Where to get those fancy single feeler gauges I see in the BMW demo videos

[DonW]

Howdy- I have struggled with using two "fan" type feeler gauge sets to adjust my valves. I want what the pros use- single (or MUCH better- DOUBLE) feeler gauges. Any one know where to buy them??

 

Thanks,

 

Don

[thencamebronson]

Those are Wurth feeler guages, A&S BMW sells them on their website.

[Selden]

I bought 2 sets, removed only the blades that I would be using, and created a working set. I just remove the ones I'll be using while adjusting the valves. However, if looking for something better, you might also consider stepped go/no-go gauges.

[Jeepster]

I bought my Wurth gauges here LINK

Quick, painless service. No affiliation etc. Just a satisfied customer.

[russell_bynum]

I bought 2 sets, removed only the blades that I would be using, and created a working set. I just remove the ones I'll be using while adjusting the valves.

 

+1

 

I bought two sets of the cheap ones, pulled out the pair for the intake and the pair for the exhaust, and riveted each pair together.

 

 

[nrp]

If you do the conversion and use inch feeler gauges, they only cost about 1/2 or even 1/3 as much for the same gauges.

 

This goes for any metric fasteners too. I would have thought this disparity would be pretty much gone by now. Ah metrification!

[russell_bynum]

If you do the conversion and use inch feeler gauges, they only cost about 1/2 or even 1/3 as much for the same gauges.

 

FWIW, The cheap gauges that I got at the local auto parts store are marked in both systems.

[Wooster]

I got mine at Bob's BMW (mega dealer in Maryland, I think).

 

Wooster

 

Confusion says "Cat who eats cheese has baited breath"

[Devo220]

You have to be careful with the cheap feeler guages, I have bought them before and they didn't measure what was marked on them. It varied quite alot. I take a 1" micrometer with me to verify sizes before I buy.

[smiller]

If you do the conversion and use inch feeler gauges, they only cost about 1/2 or even 1/3 as much for the same gauges.

FWIW, The cheap gauges that I got at the local auto parts store are marked in both systems.

Yeah, I don't think I've ever even seen a set that didn't have markings in both English and Metric, including a set bought over 30 years ago.

[russell_bynum]

You have to be careful with the cheap feeler guages, I have bought them before and they didn't measure what was marked on them. It varied quite alot. I take a 1" micrometer with me to verify sizes before I buy.

 

How much variation have you found?

[Devo220]

As much as the next size guage up and down. You get what you pay for.

[russell_bynum]

As much as the next size guage up and down. You get what you pay for.

 

Sure...I definitely will not argue that..but does that much variation even matter when you're setting oilhead valves?

 

My experience has been that as long as they're not too tight, the important thing is to get everything consistent.

[Peter Parts]

I agree with Russell B.

 

But I must be living in a different world. For me, the first move is to measure current lash - wouldn't think of looking at valves without doing so. Then you set them. So you need a whole set, even if the go-nogo might be helpful at the end point.

 

Which, in turn, means setting lash pretty carefully, being able to remember where you set them, measuring pretty carefully before doing the next adjustment, and not least, being able to draw proper inferences about your engine's health from the data for each valve.

 

BTW, with my effort to mild-down my over-sporty S, I use Lentini lash, about 2-3 thou over. No, doesn't oblige me to wear hearing protectors because of the racket or turns the valve stems into mushroom shapes (at least not in 30,000 miles with the extra lash).

 

What is general forum opinion on using a spacer to fill the lash-gap on one valve while setting it's twinned valve? I am too clumbsy to do it, but wonder if others favor doing it that way?

[smiller]

My experience has been that as long as they're not too tight, the important thing is to get everything consistent.

Well if they're too loose then performance can be impacted, but a few thou one way or the other... nah. As you say it's consistency that matters, although if you set things like TB balance after the valve adjustment then even that factor isn't all it's cracked up to be. Look at any shim-adjusted bike, usually anything within a fairly wide window is OK (.004" on the K bikes.) I'm not sure where the legend that oilheads have to be within .0005" came from but it just never seems to die.

 

 

What is general forum opinion on using a spacer to fill the lash-gap on one valve while setting it's twinned valve? I am too clumbsy to do it, but wonder if others favor doing it that way?

This heretic believes that it doesn't matter at all.

[Stan Walker]

+1 on just using a single feeler gauge at a time.

 

I don't even own the fancy handled tools, just el-cheapo feeler set from Sears with the two required sizes removed.

 

I do apply a little back pressure on the rocker being adjusted to insure it's all the way open using the hex tool in the screw head.

 

Stan

[DonW]

For anyone else with the "cheap airhead" heritage I possess, I bought yesterday a feeler gauge set at Sears that includes 2 of each of the sizes we need for our valves (one steel and one brass). It even has a very easy to undo thumbscrew making it easy to remove the units you want. $6.99 + tax

 

Sears #40811

[Stan Walker]

2 of each of the sizes we need for our valves (one steel and one brass).

 

That's the one! I put the brass gauges in my traveling tool kit, and use the steel at home.

 

Stan

[DonW]

Oh, one more thing. Checked the gauges with my very good micrometer and they are DEAD on. Within .0001 or so.