Limecreek Posted September 24, 2009 Share Posted September 24, 2009 I have a set of Wilbers on the way for my '08KGT. Has anyone changed the front strut? If so, any warnings, advice, pictures or tips you'd like to offer? Link to comment
Semper_Fi Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 A little invasive but if interested and according to the rep rom you need to: Remove the front and rear seat Remove the complete engine spoiler Remove the left and right side panel Install engine lifter Disengage ZFE control unit Remove the air intake pipe Remove nut from leading link Disengage bracket Disconnect plug and cables Lift the wheel up until you touch the oil cooler Push link down until strut is free Repeat in reverse to assemble and as always you will need some special tools Link to comment
Limecreek Posted September 30, 2009 Author Share Posted September 30, 2009 Thank you. I do have the ROM...just hoping someone else blazed this trail and can offer some advice. I am building a engine stand to support the bike and will document the front strut replacement and post it right here. Willers are 10 days away. I need to get my butt in gear on engine stand. Link to comment
Semper_Fi Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 You're welcome - i just posted just the top level views of the process there is a lot more to it Good luck Link to comment
Limecreek Posted October 15, 2009 Author Share Posted October 15, 2009 I just finished installing a new rear Wilber strut in my K12GT. Removing the rear ESA shock was a royal pain in the hind quarters. I worked on it for 2.5 hours and still have some assembly left over for tomorrow evening. All this time I was worried about swapping out the front strut and just assumed the rear would be the easy part. Man, was I wrong. I'll have a write up with pics out next week. Link to comment
eddd Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 Greg, if you need a hand, just send a me a PM. Link to comment
smiller Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 I'll have a write up with pics out next week. Waiting with bated breath... although now I'm not so sure I want to know... Link to comment
Limecreek Posted October 16, 2009 Author Share Posted October 16, 2009 Thanks Ed. Front shock goes on tomorrow night. I'll let you know if I need help. Seth, honestly, if I had to do it all over again I would have taken a plasma cutter to the ESA shock and thrown it in the trash. To get to the ESA rear, I had to remove the entire rear subframe, wiring harness, pry back the oil tank and so on. Part 1 Gather your tools; Plasma cutter. Link to comment
smiller Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 Why do I get the feeling that you're going to be stretching those rebuild intervals a bit... Link to comment
Whip Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 Hey Brother Lime Ya know it will be worth it to get rid of that ESA s$#t!! Link to comment
Semper_Fi Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 ...... To get to the ESA rear, I had to remove the entire rear subframe, wiring harness, pry back the oil tank and so on. Link to comment
eddd Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 ...Seth, honestly, if I had to do it all over again I would have taken a plasma cutter to the ESA shock and thrown it in the trash. To get to the ESA rear, I had to remove the entire rear subframe, wiring harness, pry back the oil tank and so on. Part 1 Gather your tools; Plasma cutter. Yikes! I like my bike more every time I read something like this. Link to comment
Limecreek Posted October 16, 2009 Author Share Posted October 16, 2009 I like my bike more every time I read something like this. The ESA strut, because of its size can only be removed from above. The Wilbers strut will be much easier to remove; it is removed from below--about a 30 minute job. Whip, I have to admit this version of the ESA is better than the ESA on my RT, but it still comes up short in the performance department. Link to comment
Limecreek Posted October 16, 2009 Author Share Posted October 16, 2009 ESA Rear Strut Wilbers Rear Strut Engine Fixture (I had to design and build this--it holds the bike up when replacing the front strut.) Assembly Link to comment
Jim VonBaden Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 Not having done it, so I could be way off, but wouldn't it be easier to remove the FD and swing arm to replace the ESA rear strut? Jim Link to comment
Limecreek Posted October 16, 2009 Author Share Posted October 16, 2009 Not having done it, so I could be way off, but wouldn't it be easier to remove the FD and swing arm to replace the ESA rear strut? Jim Good suggestion Jim. Unfortunately the oil tank is still in the way of pulling the strut out the bottom. The subframe has to move back out of the way to provide enough clearance to move the tank back. I'll post a picture with the instructions. Link to comment
Jim VonBaden Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 Not having done it, so I could be way off, but wouldn't it be easier to remove the FD and swing arm to replace the ESA rear strut? Jim Good suggestion Jim. Unfortunately the oil tank is still in the way of pulling the strut out the bottom. The subframe has to move back out of the way to provide enough clearance to move the tank back. I'll post a picture with the instructions. Looking at the pic, the oil tank is directly behind the strut, correct? If the swing arm is removed, what is keeping the strut from dropping straight down? Not argueing at all, just trying to get it in my head. Probably 20 seconds of crawling under it would reveal my ignorance. Jim Link to comment
markgoodrich Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 ESA Rear Strut Wilbers Rear Strut Engine Fixture (I had to design and build this--it holds the bike up when replacing the front strut.) Assembly Man, this makes me sick. I cannot BELIEVE you didn't get the engine support powder coated!!! And no roundel on it? Gah. Link to comment
Limecreek Posted October 17, 2009 Author Share Posted October 17, 2009 Good question. The top of the oil tank has two tabs, one on either side. The tabs slide into metal slots on either side of the sub frame, so there is not a way to move the oil tank back with without the subframe moving with it--the cross member butts up against the back of the oil tank. The oil tank is obstructing the strut. It is right up against the strut and prevents it from moving out of the mount. Oil Tank Front (note the tabs) Oil Tank Rear (note the cross member of the subframe) Link to comment
Limecreek Posted October 17, 2009 Author Share Posted October 17, 2009 It is only a prototype. The production version will be plated. Link to comment
