Front brake special nipple for bleeding

[Steve Kolenda]

Need some help, I'm having a senior moment and can't remember or find information on how to install and use the special bleed nipple for the right hand caliper on my 2000 R1100RT. Thanks in advance.

 

Steve

[ESokoloff]

It's very much the same as the clutch bleeder on a hydraulic clutch.

 

Remove the slotted grub screw from the check valve & insert the proper bleed screw or SPEED BLEEDER to the check valve.

You may have to grind/file off the point a bit to get it to start or just use a heat gun (sparingly) to soften up the locktite & remove the check valve assembly. Replace with the proper bleed screw or SB.

 

This check valve is for ease of factory prep & a hindrance to the following mechanic(s).

[Steve Kolenda]

"heat gun (sparingly) to soften up the locktite & remove the check valve assembly."

 

I do not recall having to remove the check valve assembly the last time.

[ESokoloff]

It's an optional "one time only" process for ease of subsequent services.

 

Or just remove the slotted grub screw & install a standard (properly sized) bleed screw or Speed Bleeder.

 

[ESokoloff]

It's an optional "one time only" process for ease of subsequent services.

 

Or just remove the slotted grub screw & install a standard (properly sized) bleed screw or Speed Bleeder.

 

 

Sorry, it's an allen not slotted screw.

Check here for an example of a R1150RT clutch bleed.

[Steve Kolenda]

Eric,

 

Thanks for taking the time to reply but I am looking for information on how to use the special BMW bleeder. How far is it suppose to thread in, should I have fluid coming out while I am threading it in? The bleeder does not just thread in, it appears that I have to overcome the check valve before the threads start and it does not seem to want to thread in more than a couple of threads.

[ESokoloff]

Well if you remove the check valve (remember the factory installs these for their convenience, not yours), you will not have to fight it (did you read the entire contents of the provided link? Some good info there).

 

However if you elect to keep it it sounds like you need to remove a slight amount of the pointy tip of the screw.

I cant tell you how much other then the right amount

It will be a trial & error process & remember that you can always take more off but you cant put any back on.

The threads should start before the ball is depressed but the ball must be fully depressed before the screw bottoms out.

As the check valve is about the lowest point in the system I would expect some fluid loss during this process.