ESA Pro's and Con's

[VinnyR11]

Just took my new R1200RT (blue) out for our first ride. What a fantastic bike. I had owned one of the first R1100RT's imported to the US, so the difference is dramatic.

 

I especially like the ESA and the overall suspension set up. The differences between settings are very noticeable, particularly on pre-load, and you can really dial in a good set up. I had Ohlins on my R11, but for my riding style with lots of one up, two up, and fully loaded riding mixed in, the ESA works as advertised. I was too lazy to reset pre-load and rebound on the R11 for shorter rides, so I was often riding with a somewhat compromised setting. I think it's a worthy option if you often vary your loads.

 

The downside? If you trust the ESA settings, I learned that my body type is "one person plus baggage."

[jaytee]

I tried the ESA on the K1300S at a demo day here in SoCal. While I liked the push-button convienence, I question whether those on the more agressive end of riding would find the sport setting truly sporty. I know I didn't.

 

JT

[marcopolo]

I enjoyed the convenience of ESA on my '06 RT. A significant downside is the cost of replacement ESA struts (if you ever reach that point). I just replaced mine with Ohlins which were significantly cheaper. Here in Canada, just the two struts (no labour) would have been $4,335 CDN (incl tax). Ohlins (bought at the MOA Rally in TN) were $1950 CDN, incl tax, installation and setup. Replacement's a long way off for you. Just ride and enjoy.

[Jack90210]

I'd rather have Ohlins or Wilburs than the ESA that I have on my '06 RT. Most noticeably for me, high speed compression damping is too harsh. (I've got Wilburs on my '95 GS.)

[jakfrost]

I enjoyed the convenience of ESA on my '06 RT. A significant downside is the cost of replacement ESA struts (if you ever reach that point). I just replaced mine with Ohlins which were significantly cheaper. Here in Canada, just the two struts (no labour) would have been $4,335 CDN (incl tax). Ohlins (bought at the MOA Rally in TN) were $1950 CDN, incl tax, installation and setup. Replacement's a long way off for you. Just ride and enjoy.

 

Hey Mark, how did you come to require new ESA struts on your RT?? Did you wear the original ones out? If so, what was the mileage so I can do some financial planning...!

 

This wasn't something I had thought to anticipate! And I thought the windshield struts were expensive at $225.00 for the OEM's.

 

$4335.00!! YIPES!!!!!

 

Jim

[rglassma]

Keep in mind, Works Performance also supports ESA. They can be had for about 1600 plus shipping, etc. So, there is an alternative to the shockingly expensive OEM replacement.

 

I have 35K on mine and they seem fine.

[trek]

I have ESA on my 06 RT and frankly I do not believe it works, no matter what setting it is on there is no difference in ride feel. Is there something that needs checking?

[smiller]

This wasn't something I had thought to anticipate!

BMW depends on that, or they wouldn't sell many ESA-equipped bikes...

[Mike05]

I have ESA on my 06 RT and frankly I do not believe it works, no matter what setting it is on there is no difference in ride feel. Is there something that needs checking?

 

Sounds like it. Start this way: With the bike running in neutral @ idle, thumb the ESA switch until 1 helmet, 1 helmet/saddlebag or 2 helmets appear in the window. Sitting lightly on the bike switch to another setting. The window display will begin blinking, indicating the adjustment is taking place. You should feel it happening.

 

 

 

[Skipper]

I too have tried to feel the difference switching the ESA to the different settings on my 2006 R1200RT and I am having trouble distiguishing the difference. I just thought it was me! (And maybe it still is!) I guess it requires a controlled ride over the same speed bumps using the different settings to see if it is noticeable. Anybody else have a method of checking to see if it is really switching as it should?

[Grumpy-ol-Fart]

I have an '08 (which I think is really an '07 that BMW re-badged to stiff me out of a free GPS...but that is another story) with ESA. I can tell you where you can REALLY tell if it's working or not. We have quite a few stretches of concrete highway around the state. Find one of these and cycle through the damping adjustments while on the fly, and the difference is remarkable. Once you're convinced that damping really works; pull over and try the same thing with the pre-load adjustments. They make an equally noticable difference. It impressed me much more than putting the bike on the center stand and cycling things just to see the swingarm move...

[motoguy128]

I too have tried to feel the difference switching the ESA to the different settings on my 2006 R1200RT and I am having trouble distiguishing the difference. I just thought it was me! (And maybe it still is!) I guess it requires a controlled ride over the same speed bumps using the different settings to see if it is noticeable. Anybody else have a method of checking to see if it is really switching as it should?

 

The preload settings have a noticeable difference in ride height.... and a preload change should.

 

The most noticeable change in dampening is the rebound. If you have smooth roads with few dips or bumps, you might not notice a difference. Where I live, it's very, VERY noticeable. The concrete is raised in places, pot holes and lots of dips.

