Alternator Cover Removal on the R11RT

[Schwie]

Let me be clear, I'm not much of a mechanic! With all the tupperware off I decided it would be great to do a valve adjustment. I understand there are different ways to turn the fly wheel (remove plugs and turn tire) but I decided to go the remove Alternator cover removal route and turn the bottom nut clockwise. The problem, no the frustration, is getting the plastic cover out of the way after the 4 bolts are removed. I'm not sure but I think one could remove the trottle side bracket off holding the mini fin tupperware off (looks like two hex heads). Once removed I think I can slide the cover over and out. Is that correct? While I'm there I may change the alternator belt but we'll see. That seems like another frustrating project to me.

[JonathanE]

Yup, you got it. Remove the shark fin. You should probably still pull the spark plugs. I've never tried to do the job with the plugs in there.

 

If the alternator belt looks worn, replace it while you're in there. It's much easier to do at home in your garage, then out on the side of the road someplace, especially if that "someplace" doesn't have a spare belt available.

[Unhofliche_Gesundheit]

hang in there - the first time by your self is the worst ( i myself gave up and took it to a mechanic to check the belt- that was before i discovered this awesome forum!).

 

yes remove the left (when sitting on bike) 'shark fin'. bit of twisting and pulling and the belt cover can then be removed downwards.

 

some folks cut the belt cover in half (horizontally) when they get it off so they dont have to remove the shark fin ever again.

[jimmyjr]

I have not tried it the correct way by removing the shark fin.

 

When I did it, I took loose the exhaust stack and moved both of them forward enough to get to cover out.

 

At least it gave ma a chance to take the nuts of of the exhaust studs and put some anti-sieze on them.

 

Jim

[NonComp]

Apparently, some folks cut the cover in half to facilitate removal/replacement later. It's not weather-tight anyway.

[Schwie]

Thanks Guys for the positive and helpful response. My confidence is wavering but I'll give it a shot. To me it appears removal from the trottle side (right while sitting on bike is best) but I'll look at the other shark fin bracket to determine if that is a better side to remove.

 

Cutting the cover in half make sense but do I assume I measure top to bottom and cut it in the middle?

 

Thanks again for everyone's great input.

[russell_bynum]

Thanks Guys for the positive and helpful response. My confidence is wavering but I'll give it a shot. To me it appears removal from the trottle side (right while sitting on bike is best) but I'll look at the other shark fin bracket to determine if that is a better side to remove.

 

Cutting the cover in half make sense but do I assume I measure top to bottom and cut it in the middle?

 

Thanks again for everyone's great input.

 

Removing the shark fin is no big deal...two bolts and it comes right off. I always removed the left side, but I don't think there's any real reason for that...just "How I've always done it."

 

If you're going to cut the cover in half (I personally don't like that option because it's not that hard to remove the shark fin...but lots of people do it.), just cut it more or less in the middle. It doesn't have to be precise.

 

 

[Schwie]

 

Thanks Russell, I appreciate your input.

[Edgar]

Because of the bend in the exhaust pipes on the right side of the bike (as you are sitting on it in a riding position) it is nearly impossible to remove the cover even after removing the fin. The left side is so easy even Russell can do it.

[Jerry Duke]

WOW! That seems a lot harder than just removing the cam sprocket covers and find TDC using the rear wheel in 6th.

If you want instructions, including pictures in a WORD document, just let me know.

jerry.duke@gmail.com

[David R]

I may be crude, but I don't use timing marks, I just hold a screwdriver in the spark plug hole and turn the rear wheel with my foot. When the piston is all the way to the top and the valves are closed (loose), I'm there.

 

David

[russell_bynum]

The left side is so easy even Russell can do it.

 

[russell_bynum]

I may be crude, but I don't use timing marks, I just hold a screwdriver in the spark plug hole and turn the rear wheel with my foot. When the piston is all the way to the top and the valves are closed (loose), I'm there.

 

David

 

I use a chopstick because I'm nervous about scratching something in there but otherwise, that's what I do.

 

If you're just adjusting the valves, there's really no reason to fret about making it perfect...there's a pretty wide range that's acceptable and you can easily find it the way you described. If you want...you can then verify it by looking at the arrow on the cam chain (it should point out...parallel to the ground).

[Juan_in_a_million]

I may be crude, but I don't use timing marks, I just hold a screwdriver in the spark plug hole and turn the rear wheel with my foot. When the piston is all the way to the top and the valves are closed (loose), I'm there.

 

David

 

I use a chopstick because I'm nervous about scratching something in there but otherwise, that's what I do.

 

If you're just adjusting the valves, there's really no reason to fret about making it perfect...there's a pretty wide range that's acceptable and you can easily find it the way you described. If you want...you can then verify it by looking at the arrow on the cam chain (it should point out...parallel to the ground).

 

+1. Finding the TDS timiing mark to adjust the valves is not necessary. Once you feel the piston is at the end of its run, the cam still has 180 degrees to turn before it actuates the valves again.

Also, some folks cut a hole in the cover just where the BMW emblem is. That allows you to turn the pulley with a 16 mm socket. Once you're done, you can cover the hole with a rubber plug.

 

Cheers

[Schwie]

Juan, I've heard of the making of a hole in the cover and then adding a plug but I can't find that reference. I would be reluctant to do it unless I have a plug in hand. Not sure were I can find that part.

[David R]

We used to set them in a slant 6 with the engine running. It beat the crap out of the feeler gauges, but it worked and you were sure they were right. (this was flat rate work) I have done it with the /6. I do not recommend this....

 

David

[Juan_in_a_million]

Juan, I've heard of the making of a hole in the cover and then adding a plug but I can't find that reference. I would be reluctant to do it unless I have a plug in hand. Not sure were I can find that part.

 

Here it is:

 

http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/pulleycover_mod/index.shtml

 

Cheers