Jump to content

Stalling = electrical problem?


Recommended Posts

I've experienced this problem about 3 times recently on my '96 1100 roadster. It is intermittent. The symptoms are that the bike will stall suddenly about 2 minutes after a cold startup. This can happen sitting at idle or at low throttle settings when moving. The bike stalls like the you hit the kill switch. I've posted on this problem before.


The new information is that this time, when it happened, I realized the instrument display had gone entirely dead. No lights showing at all. In this case, no neutral, no ABS, nothing. I didn't look to see if the headlight was out.


Key off, key on and bike starts normally. No problem for the rest of the day. This has happened about 3 times, always just a couple of minutes after a cold startup.


I experimented with the kill switch and with the sidestand interlock. Nothing I can do to the bike on purpose causes all the lights on the dash to go out.


Is this a symptom of a failing HAL sensor? A bad ground?

Link to comment

Glen, another strange one.. Seems to be the day for those..


Difficult to tell a whole lot without knowing what is causing the stall,, be it the ign coil dropping power,, or the fuel pump,, or the Motronic..


It has the ear marks of a problem in the ignition switch or the wire going to or from it.. If you want to tell a little more hook a test light of some sort to the power into the ign coil.. That is direct ign switch controlled so if it loses power your problem is most likely in the ign switch or the wire running along the frame near the steering head (probably at or near the front wire tie—a somewhat common problem)..


Maybe try wiggling the heck out of the wire harness at the front wirer tie area..



Otherwise see if you can tell what fuses are losing power at the stall & maybe check ALL the power attachments like starter large nut & battery cables..




Link to comment

I have the same bike with the same problem. The problem started right after a 6K mile service combined with a canister removal, done by the dealer. The bike is at the dealer now and they are trying to get it to stall. I am told that after it stalls the tech will put the bike on the computer and should be able to read the fault code. I will know more on Tuesday.

Link to comment

Picked up the bike at the dealer today. They were never able to get it to stall.Dealer had bike on the computer and it showed no faults. They suggested that I let it warm up a little longer before riding. I started the bike and let it warm up for two minutes took off and it stalled within a mile, while comming to a stop. I returned to the dealer and explained the problem but I was unable to leave the bike with them at that time. On the ride home after about 15 minutes of riding in traffic it stalled again while pulling up to a light. I don't have to turn the key because the electrical system stays on. The bike fires right back up. I will contact the dealer tomorrow and hopefully get this problem resolved.

Link to comment

The electrical 'fault' is what concerned me. I only noticed it the last time that this happened, so I think our problems might be different.


I did have some stalling issues prior to this, that I believe were addressed by adjusting the TPS voltage and (in my case) removing the CCP module. What RPM is your bike idling at when it is warming up (not using the 'choke' / idle lever)?

Link to comment

The R1100R idles at about 800 rpm while warming, right after turninf off the choke. It idles at about 1000 rpm after it has warmed up. I spoke to the service rep at the dealer today and they are stumped. I am planning on riding the bike to the BMW rally in Cedar City, Utah next week. Perhaps taking the bike out on the open road for several days will help, it has mostly city mileage. I am still very concerned and would like to remedy this problem.

Link to comment

I checked the mileage today it is down to 38 mpg. I have been riding the bike in the higher rpm range after finding the Boxer engines seem to do better there. I have gotten up to 50 mpg in the past and I don't know if the degrease in mileage has anything to do with the stalling.

Link to comment

My bike idles at between 1100 and 1200 RPM. I think that your idle may be set too low. It is also possible that the passageways for the idle/air control screws (the big brass screws on the throttle bodies) are carboned up. These screws are used to control the idle speed.


My bike was idling low and not smooth. I did a throttle body sync and set the idle, but discovered that the right-hand screw was not doing anything (blocked with carbon). I removed the screws and used carb cleaner to clean the carbon out. Then I did a sync and found that my bike started stalling like yours. I came to the conclusion that it was now running too lean.


So I tested and found the TPS voltage was too low and set that up and did a sync. Now it runs and idles at around the ideal RPM, which is about 1150.


My intermittent stalling now seems to be electrical in nature and is probably not related to the preceding. A good place to start is having those screws turned out about 1 and a half turns from seated.

Link to comment


This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Create New...