 

I normally reserve "comfort" for freeway crusing, use "normal" most of the time and only use sport of smooth, twisty roads when I'm riding more aggressively. I might also use sport in heavy stop and go traffic for more precise control when making sharp manuevers and braking hard.

 

 

Find a speed bump or a dip in a road, and drive over it in each setting at speed. you should feel a difference.

[marcopolo]

I enjoyed the convenience of ESA on my '06 RT. A significant downside is the cost of replacement ESA struts (if you ever reach that point). I just replaced mine with Ohlins which were significantly cheaper. Here in Canada, just the two struts (no labour) would have been $4,335 CDN (incl tax). Ohlins (bought at the MOA Rally in TN) were $1950 CDN, incl tax, installation and setup. Replacement's a long way off for you. Just ride and enjoy.

 

Hey Mark, how did you come to require new ESA struts on your RT?? Did you wear the original ones out? If so, what was the mileage so I can do some financial planning...!

 

This wasn't something I had thought to anticipate! And I thought the windshield struts were expensive at $225.00 for the OEM's.

 

$4335.00!! YIPES!!!!!

 

Jim

 

Hi Jim. My bike had 80,000 kms at the time of the rally. I was thinking about new shocks for next year, but on the way down to Tennessee, I thought they felt a bit "mushy" (that's a technical term). I was two-up with a full load. I only decided to do it when I was wondering around the rally site (looking for riding shorts) and came across the Ohlins tent. It then was a matter of convenience. Ohlins USA was teamed up with one of their retailers (from the Bay area). The Ohlins guys weighed us, discussed riding style etc. then selected the most appropriate spring. They then assembled the strut and did the initial settings. The struts were then installed by MaxMoto (vendor of record) and then back to the Ohlins guys for final set-up with me on/off the bike etc. It was a well run operation. Total cost was $1720 USD.

 

I've called the price of the BMW struts outrageous and nobody's disputed that so far.

[VinnyR11]

I too have tried to feel the difference switching the ESA to the different settings on my 2006 R1200RT and I am having trouble distiguishing the difference. I just thought it was me! (And maybe it still is!) I guess it requires a controlled ride over the same speed bumps using the different settings to see if it is noticeable. Anybody else have a method of checking to see if it is really switching as it should?

 

As others have said, it's really tough to tell any difference on fairly smooth roads, or roads with just small bumps. The ESA changes are very noticeable on very bumpy strips.

 

I had my pre-load set on the lowest setting (one helmet) and everything felt totally fine for my entire ride. I then hit a stretch where there were heaves on the expansion strips, and the bike was flat out "not good". I pulled over, upped the pre-load to one plus baggage and it was a new bike. The ride improved 100%. That was the perfect setting for me to see the difference. A road with repetitive bumps that continued for a long time. I now keep my pre-load on that setting.

 

I also think it's best to look at the pre-loads as low-mid-high, instead of "one person - 1 plus luggage - 2 people". Just because you have the load indicated, doesn't necessarily mean it's the correct setting for you.

 

Again, pre-load changes are almost always easier to perceive than rebound. I notice rebound most when riding fairly aggressively on a bumpy turn, but it's really tough to tell on many normal roads.

 

If you don't change loads dramatically, or ride two up fairly often, then the ESA can be superfluous. You can just buy great shocks and set and forget. But, I really like the adaptability ESA gives me, because I change ride loads often.

[Mister Tee]

I feel a significant difference between the three ESA settings on my 08 RT. I normally cruise around in "normal", which I consider the confort setting, and put it in "sport" for aggressive twisty riding. I never use "comfort" except on stretches of really bad, potholed roads.

 

I wouldn't have paid extra for ESA when I got my bike (the only bikes that were available all had the major upgrade package) but I've come to like it.

[JJZorro]

Over the past 53K km the ESA settings seemed to work fine, for the most part. Comfort worked well for long boring slab riding and really rough slow speed paved/unpaved roads. Normal is what I used most of the time and Sport seemed to work great when the road got twisty or I decided to get a bit aggressive. I noticed lately that the ride is getting more and more harsh, especially over small sharp bumps. Rough pavement on Sport setting is unbearable.

After lots of discussions with some local suspension guys and reading various posts here and elsewhere, I decided to bite the bullet and order a pair of after market shocks. No not Ohlin's, but Elka. Lots of reasons, including price, and the fact that the Ohlin's only make 1 front shock for the RT and the only thing they change for each individual customer is the spring, and the only adjustment other than preload is rebound. Now I really don't know how much you need high/low compression dampening adjustments, but......

Anyway, Ohlin's, made in Sweden, shipped to the USA, warehoused and a spring is selected for the weight you provide. Price $1950 ca. ESA replacements, $4k ca+. Elka, made in Canada, $1800 ca, built (spring and valving)for me and my riding style. We'll see how it goes.