smiller Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 Greg, regarding the engine fixture stand... when I need to remove the front wheel I place a 2x6 piece of wood under the exhaust pipes and use a small floor jack. The result is pretty stable and doesn't seem to place any undue stress on the exhaust system since it doesn't take that much force to lift the front end of the bike. Since all of the operations involved with removing the front strut involve lifting parts of the front suspension (even further reducing the weight on the front of the bike), is the engine stand mandatory or could the above technique work as well? Link to comment
Limecreek Posted October 17, 2009 Author Share Posted October 17, 2009 I don't know Seth. You are probably asking the wrong guy. I have a tendancy to play it safe; at least when it comes down to this kind of stuff. I have the entire weight of the bike sitting on the fixture. It is flat and stable. As I was tugging and pulling on the lower link tonight, I didn't have to worry about the bike falling over or the exhast giving way. As a local Texan, this is something you need not worry about--just come borrow mine. Link to comment
Semper_Fi Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 It is only a prototype. The production version will be plated. Sweet - did you do your own welding or did you have someone else do it. Great pictures! Link to comment
smiller Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 As a local Texan, this is something you need not worry about--just come borrow mine. I see some interesting tech days in the future... Link to comment
Limecreek Posted October 17, 2009 Author Share Posted October 17, 2009 I built a model and then created a set of plans based on the model. After that, Russ, my daughter's hubby, welded it up for me for the cost of a few beers and a Craftsman can opener. BMW sells their version of the engine fixture for $350. One thing I couldn't make or source was this... This is a must have cut out socket, used to remove and install the quick release axle. BMW is the only source and it cost me $140. Link to comment
smiller Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 This is a must have cut out socket, used to remove and install the quick release axle. BMW is the only source and it cost me $140. Boy it just keeps getting better and better. BTW where is this used? I can't seem to find it in the front or rear strut R&R procedure in the RepROM... Link to comment
Limecreek Posted October 18, 2009 Author Share Posted October 18, 2009 It is the tool used to remove and install the collared nut from the quick release axle---lower link. It is a two man job when you install it. One man to torque to 145Nm and the other to hold the 12mm Hex key and keep the axle from spinning. So, when are you going to be ready to pull your ESA? 30mm Link to comment
smiller Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 So, when are you going to be ready to pull your ESA? Uhhh... after reading this thread the date just got moved back a bit... Link to comment
Limecreek Posted October 18, 2009 Author Share Posted October 18, 2009 Compared to the RT, extracting the ESA from a GT is at least 3X as difficult in terms of tools, disassembly and time. But....it was worth it. Link to comment
smiller Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 But....it was worth it. Well we're waiting to hear that part of the story once you get a few miles on it..! Link to comment
Semper_Fi Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 So it looks like the entry fee to replace your shocks is $500 in speacial unobtanium tools made by BMW, and the does nto count the shocks I am glad i like my ESA - this may be somethig the dealer does, maybe not. Excellent thread! Link to comment
Limecreek Posted October 18, 2009 Author Share Posted October 18, 2009 Current list price for a set of ESA struts is $4,415. Chicago BMW will sell a set for $3,679. Nuts, eh? My guess for shop time to replace the ESA is 4 hours, maybe more? So, an owner of a K12GT that likes the ESA and decides to replace them when they wear out is confronted with a minimum cost of $4K. I do know of one individual that had his ESA rebuilt and of course you can have Works Performance take the BMW ESA pieces and build a set of Works ESA. So there are lower cost alternatives out there. Link to comment
smiller Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 Current list price for a set of ESA struts is $4,415. Chicago BMW will sell a set for $3,679. Nuts, eh? You can say that again. A normal wear item for which BMW provides no (reasonable) service option. Hey Greg, I'm following the procedure through and I can see where the rear subframe and oil tank must be removed and the shock drawn out from above, but I'm not seeing why you have to remove the rear quick release axle (the RepROM doesn't mention this either.) I'm sure you didn't do it just for fun so I assume there's a reason, wondering what hung you up there and why it had to come out? Link to comment
Limecreek Posted October 18, 2009 Author Share Posted October 18, 2009 Ah...I am referring to the front strut quick release axle and collared nut, not the rear. Link to comment
smiller Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 Gotcha, I see it now. So how difficult did the front strut R/R end up being, looks pretty hairy. Did the whole front fairing have to come off for access? I will say one thing... if you need to get those shocks rebuilt every 30k miles or so then by comparison the much-feared valve check won't even register on your PITA meter... Link to comment
Limecreek Posted October 18, 2009 Author Share Posted October 18, 2009 won't even register on your PITA meter... Checking the valves is going to be a cake walk. Both fairings had to come off, but I am telling you the front was much easier than getting the rear ESA out. I checked for proper sag last night and front and rear were spot on. I took a about a 150 mile ride today and love the way the bike feels. Link to comment
Firefight911 Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 I think I just vomited. Yep, I did. Link to comment
Polo Posted October 19, 2009 Share Posted October 19, 2009 Engine Fixture (I had to design and build this--it holds the bike up when replacing the front strut.) Man, this makes me sick. I cannot BELIEVE you didn't get the engine support powder coated!!! And no roundel on it? Gah. Yep, Greg is definitely getting slopy. I am so embarassed! Just look at the welding! he didn't grind it down, oh, the horror! Link to comment
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