My rear wheel moves

[David R]

I was checking out my new R1100Rt today. I could grab the wheel and move it a little. After a while I found its moving where the shaft mounts to the rear end. I tried to adjust the inner bolt by removing the lock nut and turning the internal hex, but it wouldn't budge.

 

Its a2000 with 101K miles on it.

 

Are there bushings in there or tapered roller bearings. I do not have a service manual yet.

 

I would say the play is .020 to .050" at the wheel. Not a lot, but still I can feel and see it.

 

I took off the rubber boot but could see nothing.

 

Whatamachine!

 

David

[T__]

David, that internal hex is part of a tapered pin that goes into a somewhat tapered needle bearing..

 

That bugger is Lock-Tited in using a very strong Red Loc-Tite.. You will to heat the hex part enough to soften the Loc-Tite (I use either a pin point torch or a small high temp heat gun),, careful the paint burns just above loosening temperature.. .. If you don’t heat the darn thing you will likely tear the alloy threads out of the swing arm..

 

For re-assembly most of us use the 242 Blue Loc-tite as it comes apart easier next time..

 

Twisty

 

[Selden]

For re-assembly most of us use the 242 Blue Loc-tite as it comes apart easier next time.

Thank you so much for confirmation. I always thought red Loctite was overkill for this application.

[David R]

Thank you Twisty!

 

Red locktite breaks loose at 600*f. I'll give it another shot tomorrow with a propane torch.

 

David

[T__]

David, a propane torch will probably screw your paint up.. You need something with a pin point flame or a small tipped high heat heat gun..

 

600° is w-a-y too hot.. That Loc-Tite should loosen at about 240°-250°f.. In any case don’t go over 250°f..

 

Twisty

 

 

 

[Jim Moore]

At 101K your paralever bearings are probably shot. Lot's of folks replace them with paralever bushings from a guy named Tom Cutter at the Rubber Chicken Racing Garage.

 

I wouldn't take it apart without having a new set to install. the bearing is probably going to fall apart in your hand. Mine did at 100K.

[David R]

Twisty, I'll just heat it till it loosens up. I have a smaller butane torch. No need in burning the paint. A moving rear wheel makes me uncomfortable. My /6 had a loose rear wheel bearing when I bought it and could feel it.

 

Jim, I'll look into the bushings.

 

Thanks folks.

 

David

 

Had the bike one whole day. Burned a full tank of gas, just starting to get the hang of the thing. Now I don't land on the tank every time I hit the brakes.

 

I will post results later.

[PETDOC]

Best write up of replacing rear paralever bearings with JL bushings ever produced: http://www.rvbprecision.com/motorcycles/bmw-pivot-bearing-replacement.html

Only addition is Loctite 270 and 271 are same except color (green vs red) and availability and cost. Home Depot has 271 for about $6.00

[NonComp]

I use a household heat gun (black and decker) with a concentrator nozzle on it. Heat to about 100 degrees C (212 F). That's about 15 minutes of continuous heating with a heat gun, give or take. Never had a problems scorching the paint. A surface-read thermometer-gun can confirm the temperature.

 

Don't rush it. You can strip out the threads in the casting.

[David R]

I heated it with a small propane torch to 200*f using my exotherm thermometer. It turned easy enough. It only had to go one and a half hex (Less than 1/4 turn) to take out all the slop. This was just to get me to the end of the season. I marked it with paint marker so I can look at it and see if it moves. I am confident its going to be fine.

 

I think its cool I had the 30mm socket.

 

Thanks for the link, I am on lunch so I will have to read it later.

 

Ah yes... Success! Drove it home for lunch, I can't feel it any more. Home is 20 miles each way

 

Thanks a bunch.

 

I will have more questions

Love the bike.

[NonComp]

When you do get to doing a more permanent repair, make sure that you clean out the old locktite from the threads before adding new. Acetone works (be careful around the paint). It apparently crystalizes when heated. I found a toothbrush (my wifes... and a dental pic help to clear the threads.

[David R]

You guys are the balls. I put 75 or so miles on it and wiggled the wheel. Making sure the bearing had not failed. I see what you mean about the bushing. The needles are moving back and forth in the same place just like a U joint. Not spinning like a bearing is supposed to. Its still tight, no clicking or anything else. I adjusted it until the play was just barely gone. I read the link and I will get the bushing.

 

Its been almost 400 miles and I am getting the hang of shifting it. Its a lot like my /6. Don't pull the clutch all the way in. Some times I go through the gears perfect then there are other times....

 

Thanks again.

David

[ESokoloff]

Drove it home for lunch,........ Home is 20 miles each way

 

 

Hey, looks like we got us another nut job

 

Welcome Dave

[David R]

Drove it home for lunch,........ Home is 20 miles each way

 

 

Hey, looks like we got us another nut job

 

Welcome Dave

 

I just bought the bike. The second day I had it, I got up at 5 and rode it to work the long way. My shop opens at 8.

 

Unfortunately the name fits.....

 

Thanks for the welcome.

 

Nut Job