all the other fluids, filters, spark plugs, and anything else that can be changed.

[TonyS]

What Jerry said; change the fluid in the clutch line and be sure all the air is bled out. I went from an 1100R with a cable clutch to the 1150RT and for several months just couldn't start nearly as easily as on the R. I would actually engage the fast idle to help with the starting and shifting; this iritated me greatly as I felt I'm a better rider than that. When I changed the clutch fluid (thanks Cory) it turns out there was a lot of air in the line. I now start very smoothly and have the clutch completely out about 1300 rpm with minimal slipping.

[Kbro]

When was the last time the fluid was changed or bled?

I bleed mine every spring along with all the other fluids, filters, spark plugs, and anything else that can be changed.

 

I just bought the bike from the dealer in Louisville, KY. the dealer said they performed the 12K service which I thought included new brake and clutch fluids. I asked the previous owner and he said he had not changed the brake and clutch fluid. I have a call into the dealer to verify what the service actually included.

 

assuming that it hasn't been done, how hard is it for a modest do-it-yourselfer? I did everything except the brake fluid on my K Bike.

 

thanks everyone for the comments. everyone had something to say that I can use.

 

Graham

[TonyS]

It's not hard to do it yourself. If you can find someone that has done it before it's less scary. I did mine when we flushed the entire brake circuit. A second set of hands to fill the reservoir is helpful.