Installing HID system to R1100

[twowheelsonly]

Hi,

 

I purchased a HID system for the headlight, the instructions for the kit indicate I need to interface the system to the exisitng wiring and to run a new power wire to a relay which supply's power to the ignitor. I understand how to wire the system but I am not sure how to remove hat body work I need to so I can install all the stuff, any tips would be much appreciated.

 

Thank you.

[Woodie]

Try the tech pages at ibmwr.org (search for "tupperware")

 

For a simple bulb change, I wouldn't think you'd need to take off much. If you need to hid additional wires, or get under the tank, then:

 

Remove the bottom panel, then both side panels, then remove the gas tank. Note: the quick-connects are likely to break and pour gas everywhere if they're still the original ones, so be prepared.

If you want more access, you can remove the dash, then remove the whole nose-cone, which contains the headlight unit.

 

It's not too bad, I've done it once or twice now, and will be doing it again this winter, so I can really get at the front wiring.

 

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

I removed both side panels, the bottom panel, dash and the headlamp cowl. The headlamp cowl has some semi hidden fasteners on its backside but they have very large washers that make it easier to find.

 

No need to remove gas tank. A straightened coat hanger can pass a wire easily down the right side of the gas tank back to the battery for the positive wire. Tie wrap it to the existing harness or frame.

[BevBeng]

I just installed a bi-xenon hid upgrade kit on my bike over the weekend. The actual hid lamp & relay installation was quite simple and took about 15 minutes. Removing and re-attaching the tupperware from both sides, upper fairing and crashbars from the RTP took a lot longer. There's a set of relay wires to hook up to the battery, from the ballast.

The final result was awesome! The little park clear bulb in the lamp looks so yellow next to the hids. I wish I had done it sooner.

 

Good luck!

[Woodie]

What do you think of the beam pattern? Is it better/worse than stock?

 

 

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

Re pattern: Mine looks much more filled in in the center and also on the right where the pattern climbs up. White versus off-white. Kind of like comparing the early halogens to incandescents back in the 70's. It can hit drivers in their eyes, off their mirror, in the right hand lane if things line up just wrong. A bit of a lean to the left, etc. There probably used to be some light there but it was so sissy I never noticed it. I try not to be near their rear bumper anyway but even more so now.

 

High beam is awesome.

[94aero]

Thinking og doing the same thing. What brands did you all use?

thanks

Ed

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

I did the vvme.com kit for H4-3 bi-zenon.

[BevBeng]

74c5 was spot on on her description of the beam. I went with 6k bulbs and along with a pair of PIAA 1400 foglights on the crashbars, there's a nice beam spread in front of you. I probably no longer need the lights above the mirrors.

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

His description. I like the photo 'cause I like to salute the flag, and other things.

I see how it can be misleading but, she's too hot to change the picture so I'll change my signature.

 

I also put driving beams under the oil cooler plenum slaved to the high beam. Hella micro DE fogs down on the fender are switched mostly for conspicuity but double up the low beam pattern of the HID.

[twowheelsonly]

Hi,

 

Well I learned what Tuperware is!!! sure a lot of screws to keep track of.. I am kind of mentally challenged anyway but sadly my fancy HID system seems to be a dud, I'm working with the mfgr. to resolve the issue, in the meantime I was thinking about getting the same unit Peter bought vvme.com kit for H4-3 bi-zeno but there are 4 models and I am not sure which one to order! They have it available in 35 watt 55 watt 24 volt (sure that one won't work) etc.. also I wanted to take the front fairing off but can't figure out what is left to remove, I got the dash cover off and even found the large phillip screws (4 of them) and removed the little screws around the fairing, it feels loose around the edges but doesn't want to come off, is the headlight part of the fairing or does it stay mounted to the bike when the fairing is removed..

 

Appreciate your input and Happy Thanks Giving to you all!

 

Stewart

[AndyS]

What do you think of the beam pattern? Is it better/worse than stock?

 

 

The beam pattern is much fuller.

This presents a big benefit for the rider because the pattern (or lack of it) fills in the gap between what was low beam and high beam.

Here's the bummer...It now blinds on coming traffic. So you can now see much more clearly where you want to go, but other road users are trying their hardest not to plow into you 'cos you have just lasered their retinas.

I still use my HID's but only when on deserted roads. If there is other traffic around i use some auxilliary lighting.

Andy

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

Stewart,

It looks as though they've made more kits in the last year. I used their base level HID H4-3 kit. 3500k temp. 12 Volts 35 W.

I don't see a need to go higher than 35W and you start losing lumens above 3500k. Also, you start looking like a tweener on a crotch rocket with the purple colors IMHO.

 

There are also motorcycle (single lamp) only kits out there but their prices seem to be similar. With this kit you get an extra bulb and ballast. But, you have to live with the extra 8 feet of wire.

 

The most important thing in this conversion is adjustment of the beam after you are done. As Andy S implied, it won't do you any good if a blinded driver runs over you. Unfortunately, it has to be done by trial and error...and an excuse me or two. If you go two up at any time, again re-adjust to bring the beam down. I just keep mine at the two up alignment that makes it a bit low on low beam but it still works great.

 

On the headlamp cowl, there are some studs coming out of the cowl that engage into the front frame of the bike. I don't recall the quantity maybe 3 or 4. Shine a light inside the back side and look for the nuts and the big washers. You might be able to see these on someones fiche...maybe max's bmw or A&S.

 

good luck.

[r77toy]

There are 3 nuts around the headlight that you need to remove, 10mm socket, you need a 6 yearold girl to reach them for you.

[twowheelsonly]

Hi,

 

I had ordered a 4300K which apparently is supposed to be the same as Infiniti used on their cars, I drove my soninlaws G37 and the headlights were wonderful so I thought I shoud match it since I liked the lights, the car was pretty awesome too, anyway OK I will order the same kit you got and hopefully this one works, I have a question about the big and I mean big rubber gasket/cover that covers the stock Bosch light how did you modify it to fit over the HID bulb?? I guess you have to cut off the 3 pin rubber plug so it would go over the HID bulb, also did the bulb seat easily where the old H4 bulb was located, seemed to me te one I had wasn't wanting to sit flush on all 3 points of the reflector..

 

Hey Happy turkey day to everyone!

 

Stewart your Beemerr Newbie

[twowheelsonly]

BIG QUESTION!!!!!

 

I spoke with Xetronics and they told me that they have very little failures of their ignitors or bulbs, especially both high and low, is there anything different on the BMW in regards to their wiring, grounds etc.. I was able to get the switching relay to activate and heard the relay click when I switched from High to low so I know it was seeing the headlight switch.. any ideas???

 

Thanks

Stewart

[ianboydsnr]

BIG QUESTION!!!!!

 

I spoke with Xetronics and they told me that they have very little failures of their ignitors or bulbs, especially both high and low, is there anything different on the BMW in regards to their wiring, grounds etc.. I was able to get the switching relay to activate and heard the relay click when I switched from High to low so I know it was seeing the headlight switch.. any ideas???

 

Thanks

Stewart

 

Have you got the correct ballast, on the H4-3 there needs to be a bridge rectifier in the circuit, otherwise you get a back feed to earth on the relay, switching it off

 

 

I fitted mine without removing the headlight, I glued the ballast to the bottom of the headlight using silicone.

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

From what I gather, all the HID systems are equally reliable...once past the infant mortality phase, you're good. The R1100 series makes it pretty simple.

 

No need to worry about the wiring as, I think, it's all already there with the stock H4 plug.