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RT1150P Shaft noise


Mark G

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I have recently purchased an 02 rtp 1150. Bike looks, runs and handles great. However, at start up the bike is rough, practically stalls until I turn up the high idle switch up.

 

There also appears to be some noise clanging/banging from the shaft housing which will quiet right down when I engage the clutch and will go away completely when the bike is fully warmed up. Is this normal?

 

I have full synthetic throughout the bike. Would synthetic somehow have a lower viscosity compared to regular lubricting oil??

 

Do the clutch plates typically bounce around until engaged?

 

Is the transmission shaft typically disengaged from thh tranny and bounce around in the housing? I know the rear drive was rebuilt and the pinion seal was repaired.

 

I also would like to know if it's a good idea to down shift when coming to a stop with a shft driven bike. I am used to chain driven...

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Hi Mark, welcome to the forum.

 

Not idling without the fast idle on when warm is not normal. Could be a whole host of issues, but a good tune up of plugs, valves adjustment and TB sync is a good place to start.

 

Are you sure the clanging is coming from the drive shaft/ If the rear wheel is not rotating, the drive shaft is not rotating. More likely this is gear dogs in the tranny rattling which is fairly normal and harmless.

 

You will get differing opinions on downshifting to use engine braking to slow down, but my opinion is – engine for going faster, brakes for are for going slower.

 

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Thanks for replying so quickly Ken. Once this bike warms up all the noises go away as does the need for high idler at start. I will take the advice though and tune it up and the 2 cent on downshifting. I have always used the motor to slow me down but it feels diferent with a shaft driven bike.

 

As for the noise, i put my ear up to the shaft housing, and souds like its spinnig in there.

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I think when you say the clutch is "engaged" that you mean "disengaged". e.g: When the clutch is pulled in, it is disengaged.

There is nothing spinning in the rear wheel housing if the back wheel is not turning. The sound is likely to be the transmission and the rattling noise is common. It's likely only the lash in the drive dogs.

As for the rough idle when cold, try a valve adjustment and throttle sync.

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I have recently purchased an 02 rtp 1150. Bike looks, runs and handles great. However, at start up the bike is rough, practically stalls until I turn up the high idle switch up.

 

There also appears to be some noise clanging/banging from the shaft housing which will quiet right down when I engage the clutch and will go away completely when the bike is fully warmed up. Is this normal?

 

I have full synthetic throughout the bike. Would synthetic somehow have a lower viscosity compared to regular lubricting oil??

 

Do the clutch plates typically bounce around until engaged?

 

Is the transmission shaft typically disengaged from thh tranny and bounce around in the housing? I know the rear drive was rebuilt and the pinion seal was repaired.

 

I also would like to know if it's a good idea to down shift when coming to a stop with a shft driven bike. I am used to chain driven...

 

Mark, I have seen some 1150’s start like yours does.. Seems to be a few different reasons for the occurrence..

So give us some more info on the problem & maybe we can help you solve it..

 

First off,, do you get any black smoke out of the muffler RIGHT AFTER the start? (if so suspect a dripping fuel injector)

 

Do you get any woosh out of the gas tank when opening the cap after a long ride?

 

Do you get a loud clacking noise from the L/H side right after a start up that goes away quickly?

 

Do you smell any gasoline fumes after you park the bike?

 

Does it make any difference if you park the bike on the side stand or the center stand?

 

One thing to try is not using the fast idle lever but try turning the key on for about 3 seconds,, then turning it off for 3 seconds,, then turning it on for 3 seconds again,, then off for 3 seconds again.. Then turn it on & start the bike.. If it starts better & stays running you might suspect air bubbles in the fuel line..

 

On your knocking issue: If it is there at hot idle with the clutch lever released but goes away with the clutch lever pulled in that is pretty normal neutral gear rattle (a lot of BMW’s do that)..

 

Twisty

 

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Thanks for the replies guys.

 

First off,, do you get any black smoke out of the muffler RIGHT AFTER the start? (if so suspect a dripping fuel injector). No smoke, no leaks.

 

Do you get any woosh out of the gas tank when opening the cap after a long ride? No noise out of the gas tank that I have noticed.

 

Do you get a loud clacking noise from the L/H side right after a start up that goes away quickly? I thought about this but it's distinctly comng from the right side. I believe in the transmission but when I stick my ear on the shaft housing, I hear some noise. Probably is in the transmission.

 

Do you smell any gasoline fumes after you park the bike? Only in my garage

 

Does it make any difference if you park the bike on the side stand or the center stand? I had been parking the bike on the side stand but it seemed more stubborn at start up so I have been pparking it on the center stand lately. I will check it this week.

 

One thing to try is not using the fast idle lever but try turning the key on for about 3 seconds,, then turning it off for 3 seconds,, then turning it on for 3 seconds again,, then off for 3 seconds again.. Then turn it on & start the bike.. If it starts better & stays running you might suspect air bubbles in the fuel line..

 

On your knocking issue: If it is there at hot idle with the clutch lever released but goes away with the clutch lever pulled in that is pretty normal neutral gear rattle (a lot of BMW’s do that)...it usually ony at start up and it goes away after fluids cycle for a few minutes.

 

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I tried the ignition sequenced on/off, didn't help, still has a rough and noisey cold start idle.

 

It was parked on the side stand for two days and today i noticed a nice puff of blue exhaust shoot out of the muffler. i suppose i will just take it to Bobs BMW for some expensive service or could it be spark plugs? Would puling the fuse for the fuel injection reset anything?

 

This bike rides so nice after i get the gremlins out of the way!!!

 

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Clip~ Would puling the fuse for the fuel injection reset anything?

 

 

Mark, pulling the Motronic fuse will cause the 2.4 (1150) to reset the TPS learn.. That should have nothing to do with your starting problem as it (the TPS) is used for throttle movement fueling & more off idle fueling duties.. If it runs good after started & idles OK then your TPS is probably OK.. The TPS will also self learn after being ridden far enough so after a while it will find the TPS high/low threshold by itself..

 

 

With the oil smoke on hot start it could very well be the L/H cylinder taking in some oil when hot parked on the side stand,, then that oil either upping the compression on that side during starting,, or the oil is igniting with the gasoline (engine oil has a very low octane rating )..

 

Maybe try removing the L/H spark plug after it sits on the side stand,, then cranking the engine to see if an oil mist comes out.. (remove the Motronic fuse first so the R/H side doesn’t fire on cranking).. That will also stop the spark so the coil is protected & stop the injector squirt on cranking..

 

Also,, maybe try placing the motorcycle on the center stand right after hot shut down for about 5 minutes,, then putting on the side stand for the remainder of the time parked .. If your starting noise goes way possibly suspect the L/H cylinder is oiling on hot soak side stand parking..

 

Twisty

 

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