 

Jeff

[Smoky]

I just looked at the Elka site, nice to have a Canadian option.

 

I had Wilbers on my 1100RT, and I really like them.

 

The preload has quit working on my ESA, and the handling is getting a little mushy when two up.

 

I have 44,000 km. on my bike.

[John in VA]

BMW shocks stink straight off the showroom floor, and ESA can't hide their poor damping. At 1500 miles I pulled the plug on my ESA and got Ohlins without hesitation. They make the bike ride and handle so much better over any surface with any load than stock shocks.

[rglassma]

How does going from ESA shocks to non-esa shocks affect diagnostics and error reporting on the bike? Does it show up any warning, do you constantly have to have the error log cleared? Any adverse reactions?

[Limecreek]

Keep in mind, Works Performance also supports ESA. They can be had for about 1600 plus shipping, etc. So, there is an alternative to the shockingly expensive OEM replacement.

 

I have 35K on mine and they seem fine.

 

Here is the risk with going with Works. What are you going to do if one of the BMW components fails on your new Works suspension? Works will not fix the BMW parts and BMW will not sell anyting but a complete unit.

 

 

[OmahaAl]

BMW shocks stink straight off the showroom floor, and ESA can't hide their poor damping. At 1500 miles I pulled the plug on my ESA and got Ohlins without hesitation. They make the bike ride and handle so much better over any surface with any load than stock shocks.

 

Similar to you, I pulled the plug on my ESA shocks (I did mine at 5,000 miles), except I went with Wilbers instead of Ohlins. (Anyone want to buy a set of 08 ESA shocks ). The dampening was never right. It was either over damped or under damped depending on the ESA setting. The difference in handling, ride comfort, etc. of the Wilbers over the ESA shocks is pretty incredible. I'm guessing you had a similar experience with your Ohlins.

 

How does going from ESA shocks to non-esa shocks affect diagnostics and error reporting on the bike? Does it show up any warning, do you constantly have to have the error log cleared? Any adverse reactions?

 

When I hook up my GS911, there's a single communication fault for the front shock and one for the back shock (not a stream of errors). No indication on the dash. The two faults are always in the controller memory. There's no need to constantly clear them.

[Motodan]

I have had both ESA and the manual BMW shock version of the R1200RT...in fact I've sold them at a dealership. If you like the extra button and only need three settings for all your riding [weighs], go the $800.00 extra with ESA. However, if you really want to "dial in" your rear suspension go non-ESA. If you don't like the BMW standard equipment manually adjusted shock and all the different settings you can achieve with it, you'll then have $800.00 extra to spend on a Wilber or whatever. To me, ESA is just another BMW higher tech answer to a question that was never asked. Falls into the EWS and Canbus items area for me.

 

[smiller]

Here is the risk with going with Works. What are you going to do if one of the BMW components fails on your new Works suspension? Works will not fix the BMW parts and BMW will not sell anyting but a complete unit.

I would buy the parts from you.

 

Seriously, I figure that in the event of something like that happening you could probably find someone with a set of worn-out (and otherwise worthless) ESA shocks that they would be willing to part with cheaply. After all I think there will be a lot of these on the market before too long...

[valvman]

BMW ESA shocks vs good shocks....

The ESA shocks were already showing there age at only 22,000 miles

so I installed a set of Hyperpro's ( a 367 in front and 469 w/ HPA

in the rear ). Love 'em.... feels like a whole new bike.At modest speeds they feel somewhere between the 'normal' and the 'sport' settings but w/ much better control. When you get into the fun speed range, even on fairly irregular roads, the shocks still feel very smooth but control remains very tight. Would I go back to BMW esa shocks? ...NO CHANCE.

 

Dave Bogue

'08 R1200rt

[Paul In Australia]

Hi

So when you change to an aftermarket brand shock, what do you do with the ESA connections etc. I would like the option maybe of re installing the ESA shocks if I sell the bike. Has anyone got photos or a procedure for this tidy up?

 

best regards

PCH

[OmahaAl]

Hi

So when you change to an aftermarket brand shock, what do you do with the ESA connections etc. I would like the option maybe of re installing the ESA shocks if I sell the bike. Has anyone got photos or a procedure for this tidy up?

 

best regards

PCH

 

Covered the end of the connector with Scotch 33+ electrical tape (pretty good moisture resistance) and used friction tape to attach the connector out of the way on the frame.

[Limecreek]

Seriously, I figure that in the event of something like that happening you could probably find someone with a set of worn-out (and otherwise worthless) ESA shocks that they would be willing to part with cheaply. After all I think there will be a lot of these on the market before too long...

 

True, but what a PITA it would be to track parts down, shipping, etc. all in the pursuit of push button convenience. I'd rather reach down and turn up the preload.